Running cat 6 cable

[blakerwry]

Be careful you don't end up with something like this: wneddnce:

That's a good bit of cable...

I can identify what I believe is 12 guage romex (yellow), RG-6? (White), Twisted Pair/Cat5/6 (orange), RG-59? (Black).... what is the green? I assume I'm wrong on the white/black as well, one if which I would guess to actually be speaker wire....

 

[Stereodude]

That's a good bit of cable...

I can identify what I believe is 12 guage romex (yellow), RG-6? (White), Twisted Pair/Cat5/6 (orange), RG-59? (Black).... what is the green? I assume I'm wrong on the white/black as well, one if which I would guess to actually be speaker wire....

Here's the color code:

Yellow - 12ga romex for power
White - 12ga speaker wire (some is 12-2, some is 12-4)
Gray - 22ga balanced cable (XLR)
Orange - CAT6 for Ethernet (wired home network)
Green - CAT6 for CobraNet, USB over CAT6, HDbaseT, s-video
Black - RG-6 for stereo audio, component video, composite video, co-ax SPDIF

There's also a silver optical SPDIF in there somewhere and two fat black HDMI cables.

 

[time]

Home theater? I thought he was just putting in another phone.

 

[Handruin]

Ah, my mistake, you're right. I think it's more like his own Telco in the basement. ;-)

 

[Handruin]

Here's a good video on how to terminate cat5 at a keystone. The termination at a patch panel is similar. Some keystones/panels may provide color coding for TIA/EIA-568-A while others show TIA/EIA-568-B (and some show both). Just be sure to use the same at each end - there is no benefit to one over the other. The important parts are to end with the cleanest, tightest termination possible. Excess stripping or unwinding will likely result in runs that will not reliably support gbit operation. I'd also recommend pre-made patch cables from the jacks to the devices.

I noticed both the patch panel and the keystones have markings for both 568-A and 568-B. I know you say there is no benefit to one over the other, then why is it an option for me to choose? Is this just one of those historical things that is still in the present day?

The instructions I read on the cabling say to use/strip no more than 30mm of cabling for the same reasons you suggested.

Stereodude, do you know what the black piece of plastic is used for that comes with each of the tool-less keystones? I'm assuming it's a lever to clamp down the plate to make the connection. Once I snap the keystones into the plate, it doesn't seem to be needed for anything. Also, each keystone comes with a tiny zip-tie. Is that to be used to hold the tool-less keystone closed?

 

[ddrueding]

A and B are just for legacy reasons.

 

[Handruin]

The electricians are tearing through the house right now. I lost my internet connectivity on the cable modem. So I took my girlfriend's Verizon Air card and it doesn't fit in the slot type for my work laptop so I installed it in my personal laptop and enabled that windows internet connection sharing, and I'm amazingly surprised it actually works! I can get my work done and my personal laptop is also functioning online.

Also, I ordered my HP ProCurve 24 1810G-24G port switch from Newegg yesterday afternoon with the basic 3-day UPS shipping...and it's out for delivery today!

Does anyone know where to get mounting rails for networking equipment with the right U spacing convention? I went and bought an audio rack but it's going to be too big to fit in the area in my basement even though it's the right fit for the equipment. If I can find the metal rails with the right spacing and threading, I will build my own rack hanging from the ceiling. I guess I could always just buy some metal and drill/thread it myself.

 

[Stereodude]

Do what I did. I bought a couple of these. I attached them to wood on the side and hung them from the ceiling.

 

[Stereodude]

I noticed both the patch panel and the keystones have markings for both 568-A and 568-B. I know you say there is no benefit to one over the other, then why is it an option for me to choose? Is this just one of those historical things that is still in the present day?

The instructions I read on the cabling say to use/strip no more than 30mm of cabling for the same reasons you suggested.

Stereodude, do you know what the black piece of plastic is used for that comes with each of the tool-less keystones? I'm assuming it's a lever to clamp down the plate to make the connection. Once I snap the keystones into the plate, it doesn't seem to be needed for anything. Also, each keystone comes with a tiny zip-tie. Is that to be used to hold the tool-less keystone closed?

I used A, my buddy who used to do wiring told me that's the most common. The key is to make sure you use the same thing on both ends.

The lever is to help close the keystone on the wiring. I used the zip tie to secure the CAT6 wire to the upper hinged part of the keystone.

This part:

 

[Handruin]

Awesome, that's basically what I'm looking for as a mounting plate. What's the patch panel part called where you have (what looks like) all the RG 6 connections into their own plate? I'd like to do the same thing since all my RG 6 are going to the same location as the CAT 6. Is it just a keystone patch panel and you bought the F-type connectors to pop into it?

Also, how did you connect all the RG 6 cables together, was it one giant splitter, or several splitters? I'll have 6 total RG 6 connections to put together so it's not that bad, but any tips would be great.

 

[Handruin]

I found one solution on monoprice by using their 2U keystone panel. I don't have a lot of room where the cables are run, but I could go with this wall plate which has a hing on one side to make it easier to work with. That should give me the 1U for the 24-port patch panel, 1U for the network switch, and 2U for the RG 6...even though I don't need that many.

 

[Stereodude]

My co-ax panel is a not a keystone panel with a bunch of keystones snapped into it. It's a dedicated co-ax panel I got pretty cheap on ebay.

Personally, I didn't like the looks of the Monoprice keystone panel. I don't see how the keystones can snap in securely with only a hole in the metal. For my HT I bought two of the CablesToGo 03859 instead. They have some rear structure that I expect will hold the keystones better.

This vs. this:



Here's how I have all the RG-6 connected / split.



