Billabong Pro Tahiti tomorrow, HUGE waves

LunarMist

I can't believe I'm a Fixture
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Cool. I thought it was always sunny in Tahitai. :)

I wonder how they would do in Deleware.
 

Santilli

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Maybe a bit weird, but there are a lot of slabs, maybe not as heavy as that one, that people tow into that are freezing cold. Dungeons South Africa comes to mind, as does Mavericks, and a few other spots around here.
 

Santilli

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On again today. Looks like the finals will go. Kelly Slater is going again.
 

Santilli

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Swell has made it to Hawaii. It's diminished to a 8 foot swell, but, it has the longest duration I've ever seen in a Hawaii south swell, 21 seconds. Record up till now, was 17 sec. Here's Ala Moana Bowls.
It usually is WAY inside this buoy, not outside it:
http://www.surfline.com/surf-report/south-shore-oahu-hdcam_4761/

Probably the best surfers on the south shore, that don't travel, and, they can't catch the sets. Boards are too short, swell is so long, it's moving very fast, and the waves are both thick, fast, and big.
Last time I saw a swell this size I surfed Outside Castles with Brian Kaulana. He had a long board, I had a huge north shore gun. Wave was kind of like Giant Wikiki, in that it was huge, long, but not all that
powerful. Problem with 17 second swells is sets are usually around 15 minutes apart. Makes for a very crowded takeoff zone.
 

LunarMist

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The same wave goes all the way to Hawaii? Was there an earthquake?
 

Santilli

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Here is the same swell:

http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/best-of-the-web-ala-moana_58875/#

Yes, they make it to Hawaii. The fun part is the actual swell is focused on mainland South America.

Hope you can see this:
http://www.surfline.com/surfline/lola/spaallhgtanim.jsp

The irony is that "huge" swell that hit Hawaii was the very fringe of the swell that nailed Tahiti, on it's way to Chile and Peru. Once a swell is formed, it's very hard to stop. It may hit islands, but, it does have parts of the swell that goes around them. As the swells start, they are very intense, short duration. They sort of spread out like a shotgun blast as they move across the ocean.

David is right, in that a 17 second swell is traveling 25 miles an hour across the Pacific.
I don't know how fast a 21-22 second swell is moving, but, it's faster by a large amount then 25 miles an hour. A 13-14 second swell moves at around 15 miles an hour.

The problem becomes not only are the waves much taller then normal, but they are geometrically thicker, and, they are moving much faster then you are used to, making getting over the ledge to the bottom of the wave much more difficult.

I used to compare surfing Wiamea and Sunset Beach to pulling yourself along with your arms, while on a skateboard, on a semi truck, going 25 miles an hour, into a 30 mile an hour wind, with some one shooting you with a firehose. You then have to jump to your feet, blinded by the spray, land on your board, find your balance, and pray you've made it half way down the face.
 

Santilli

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LunarMist

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Yeah it is crazy. We were going on Saturday, but I just watch and don't go in the ocean.
 
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