Building a home NAS - feedback on build

Mercutio

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There's at least one company that offers a 24 3.5" bay 4U chassis for $200. They're kind of crummy as far as chassis go, but that does get you to the kind of storage density you're talking about.
 

Handruin

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I've read people recommending the Norco 4020 or Norco 4220 case which has 20 hotswap bays. They're more expensive than the one you described, but look like nice rack mount cases. They have a 24 bay case in the works but it's not ready yet.
 

MaxBurn

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The norco cases are pretty popular over on avsforum for building home servers, they all seem to like them.
 

Handruin

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The folks over in the hardocp forums also seem to like them. I'm concerned I'd have the same problem I have now even though they use a different back plane. I may order it through amazon just in case because they paid return shipping on my last one.

If I bought the Norco case, it also means I now have an extra case that I didn't really need. :( I'm sure I'll find something to do with it.
 

Handruin

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I decided to skip the Norco case and took a chance with the Icy Dock 5 in 3 bay. So far I'm not having the same performance issues like I had with the Supermicro, so either there is some strange compatibility problem or I had two consecutive defective units.

The Icy Dock is a LOT quieter and a lot lighter. It doesn't feel as well made as the Supermicro...but it actually works. I also like that the LEDs transition from green (idle) to red (I/O). I don't like that it's another $10 more than the Supermicro, but it's hard to complain when this unit actually works and the other one does not.
 

Stereodude

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I'll be buying a new network switch sooner than expected. My netgear ProSafe 8 port GS108 switch has begun to give me this flash of death if more than two ports are connected. Googling the issue shows that many other people have had the same issue...ggrrrr. I've had it for several years so it's out of warranty. Online people said it was a capacitor issue but I opened mine up and none of them are bulged.

I did check the power supply with my volt meter and its output is 12V but my volt meter was only showing 7.6V output. That could be the problem, but I don't know...
My GS108 is now showing the same behavior. It has the flash of death with nothing plugged into it. The power supply measures a constant 12.86V and I tried a 2nd power supply with the same results. Mine is about 40 months old. According to Netgear's page, "Lifetime warranty for product purchased after 05/01/2007. For product purchased before 05/01/2007, warranty is 5 years."

So, I guess I could attempt to RMA it. In the mean time my equally old GS105 is pinch hitting.
 

Handruin

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Did you open it up and see if the capacitors bulged? I checked mine, but there was no issue. I think mine was the power supply and maybe yours is the capacitors?

I haven't done anything with mine. I'm using the D-Link router right now for my GigE connections. I have just enough ports for what I need, but I'll need to do something more in the next few months.
 

Stereodude

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Yep, I've got two bulged caps inside. I'm trying to decide if I would rather replace the caps myself or go with the hassle of an RMA.
 

Stereodude

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Well, my 5 port Netgear GS105 is now misbehaving like the GS108 was. I guess need to open it up and see if it has bulged caps inside.

I've been foiled by procrastination! :(
 

Stereodude

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Well, I opened it up. No sign of swollen caps. The main power supply cap is a Nichicon (Japanese) cap. I poked around inside it with a multimeter and nothing seems wrong. So, I plugged a bunch of stuff back into it to see if it would fail again under a "heavy" load and am now pumping as much traffic through it as I can.
 

Buck

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I decided to skip the Norco case and took a chance with the Icy Dock 5 in 3 bay. So far I'm not having the same performance issues like I had with the Supermicro, so either there is some strange compatibility problem or I had two consecutive defective units.

The Icy Dock is a LOT quieter and a lot lighter. It doesn't feel as well made as the Supermicro...but it actually works. I also like that the LEDs transition from green (idle) to red (I/O). I don't like that it's another $10 more than the Supermicro, but it's hard to complain when this unit actually works and the other one does not.

Handy, I'm too lazy to read if you already posted, but what drives are you using? Backplane firmware and HDD firmware can be/become incompatible.
 

Handruin

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I'm using 8 of the Samsung 1.5TB 5400 RPM (EcoGreen F2 HD154UI) drives.
 

Buck

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I'm using 8 of the Samsung 1.5TB 5400 RPM (EcoGreen F2 HD154UI) drives.

Skimming through some of the basic information from Supermicro, I would say you have a compatibility issue. This is not unusual; it's just a bummer to find out after buying product.
 

Handruin

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Where did you get this basic information? Fortunately I bought the Supermicro from Amazon who was very easy to deal with and they paid return shipping both times. Because of this experience, I've bought more from Amazon in the past year than I would have, and newegg has lost some business.
 

Buck

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Where did you get this basic information? Fortunately I bought the Supermicro from Amazon who was very easy to deal with and they paid return shipping both times. Because of this experience, I've bought more from Amazon in the past year than I would have, and newegg has lost some business.

Not that it guarantees success, but some of the HDD compatibility Supermicro publishes completely excludes the Samsung brand. So, I expect that Supermicro is not even testing Samsung drives with their hardware. It has also been my experience that desktop drives have more compatibility issues with this type of hardware than Enterprise drives.
 

Stereodude

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Well, I opened it up. No sign of swollen caps. The main power supply cap is a Nichicon (Japanese) cap. I poked around inside it with a multimeter and nothing seems wrong. So, I plugged a bunch of stuff back into it to see if it would fail again under a "heavy" load and am now pumping as much traffic through it as I can.
Seems like it might be a bad wall wart. The switch started misbehaving pretty quickly after I loaded it up. I took a multimeter to the PCB and found the 12V input was bouncing around. I swapped the wall wart for the one I had from the GS105 and am testing again.
 
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