So, I wound up with a Precision 7750 off of a friend whose company was liquidating inventory after upgrading their fleet. No storage, asset info was scrubbed, the useless battery was removed so it could go in a plane, so on and so forth. I ended up chucking the 2TB I bought for my 840g8 and a spare 512GB drive I had into it, as it's got 4 NVMe slots as mentioned in another thread. I also ended up replacing the battery for a used one with "good" life remaining so it can survive sleeps between being plugged into the wall and so I could flash the latest firmware -- it was at 1.6 and jumped directly to 1.38.
It's a bit of a chonkster. Model denotes it as a 17 inch laptop but I have it on good authority that the display is actually 17.3" and there's a healthy half inch of bezel at the sides and top, and a full inch at the bottom. I'd call this an 18 or even 18.5" laptop in actuality. It got slightly shipping damaged but I repaired the worst of it. One corner is missing the retaining nut in the body that the captive screw would screw into, and the right side of the cooler has some manky looking bending on the fins that I mostly straightened out, but it runs fine.
The keyboard is broadly fine though it does seem to miss the odd keypress and that's starting to get annoying, though the full numpad is very useful and you can rebind the calculator keys in the registry. Touchpad bizarrely has actual buttons at the bottom instead of the whole touchpad being one big button, and more bizarrely still it has a dedicated middle click button. It does support gestures, as it is a modern touchpad otherwise. I would eventually like to replace the display with a 120Hz panel, but I'm in no hurry as that both involves spending money and a deeply involved disassembly process I'd rather avoid.
It has a 10th gen i7, a 10850H, and a Quadro RTX 5000 with 16GB of VRAM which from what I can tell is basically the laptop equivalent of a 2080 Super. It's a couple hundred points off from my main with the 3060 12GB in Time Spy, but it doesn't have to drive as high resolution a display (1080p vs 1440p) and not at as fast a refresh (60 vs 120) so overall this either outperforms or comes very close to outperforming my main in half the wattage.
It was a bit of a heroic process to unlock the voltage controls on this -- decompiling the firmware, looking for the offsets to change to toggle CFG Lock and Overclocking Lock off, and finally booting into a special tool to toggle said variables in hex -- but I seem to have settled in at around a -175mV undervolt, which I'm told is pretty good for 10th gen. It doesn't run any cooler or consume any less power -- for that, I had to configure power limits, and I typically keep PL1 at 50W with PL2 at 70W for a maximum 40sec turbo -- but it does sustain higher turbo clocks for longer, in my burn-in testing in OCCT with the PLs set to 90/110 it wasn't wanting to draw anything over 80 and ran at ~84C to sustain 3.6GHz all core in AVX2, which again I'm told is pretty good for 10th gen. In games it tends to sustain around 4.2 all core fine enough. I have a PROCHOT offset of 10C as I really don't feel comfortable with the idea of riding 100C on anything.
I'm more or less replacing my daily use of my main with this as it's both more convenient to use in the living room and more power efficient. Under load, my main can draw 300-400W easily, and my main isn't particularly power hungry. This on the other hand has a hard cap of 240W from the brick it's got, and in practice I don't think I've ever seen sustained draw go past 150W.