SLR Thread

Stereodude

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So, uh... we need a thread for the non digital variety... Yeah, that's it! :D

Here are the results of shooting Kodak T-MAX 100 Professional (not to be confused with the newer and similarly named Kodak Professional T-MAX 100) that expired more than 11 years ago and was not kept in a fridge or freezer. I shot and developed this roll yesterday after it sat unused with my SLR stuff for more than a decade.









Oh, and I used my Canon EOS-3, developed in D76, and scanned with Nikon Coolscan 5000ED.
 

LunarMist

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Why, for the viewfinder? Doesn't the EOS 3 accept all the 1 series screens if indeed that is the reason?
 

P5-133XL

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If your goal is manual focusing, why not simply get an Ec-B manual focus screen rather than an entire camera for that purpose. The Ec-B works with an EOS-3.

The other reason for getting the EF-M, that I can see, would be if you were trying to collect all the EOS system camera's.
 

LunarMist

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Oh no. Merc will blow a fuse at Mark's last sentence. :lol:
 

ddrueding

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I would bet that it is a lighter camera, considering it not only forgoes the auto focus system, but the flash and LCD as well...
 

Stereodude

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I wanted it for kicks mostly. I know the screen won't work in the EOS-3, but I think it will work in the Elan series.
 

Stereodude

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I picked up my Elan 7N yesterday from work where it was in a box waiting for me. The build quality / fit and finish doesn't seem quite as good as the other Made in Japan Canon's I've used, but I guess that's to be expected from a Made in Taiwan model. Still, it seems to be a much better camera than my Elan IIe.

I also picked up the 20 rolls of slightly expired Kodak Professional T-MAX P3200 film that's now in my freezer chillin'. My 2nd EOS-3 should arrive on Tuesday, and I'm not sure where the EF-M is yet. I don't anticipate it will arrive too quickly from the UK. :crap:

I'm jumping back into film shooting head first. :rambo:
 

Stereodude

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Woah, you are going crazy! I stayed out of photography until digital was "good enough" to avoid that stuff.
I guess I'm making up for the fact that my budget wasn't up to my tastes back in the day. Now I've got the budget and the gear is a whole lot cheaper (used). :geek:


Mmm... Delicious film grain... :rabbit:
 

LunarMist

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Instead of so many different low-end bodies, why not pick up a 1v? A few years back when I moved from Nikon to Casnon I had two EOS 3 and one 1vHS bodies. The PB-E2 is less necessary on the EOS 3 though, because it has a better advance rate without the booster. It's nice to have the option and the booster could be switched between bodies.

I'm so glad to have left scanning in the past.:) 135 was not too bad, but 120 megapixel 6x9 scans were so brutal ~7 years ago. The computers were too slow, not to mention the scanner itself.
 

Stereodude

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I'm not really interested in the 1V. It's still too much $$$ and the AF system would be a bit gimped with most of my lenses. I'm don't really plan to use my Elan IIe any more, so that will leave me with two EOS-3's and the Elan 7N. This way I can keep a few different film speeds on tap. :sunny:
 

LunarMist

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I'm not really interested in the 1V. It's still too much $$$ and the AF system would be a bit gimped with most of my lenses.

What does that mean? 1v, EOS 3, 1D and others all have the same basic AF sensor. 1v is a bit faster than the 3, primarily for tracking, but otherwise I did not notice differences.
 

Stereodude

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What does that mean? 1v, EOS 3, 1D and others all have the same basic AF sensor. 1v is a bit faster than the 3, primarily for tracking, but otherwise I did not notice differences.
Sorry, I made a mistake earlier. The earlier EOS 1's had a gimped AF system if you use slow glass. The EOS 1N had only 1 cross point in the center which dropped to normal precision horizontal lines only with glass slower than F2.8.

However, the EOS-3 and 1V have 6 normal precision cross type AF points. The center one is a high precision cross type. Unfortunately, if your lens f-stop is slower than F2.8, 6 of the 7 revert to standard horizontal line AF sensors leaving you with only one. If your lens is slower than F4.0 the remaining center high precision AF point reverts to a standard precision AF horizontal lines only sensor.

According to what I read, the Elan 7N's center AF point is a standard precision cross type for lenses F5.6 and faster. It doesn't have a high precision mode.
 

LunarMist

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Don't get hung up on the specs. You'd think that the cheaper Canons like the 50D and 5D II have good AF based on paper, but they don't compare to 1D series most of the time. 1D III has a whole other AF issue, but you know about that.
 

Stereodude

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I'm not too hung up on the specs. It mostly came down to the fact that I don't want to spend $500+ on a used 1V. I got my EOS-3's (each with a PB-E2 grip) for less than $500 combined. The Elan 7N was only $75 shipped.
 

Stereodude

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My Canon EF-M arrived today. It's in really good shape too. It certainly is an interesting camera. I have no idea if I will actually use it, but it's neat.
 

Stereodude

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Well, my 2nd EOS-3 + PB-E2 came today. The ebay seller used the word "Flawless" to describe it. From what I've seen so far that was an understatement. I don't see anything on or in the camera that would indicate that it's even ever been used. There isn't the slightest wear indication anywhere on it. Heck, I've bought things new that weren't this nice straight out of the package. 8)
 

Stereodude

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Wow, that is a very small camera. I bet it is light, too.
It is light, but that's not necessarily a selling point IMHO. A polycarbonate len mount isn't exactly the most durable thing in the world. ;-) Sometimes a little extra weight and some metal can be a good thing.
 

Stereodude

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So, I had to partially take part of my newly acquired used Elan 7N tonight to repair the latch for the door. It looks like it was dropped on an upper corner (there's a slight flat spot in the finish) and part of the latch mechanism was broken and jamming the latch. This cause the latch to only close about halfway. This caused the camera to think the back was opened and then closed with new film loaded if you bumped the slider because it was stuck at the halfway point where the switch's contact is barely made.

Of course that's how I discovered the problem. I was changing lenses and when I turned the camera back on it tried to load the film like I had just loaded a new roll of film and then displayed "1" on the counter. Thankfully I was already up to frame 33, so I just tossed in the towell rewound the roll, and started troubleshooting.

Anyhow, I used superglue to glue the broken piece back onto the body, and then put it all back together. Now the latch moves all the way like it should. :eek:wneddnce:

I got the body pretty cheap, so I'm not going to cry over it, but it's not exactly the 9+/10 that the seller portrayed. :rant:
 

Howell

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It is light, but that's not necessarily a selling point IMHO. A polycarbonate len mount isn't exactly the most durable thing in the world. ;-) Sometimes a little extra weight and some metal can be a good thing.

It certainly changes the balance point.
 
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