Some work on my A3

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I would love to install the Pioneer SPH-DA210 in the wife's car ('09 A3 with Navigation and Bose). But according to Crutchfield, it isn't compatible. I don't know whether that means it physically won't fit (I have a dremel), there isn't a wiring harness adapter (I know how to solder), or what.

There is an adapter for the steering wheel controls available, but I don't know about a trim piece or the wiring harness. I've found some references in places, but nothing that I could confirm would work or had pictures/documentation. It can't be that hard?
 

mubs

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Aren't VW group cars notoriously fickle about mods / changes because everything and anything is connected to the ECU and talks with it? If a device (or even a bulb) is something it doesn't recognize, you will be flooded with error codes. I know for a fact that this is true for Skoda vehicles, and AFAIK, there's a lot of commonality between all the VW group vehicles. I'd take Crutchfield's word for it. At the least, please do your due diligence.
 
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Aren't VW group cars notoriously fickle about mods / changes because everything and anything is connected to the ECU and talks with it? If a device (or even a bulb) is something it doesn't recognize, you will be flooded with error codes. I know for a fact that this is true for Skoda vehicles, and AFAIK, there's a lot of commonality between all the VW group vehicles. I'd take Crutchfield's word for it. At the least, please do your due diligence.
Indeed. I'm still looking for LED license plate bulbs that won't throw an error code on the dash ;)

Most of my research so far has been looking for wiring adapters that will accommodate the steering wheel controls and match with the harness at the back of the unit. It would also be nice to confirm that the double-DIN frame that is in there complies with some kind of standard. Bypassing the e-brake and speed sensors completely seems to work well enough.
 
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I would love to install the Pioneer SPH-DA210 in the wife's car ('09 A3 with Navigation and Bose). But according to Crutchfield, it isn't compatible. I don't know whether that means it physically won't fit (I have a dremel), there isn't a wiring harness adapter (I know how to solder), or what.

There is an adapter for the steering wheel controls available, but I don't know about a trim piece or the wiring harness. I've found some references in places, but nothing that I could confirm would work or had pictures/documentation. It can't be that hard?
Found a company called EnfigCarStereo.com out of New Jersey, they have a YouTube channel showing all kinds on installs for VAG cars. Sent them an e-mail and they got back to me in 10 minutes with a parts list that will do the job. Not including the head unit, but including all the other connectors (GPS, Sat Radio, steering wheel controls, etc) and the dash kit, the total was $666 for both cars. More than the head units in the first place. Ouch.
 
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Established an awesome relationship with Mike @ Pacific Throttle House. Managed to get the APR Stage 2+ going and dyno'd. 280WHP and 308lbft of torque. Before I even left I placed an order for a K04 turbo, which should put it around 315WHP. The thing is already disconcertingly fast. I'll post some performance numbers next week.
 

Handruin

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Established an awesome relationship with Mike @ Pacific Throttle House. Managed to get the APR Stage 2+ going and dyno'd. 280WHP and 308lbft of torque. Before I even left I placed an order for a K04 turbo, which should put it around 315WHP. The thing is already disconcertingly fast. I'll post some performance numbers next week.
Sounds like a nice boost. Did you get base numbers before the tune?
 
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time

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And then the engine goes "BOOM!" ...


Seriously, that is an amazing boost without an engine rebuild. Apparently the A3 made 200BHP, the S3 came with 265BHP, and yours must be developing around 370BHP!

Did they give you a copy of the dynamometer chart showing torque vs rpm?
 
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And then the engine goes "BOOM!" ...


Seriously, that is an amazing boost without an engine rebuild. Apparently the A3 made 200BHP, the S3 came with 265BHP, and yours must be developing around 370BHP!

Did they give you a copy of the dynamometer chart showing torque vs rpm?
Didn't do a pre-tune pull. I got to know the guy during the work, so to start it was just business. He wouldn't give me the chart without charging me for the run (understandable), but it was very fat indeed. ;)

I asked how much power the engine could take before internals needed to be looked at. Valve springs around 400, Conn. Rods at 500, everything else is fine with nitrous or whatever to 700.

At the moment we're just at 20lbs of boost.
 
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No GTX2867R? :rambo:
Not yet. This still has to be my daily driver. At some point the modifications will begin to make the vehicle less practical, but I can't afford for that to happen yet.

Improvements so far:
CI100020 - Carbino Intake - MK5/MK6
CI100020-A - TSI Breather Filter Kit
CI100020-C - Carbino Intake TSI
CD100027 - Golf R Downpipe
IC100012 - Intercooler Kit, 2.0T FSI Non Stage 3
Braille Battery i48CX Intensity
Pioneer SPH-DA210
StopTech slotted front rotors
Braided brake lines
Ceramic brake pads

Next:
K04 Turbo
Pioneer Amp/Speakers
Suspension? I don't want it lowered, but better roll control would be nice.
Other weight savings? I don't want to do the easy stuff (insulation, seats, stereo, AC). But there should be some stuff that doesn't affect the experience. Carbon Fiber panels, certainly.
 
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[video=youtube_share;PSGECxs0EII]http://youtu.be/PSGECxs0EII[/video]

Pretty much as pessimistic as I could make it. No roll out, full tank, poor surface, etc. Feels pretty quick.

