Tannin
Storage? I am Storage!
Some of you might have noticed that I've been off the air these last couple of days. I thought I'd tell you all why.
Belinda and I left Ballarat after work on Friday and drove about 300 kilometres more or less east and arrived in Benalla just before 10 o'clock. Most of the others were camping or driving up from Melbourne on the Saturday morning, but we decided to do out trip in luxury style, and checked into the first motel we found open.
Benalla isn't marked on that map, but you can see Ballarat to the west of Melbourne. Now look about that same distance north-east of Melbourne and you will see Mansfield and Wangaratta. Benalla is near Wangaratta.
The next morning we were up early (early by my standards anyway) and at the Benalla Post Office to meet the crew at 9:00. After a little of the usual "is everybody here" stuff (a very little - these guys are nothing if not organised) we set off in convoy. We drove for 15 minutes or so through typical degraded box ironbark country.
This is one of the moderately fertile parts of Australia: in the natural state it was open forest, criss-crossed with wild rivers. In the summer they were just languid, slow-flowing streams; in the winter and the spring, mighty rivers taking the rain that blows up from the Southern Ocean to fall on the Great Dividing Range on the first part of its long, slow journey to the sea. The Broken River, for example, flows 500-odd kilometres from the Mansfield area up north through Benalla (away from the coast) to meet the Murray near Woodonga, then via the Murray another fifteen hundred kilometres or more to finally reach the sea in South Australia.
(On the map above, you can see where the Murray has its outlet, more-or-less under the "S" in "South Australia". You can trace its course from the orange line along the Victoria - New South Wales border. As a matter of interest, at almost 4000 kilometers, the Murray-Darling system is the third longest navigable river in the world and drains 14 percent of the continent - that is quite astonishing when you remember how flat this place is: with the highest mountain in Australia a mere 7000 feet and very few places being more than 1000 ft up, it's a long, long way for a river to flow. At Wodonga, the Murray is just 531ft above sea level - and it has 2100 kilometres still to go! The headwaters of the Darling reach right up into Queensland. Alas, on a volumetric flow basis, the Murray wouldn't rank in the top 1000 - we only think it's a big river because this place is so dry. On any other continent it would barely be worth thinking about.)
"Box ironbark country" is called that because of the two dominant species of eucalypt that grow there: Box on the lower, more fertile parts, Ironbark on the hills and higher country. Both are magnificient trees when they are healthy, and they form a dry, open forest, with many, many other species growing in between and underneath them to form a rich and varied habitat. Both are very drought-tolerant, as they need to be, for apart from the riverbanks where the River Red Gums grow, they must depend on rain and though the typical rainfall is about 25 inches a year, nearly all of that is in the winter months. Summers are long and hot and often very dry.
Once you take the trees away, everything changes: rainfall decreases (because you are changing the microclimate), runoff becomes more rapid (because there are no trees to hold the water in the soil and protect it from the sun), erosion increases dramatically and carries away the thin layer of fertile topsoil (because there are no trees to hold the soil together), and on the flatter parts (like most of the Benalla district) the water table rises (because there are no large trees to drain the sub-soil).
It is this last factor which is perhaps the worst of all. On first sight, it sounds absurd. How can more water in the soil be a problem? Simply, because ground water has got where it is by percolating slowly through the soils and rocks, and on the way it disolves all sorts of minerals, in particular, salt. And nothing grows in salty water. Once the water table has risen, you can no longer plant new trees to lower it, because they won't drink salty water. The bigger they get, the deeper their roots go, and the worse their health becomes. Before too long, they die.
The only way to deal with salinity is to replant trees on the higher places (well above the water table) so that they can hold the rainfall in with their root systems and allow it to gradually percolate out through the topsoil into rivers and streams.
Salinity is a terrible problem in many parts of Australia. Vast tracts of once productive agricultural land are already dead, and much larger tracts are seriously threatened. We drove through several saline areas on the way to Benalla but, thus far, salinity does not seem to be the huge problem there that it is in other parts.
But back to box ironbark country. Here is a typical bit of it - after clearing, of course, with just the odd tree left standing to provide shelter for livestock. That's my sister in the foreground. I'll explain what she is doing there and what she is carrying in a little while.
Now look a little more closely. Look at the trees. See how many of the growing tips are scraggly and dead? That's called "die-back" and it's what a tree does when it's severely stressed. All seems green and healthy on first sight, but don't forget it's the middle of winter here, which is our rainy season, and although the last few years have not been good ones, they have not been terrible ones either. Aside from all the factors I mentioned above, the standing trees are having to cope with soil compaction from stock (native wildlife does not compress the soil and squeeze the air out of it the way that sheep and cattle do, and our soils are far older and more fragile than most norther hemisphere ones). I'm not sure how important this last factor is - probably insignificant compared to loss of topsoil from wind and rain erosion. Almost everywhere we went the trees were clearly stressed. We Australians have become used to this, it seems; we tend to think of native forest as scraggly, untidy stuff, much less attractive than the lush green rows of oaks and beech and conifer that we see on TV shows anout northern forests. But, of course, a great deal of the scraggly, down-at-heel look that we associate with Australian trees is simply that so many of the trees we see are unhealthy ones, grimly holding on to life and ever so slowly dying.