I have an active splitter (drop amp) for the antenna in the attic. The splitters for cable use the passive splitters installed by the cable company. I will probably replace them with a active unity gain splitter once I get the HT and need to split them again.

 

[Handruin]

What kind of connectors do you use/recommend for RG 6 quad shielding? I bought some of the crimping type from the Depot and they're terrible...that or my ability to get them crimped on is poor. They won't stay on and are easily pulled off the ends. The first question is, which type are the best? Would it be crimped, twist on, or the compression type (or some other type I'm unaware of)? Next, is there a certain brand of connectors I should be using that are better than the rest?

 

[Stereodude]

Compression all the way. I have the Ideal OmniSeal Pro and use compression ends. link (pdf)

I got it from HD or Lowes (don't recall which).

Monoprice also sells a compression tool and compression ends.

 

[Handruin]

Thanks man. I just ordered the stuff from monoprices. I bought the 50pc compression ends and the compression tool for less than what HD wants for the tool alone. The reviews I read suggested it was very similar to the Ideal tool you recommended but at 1/3 the price.

 

[Handruin]

It took me a few tries to get the compression ends to stay on. What I had not realized is the inner metal ring gets pushed under and inside the cable in order for the back compression piece to hold on to the end. I must have wasted 4 or 5 ends before I eventually took one apart and got a better visual of how it should attach to the cable.

The part I'm in a dilemma about is how to connect the cable modem in with the TV. I have one source coming into the house (like most people) and I have 6 RG 6 to connect together. You recommended a 8-way amplifier with a passive return, does that work ok with cable modems? The reviews suggest that it does so i was considering trying it.

My thought was to keep the cable modem in the basement, but I don't want to leave my router down there because it will reduce the WiFi signal. My thought was to use my new switch and create a vlan on a dedicated port to one of my rooms and then plug the router into it upstairs where it'll plug into the WAN-side port. This way it's an isolated connection and then I'll connect the LAN side port into another jack in the wall which will connect the rest of the switch so that there is internet access. I figured that would make for a nice use of a single vlan to keep the wan-side traffic from being broadcasting everywhere in the house essentially making the router/firewall useless.

 

[Stereodude]

The part I'm in a dilemma about is how to connect the cable modem in with the TV. I have one source coming into the house (like most people) and I have 6 RG 6 to connect together. You recommended a 8-way amplifier with a passive return, does that work ok with cable modems? The reviews suggest that it does so i was considering trying it.

I don't know. I don't have my amp on the cable line. I'd recommend getting a MoCA capable one (pdf) now. You can get an 8 port with passive reverse or active reverse.

My thought was to keep the cable modem in the basement, but I don't want to leave my router down there because it will reduce the WiFi signal. My thought was to use my new switch and create a vlan on a dedicated port to one of my rooms and then plug the router into it upstairs where it'll plug into the WAN-side port. This way it's an isolated connection and then I'll connect the LAN side port into another jack in the wall which will connect the rest of the switch so that there is internet access. I figured that would make for a nice use of a single vlan to keep the wan-side traffic from being broadcasting everywhere in the house essentially making the router/firewall useless.

You're thinking to about this a little too hard. :nono:

You don't connect the cable modem to the switch. Put the cable modem in the basement, but plug it directly into your CAT6 patch panel. Then, plug the WAN port on your router into the drop in the wall that corresponds to the run you plugged the cable modem into the basement. Then, plug one of the router's LAN ports into another drop that connects from your CAT6 patch panel to your switch.

 

[Stereodude]

It took me a few tries to get the compression ends to stay on. What I had not realized is the inner metal ring gets pushed under and inside the cable in order for the back compression piece to hold on to the end. I must have wasted 4 or 5 ends before I eventually took one apart and got a better visual of how it should attach to the cable.

You need to fold the braided shield over the insulation on the RG6. I'm not sure you're doing it right based on your description.

I'd recommend watching this video.

 

[Handruin]

I don't know. I don't have my amp on the cable line. I'd recommend getting a MoCA capable one (pdf) now. You can get an 8 port with passive reverse or active reverse.
You're thinking to about this a little too hard. :nono:

You don't connect the cable modem to the switch. Put the cable modem in the basement, but plug it directly into your CAT6 patch panel. Then, plug the WAN port on your router into the drop in the wall that corresponds to the run you plugged the cable modem into the basement. Then, plug one of the router's LAN ports into another drop that connects from your CAT6 patch panel to your switch.

Thanks for the link and suggestion on the amp. What's the advantage of an active return vs passive?

You're right, I was over-thinking the cable modem with the vlan. The vlan sounded more fun to me, but it will take away another switch port. That's the only difference in your plan vs mine, but simplicity is probably the best option.

 

[Handruin]

You need to fold the braided shield over the insulation on the RG6. I'm not sure you're doing it right based on your description.

I'd recommend watching this video.

I actually did find that same video before attempting to try the compression crimping. I did fold back the braid and foil like you suggested. The part I was trying to convey is the same that the guy mentions starting at minute 4:00 in the video. Basically the inner part of the connector fits in-between the braid and the dielectric core. When I first attempted to crimp on the connector I didn't realize that's what he was talking about and I didn't cut the cable correctly so the connector wasn't going on perfect. It took some effort to get these connectors to squeeze into that area of the cable, but once I got them to fit, the cable ends are very secure now. The connectors I screwed up seem to be a one-use only. The compressed part doesn't disconnect even after the cable pulled out. I was able to get one of the back pieces out of the connector but I damaged it. I guess it was a good thing I got a 50 pack even though I only screwed up a few of them.