(Private runway, take precautions, stay legal, etc)
 
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So after several weeks with the K04, I've resolved my last complaint.

During quick-ish driving (2/3 throttle?), 1-2 and 2-3 shifts were really violent and occasionally the car would hang at redline without shifting for as much as half a second. Once this even set the check-engine light blinking.

Traction control. Apparently it is trying to cut in mid-shift causing the turbo to dump all the boost and ease into it or abort the shift altogether. Once I disable it all is well. Of course, this means I need to think about throttle application to save my tires, but that involvement is much more interesting than rowing gears ;)

Under normal driving it isn't an issue either way; a normal driver (my wife or parents) wouldn't have any idea it wasn't a normal car. You don't even really hear the turbo in the top half of the throttle, but it will turn heads if you lift at just the right time.
 
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Has anyone here attempted/paid for wetsanding to remove "orange peel" texture from their car? I have the tools, and am considering making a stab at it (nice quiet hours grinding in the garage are relaxing to me at this point)

[video=youtube_share;RxnnA7ntDUo]http://youtu.be/RxnnA7ntDUo[/video]
 
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It isn't bad, just enough for me to see it every time I look. The guys in the video above show the process (1500, 2000, 2500, cut, polish) and lose less than a mil. I wasn't planning on going any rougher than 3000 (there are some water spots that might take this much to remove anyway).

The windshield is another matter; serious pitting every half inch or so. Hoping that I can polish some of it out.
 
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I hope you got what you paid for from APR. This thread isn't very reassuring.
Nope, that outright sucks. For now I am happy with what I have, just had a recalibration of the clutch and all the driveability issues I had are gone. 99% stock for shifts and it feels very fast indeed. I'll have it properly dyno'd at some point, but it is keeping me happy.
 

Handruin

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I've never got a warm feeling from APR just from their forum behavior. Arin has always presented himself like a cocky ass which really kept me from being interested in their product offerings. If/when I decide to go down a similar tuning path I'm leaning toward GIAC for their ECU tune + reduced-diameter SC pulley. They've also had some questionable issues recently but I hope they work through them and get things sorted out. Out of all the parts I've tried (which isn't many) the one that left me the happiest is the Michelin Pilot Super Sport summer tires. They're subjectively the best tire I've ever driven on. It inspires driving confidence in so many ways, especially in stopping.
 
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Next up is suspension. I don't need it lower (the Ti handling pack already lowered the car ~1" from standard) or all that much stiffer (not tracking the car). But better damping would be nice. Lighter would be nice as well.
 

Howell

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The A3 E-Tron is the first Audi that has piqued my interest. Hopefully a VW branded plugin hybrid will be coming soon so I won't have to pay for the four circles.
 
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Fooling around on a freshly paved (and still closed) runway this morning. I had no idea a buddy was even around, and he taped and tagged me on FB.

[video=youtube_share;ttHtSt6M5rE]http://youtu.be/ttHtSt6M5rE[/video]
 
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Cracked one of the Forgestar F14 wheels bad enough to cause a slow leak. Honestly don't remember doing anything too crazy in the last week, nothing really wheel-threatening in the last 18 months. Just sent them an e-mail asking how quickly I can get a replacement.
 
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They are happy to replace the wheel at my cost. ;) Once I place the order the build time is 6-8 weeks. Unfortunately, I'm having a hard time correctly identifying the wheel. The company I originally purchased from never actually included the Forgestar unique ID for the wheels, nor is their description specific enough to ensure a perfect match. Based on the recommendation of the new supplier I should locate the unique ID on the wheel. After pulling the wheel and photographing all the markings, he says that none of those are what he is looking for and I should pull the tire off and check for other markings. I'm tempted to put on the OEM wheels and just ship him the darn thing.
 
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Oh, and the crack formed from the inside lip of the rim itself. It is quite large at the edge, but only a tiny bit of the crack is actually inside the pressurized portion. I suspect that the crack has slowly grown since the last significant impact nearly 2 years ago.
 

Handruin

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That doesn't sound good. Are you not concerned you could have a full loss of the wheel while driving? I'm surprised that those Forgestar wheels need a unique identifier in order to get you a replacement. I'm assuming that model is no longer in production?

I've wondered about the same thing with my Morr wheels. They no longer make the model I have and if I destroy one of them, I may either be out of luck or it'll be a fortune to have one made. I've been considering selling the set while they're still in good condition and get something else. There is a newer wheel from TSW that I've been interested in. The TSW Bathurst in Gloss Gunmetal have caught my eye and the weight and price aren't bad.
 
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My wheel is still in production, albeit a newer revision. It seems they use the number to keep track of all the variables offered (diameter, width, offset, dish, bolt-pattern, finish, color). There are apparently three finishes for my color (gunmetal) and three stages of dish for my ET48 offset that I am unable to specify between. Normally it wouldn't really matter if you were ordering a whole set, but just one would clearly look funny if it was wrong.
 

Handruin

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SD, You seem to have chosen the more conservative approach. Custom wheels come with a different set of pros and cons vs mass-produced.

I specifically insure my wheels separately at full replacement cost in case they get destroyed or stolen knowing that it might be more costly to get a replacement.
 
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