Belinda and I left Ballarat after work on Friday and drove about 300 kilometres more or less east and arrived in Benalla just before 10 o'clock. Most of the others were camping or driving up from Melbourne on the Saturday morning, but we decided to do out trip in luxury style, and checked into the first motel we found open.
Benalla isn't marked on that map, but you can see Ballarat to the west of Melbourne. Now look about that same distance north-east of Melbourne and you will see Mansfield and Wangaratta. Benalla is near Wangaratta.
The next morning we were up early (early by my standards anyway) and at the Benalla Post Office to meet the crew at 9:00. After a little of the usual "is everybody here" stuff (a very little - these guys are nothing if not organised) we set off in convoy. We drove for 15 minutes or so through typical degraded box ironbark country.
This is one of the moderately fertile parts of Australia: in the natural state it was open forest, criss-crossed with wild rivers. In the summer they were just languid, slow-flowing streams; in the winter and the spring, mighty rivers taking the rain that blows up from the Southern Ocean to fall on the Great Dividing Range on the first part of its long, slow journey to the sea. The Broken River, for example, flows 500-odd kilometres from the Mansfield area up north through Benalla (away from the coast) to meet the Murray near Woodonga, then via the Murray another fifteen hundred kilometres or more to finally reach the sea in South Australia.
(On the map above, you can see where the Murray has its outlet, more-or-less under the "S" in "South Australia". You can trace its course from the orange line along the Victoria - New South Wales border. As a matter of interest, at almost 4000 kilometers, the Murray-Darling system is the third longest navigable river in the world and drains 14 percent of the continent - that is quite astonishing when you remember how flat this place is: with the highest mountain in Australia a mere 7000 feet and very few places being more than 1000 ft up, it's a long, long way for a river to flow. At Wodonga, the Murray is just 531ft above sea level - and it has 2100 kilometres still to go! The headwaters of the Darling reach right up into Queensland. Alas, on a volumetric flow basis, the Murray wouldn't rank in the top 1000 - we only think it's a big river because this place is so dry. On any other continent it would barely be worth thinking about.)
"Box ironbark country" is called that because of the two dominant species of eucalypt that grow there: Box on the lower, more fertile parts, Ironbark on the hills and higher country. Both are magnificient trees when they are healthy, and they form a dry, open forest, with many, many other species growing in between and underneath them to form a rich and varied habitat. Both are very drought-tolerant, as they need to be, for apart from the riverbanks where the River Red Gums grow, they must depend on rain and though the typical rainfall is about 25 inches a year, nearly all of that is in the winter months. Summers are long and hot and often very dry.
Once you take the trees away, everything changes: rainfall decreases (because you are changing the microclimate), runoff becomes more rapid (because there are no trees to hold the water in the soil and protect it from the sun), erosion increases dramatically and carries away the thin layer of fertile topsoil (because there are no trees to hold the soil together), and on the flatter parts (like most of the Benalla district) the water table rises (because there are no large trees to drain the sub-soil).
It is this last factor which is perhaps the worst of all. On first sight, it sounds absurd. How can more water in the soil be a problem? Simply, because ground water has got where it is by percolating slowly through the soils and rocks, and on the way it disolves all sorts of minerals, in particular, salt. And nothing grows in salty water. Once the water table has risen, you can no longer plant new trees to lower it, because they won't drink salty water. The bigger they get, the deeper their roots go, and the worse their health becomes. Before too long, they die.
The only way to deal with salinity is to replant trees on the higher places (well above the water table) so that they can hold the rainfall in with their root systems and allow it to gradually percolate out through the topsoil into rivers and streams.
Salinity is a terrible problem in many parts of Australia. Vast tracts of once productive agricultural land are already dead, and much larger tracts are seriously threatened. We drove through several saline areas on the way to Benalla but, thus far, salinity does not seem to be the huge problem there that it is in other parts.
But back to box ironbark country. Here is a typical bit of it - after clearing, of course, with just the odd tree left standing to provide shelter for livestock. That's my sister in the foreground. I'll explain what she is doing there and what she is carrying in a little while.
Now look a little more closely. Look at the trees. See how many of the growing tips are scraggly and dead? That's called "die-back" and it's what a tree does when it's severely stressed. All seems green and healthy on first sight, but don't forget it's the middle of winter here, which is our rainy season, and although the last few years have not been good ones, they have not been terrible ones either. Aside from all the factors I mentioned above, the standing trees are having to cope with soil compaction from stock (native wildlife does not compress the soil and squeeze the air out of it the way that sheep and cattle do, and our soils are far older and more fragile than most norther hemisphere ones). I'm not sure how important this last factor is - probably insignificant compared to loss of topsoil from wind and rain erosion. Almost everywhere we went the trees were clearly stressed. We Australians have become used to this, it seems; we tend to think of native forest as scraggly, untidy stuff, much less attractive than the lush green rows of oaks and beech and conifer that we see on TV shows anout northern forests. But, of course, a great deal of the scraggly, down-at-heel look that we associate with Australian trees is simply that so many of the trees we see are unhealthy ones, grimly holding on to life and ever so slowly dying.