New camera: Canon 20D?

Tannin

Storage? I am Storage!
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More generally, most of the things I want to take pictures of only really work in daylight - or, in the worst case, with flash, an area I have yet to explore, and probably won't for quite some time, as I have so much else to learn.

My 100-400 lives on the camera almost all the time as I can't abide seeing a rare bird and not being ready to take a shot of it. Every time I put the other lens on I feel a bit nervous.

Besides, I haven't figured out a good way of carrying all the gear yet. Well, OK, I have figured it out, but I haven't gone out and bought the raw materials and persuaded Belinda to sew them up for me. What I want is a sort of open holster that I can drop the pointy end of the 100-400 into and have the camera body sit on my right hip with the lens pointing down, lying along my thigh. Then, if desired, I can have scope and tripod over my right shoulder (Belinda made me a pair of shoulder pockets, each attached to a heavy cotton shirt, each with room to slide in a rectagular bit of padding - I use ordinary carpet turned upside down - and slide it out again for washing.), 100-400 on my hip, and third camera on my left hip where I can reach it right-handed.

Sounds ridiculous? Well, apart from the 100-400, that's what I've been doing for years. It works really well. At present I'm just hanging the Canon off a shoulder strap, but that's no good when you have a scope and tripod to carry as well- it swings around and gets in the road and bangs into things.

Anyway, at present I only have one tripod mounting plate, which the scope uses, so I'll have to get another one (they are quick release) and mount that on the 100-400. Plus figure out a way of carrying the Swarovski when I have the Canon on the tripod. (Use the same hip holster? Should work if I can figure a way to stop it sliding all the way out and falling down.)

My tripod, by the way, is a Manfrotto 190 NAT-3, which is OK but a little too flexible for my taste. I've been meaning to get a carbon fibre one for quite a while now. (Big $ there.) Probably another Manfrotto, though I might look at Gitzo if I can get used to the different leg lock arrangements.

My head is the faithful old Manfrotto 501. Most top photographers seem to be mad about ball heads, but I've never tried one. I don't like the idea of not having a tilt-pan handle. With the 501, which is actually a video head, I like to do it up quite tight and use quite a lot of force to pan/tilt. That way, I don't have to adjust anything. It's firm enough to shoot with (at my ~2000mm effective focal length) without any further action on my part, and generally without droop. But, of course, it is fairly slow to pan/tilt when it's set that stiff. This doesn't usually matter, as your field of view with the digicam setup is only one or two degrees, so your typical panning movement to follow a bird along a perch or frame a shot is in the <1 degree to ~15 degree range anyway, so it doesn't slow you up as much as a losen head, pan, tighten head routine would. (Probably - haven't ever tried it with a Wimberley or etc.) Whether all this will still apply to the DSLR or not, I have yet to discover.
 

Handruin

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Sounds like I don't have any need for concern with the hotspots. Given I've never seen so many in a digital camera before cause some panic. I don't remember seeing any in my sony 5MP. I do plan to take night photography, so I hope these pixels won't cause me a ton of problems. I wasn't aware of the long exposure noise reduction. I'm still picking up new things from the manual (yes I've read it through several times learning piece by piece). I just found out how much better the flash exposure adjustment button (*) helps when you need to use the built-in flash.

Sorry for the RAW uploads. I did that so you had a cleaner image to examine than a lossy jpg.

Speaking of carrying gear, I ended up ordering a lowepro micro trekkar back pack. I took a chance on it because there is a severe lack of camera stores within 60 miles of where I live. So far the bag is nice and will meet my needs as I buy new lenses. It has some degree of all weather protection for when I'm hiking and all the zippers are rubber covered to protect the gear. I'll have more to say about it once I have to walk around for hours with the gear on my back. Down the road I'd like to get a hard travel case to store the gear on longer trips. It's probably a worthy investment even at this point.

Tannin, please take a picture if you get a holster for your 100-400. That's a neat idea, but I can't image it being comfortable to carry. I'd be afraid I'd spack it into things when walking around in the woods.

Lunar, I also took your recommendation and bought a HOYA super HMC pro 1 UV filter after reading other reviews on it. The glass is much thinner (1mm I think?) and it looks very clear and flat. I can notice a slight visual difference between the two when they are not attached to the lens. The HOYA looks cleaner/clearer possibly due to the reduced thickness. Hopefully that makes for a decent improvement when I'm using a filter.

Now my eyes are looking at a new lens. I've been enjoying some of the images coming from the 20D with a Canon 135mm F/2.0 L prime lens. It's a bit close for portrait use, but people suggest it as a good lens for that and sporting/action events. The bokeh is also very nice from the pictures I've seen. Buying this lens does put my into a weird range. 17-85 + 135 leaves me with a gap. But at least this lens would work on better bodies, no? I've seen nothing but positive reviews for this lens, some claiming it's one of the best they've owned and it's quite usable at F2.0. Maybe it's just a huge following trend and I need to be set straight. Is this lens really that good? I've liked what I've seen so far.
 

LunarMist

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The 135/2 is a truly excellent lens, but has limited utility. I would not recommend it for a novice shooting with 1.6x bodies. On a 35mm body it is a portrait "head shot" lens. On a 1.6x body it is too long for most portraits, but useful for some low-light sports. If you are looking for the next lens up the zoom range, consider the 70-200/2.8 IS or 70-200/4. The 70-200/2.8 IS is a fine lens with a lot of versatility and fine image quality. The drawbacks are size, weight and cost. The 70-200/4 is optically at least as nice as the 70-200/2.8 IS, but lacks the IS. However, it is much smaller and lighter in weight, not to mention only 1/3 of the cost. Many people have both the 70-200/2.8 IS and the 70-200/4 for different purposes. :)
 

LunarMist

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Tony,

Most of the pros in the US that need to work with both hands free prefer the Kinesis belt systems. I don't care for that stuff, but I do use the Kinesis long lens bag for the 500/4 IS and of course their beanbags are the best. ;)
 

Tannin

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Thanks Lunar. Funny you should mention Kinesis, I stumbled across a link to their site elsewhere just yesterday, and thought that they seemed good. Alas, I don't see the sort of thing I have in mind. But I could start with the belt and get together with Belinda to make the other bit.

I've thought about it a bit more, and decided that the best idea would be to have a closed-bottom tube, open at the top, but with a velcro flap that can usually be left open for fast access. That way I can slip either the 100-400L or the ATS-80HD into it, depending on which one I'm using at the time. (One on the tripod, the other in the tube.)

Bumping into things isn't really an issue. Nor is padding. I already have to be careful where I walk because (a) I can't afford to make unexpected noises and scare the birds, and (b) I'm carryng all that other gear. I just have to be careful. But I'm used to that.

Enough about bags!

Doug, the 135mm seems rather long for the uses you mention. Remember that a lot of the people you see posting about it will be using it either full frame or on a 1.3 crop 1D. For you (or me) the 135mm works out to a 216mm equivalent. If you want a longish prime, why not get a 100mm macro lens? Not quite as fast but still OK at f2.8, half the price, and much more versatile. (You can use it for no macro subjects as well.) That works out to 160mm in 35mm equivalent terms.


The serious decision I'm pondering at present is what camera to buy. (Yes. Seriously.)

I'd owned the 20D for less than a week before I started feeling dissatisfied with my Canon & Nikon P&S cameras so far as general-purpose photography goes. I bought the 20D excllusively for middle-distance bird work, but it's so much better in speed, in flexibility, and in picture quality that I'm using it for everything now. (Except digiscoping, of course.)

I already decided weeks ago that I'd get a second SLR. I initially assumed another 20D. The 350D would probably do in many ways, but the cost difference is not that great and the last thing I need is yet another different damn set of batteries to charge. My in-car charging rig is starting to look like a Christmas Tree!

Now I'm wondering if I can force myself to hold out a few more months, and see what Canon replace the 20D with. If it offers real and tangible benefits for me, I'll go with that. If it is one of those upgrades that doesn't do any of the things that *I* need better, just finctions that do not apply, then I'll count on getting a second 20D at an old-model discount.

Tea wants a 10-22 lens, but I've told her she will have to wait until we have a camera to put it on first!

PS: still trying to decide on a 1.4x teleconverter. I've read 18 million different points of view: Canon, Tamron, Kenko all have their fans. At the moment I'm leaning Canon and to hell with the extra money. But will I really be able to see a difference? Not sure.
 

LunarMist

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Were you plannning to use the 1.4x on the 100-400? The 100-400 is weakest at the long end and a TC makes it unacceptable IMO. Only the 1-series bodies focus at smaller than f/5.6, so AF would be lost. Taping the contacts or using an off-brand TC will allow the 20D to attempt AF, but it will only work in contrasty light and will be erratic for the most part. The 1.4x does fairly well on the 70-200 zooms, and of course very well on fast long tele primes which are designed for TCs.
 

Tannin

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Well, sooner or later, I'll spring for a big prime. 500mm I guess. But it would be foolish to buy a TC on the strength of that. Meanwhile there are times when I need more reach, and there doesn't seem to be a lot of choice - it's TC or go without. (OK, I could afford a 50-500 Sigma this year, which would still autofocus, but is only 70-odd mm longer and doesn't have IS. Doesn't seem a lot of point when I have the 100-400L already.)

I'm assuming that a 1.4TC + 100-400L will still give me better results than I can get by poking a $200 point and shoot down a telescope. I'm also assuming that I'll need perfect light so I can get ~1000th at 400 ISO at ~F/8. here in Australia, at least in the summer months, that sort of light is not uncommon.

But the TC is not a major priority. Maybe I'll leave it for a while until I get my A95 back (it's being repaired) and do some more digiscoping. I'm feeling that the scope pictures leave something to be desired at present, but then I'm using the wonky old Coolpix and I know the A95 is much better, so perhaps it would be wise to get that back first and do some back-to-back shooting. Nothing has the reach of a good digiscoping rig. A Sigma 800 with stacked teleconverters goes more than half way, but that's not on my radar.
 

LunarMist

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Serious birders end up with a 600/4 sooner or later. ;) The 600/4 IS is too heavy for me, so I use a 500/4 IS. However, I don't care much for birds unless they are large and/or easy targets like penguins, ostriches, etc.
 

Handruin

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Here's another cat picture (yes, I know I need to change it up a bit), but with a small glimpse of me. Tannin, I've finally started using my macro lens.

EyeSeeMe

F/3.5
1sec
ISO 100
100mm Macro
mirror lockup
 
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