timwhit
0
I'm going to have to disagree with you on that front. The wheels are too bad to use IMHO. I wouldn't use them on my S4 if you gave them to me for free.
Just tell the guy that he can either refund your money or you will dispute the charge.
I'm going to have to disagree with you on that front. The wheels are too bad to use IMHO. I wouldn't use them on my S4 if you gave them to me for free.
I'm going to have to disagree with you on that front. The wheels are too bad to use IMHO. I wouldn't use them on my S4 if you gave them to me for free.
I'm going to have to disagree with you on that front. The wheels are too bad to use IMHO. I wouldn't use them on my S4 if you gave them to me for free.
You didn't see them in person. The fact is you can get a basically flawless finish on a $700 set of wheels, but they're trying to claim this is normal for a $1700 set of wheels. It is absurd. If this is really what a customer should expect, that information should be provided to customers up front with pictures and some sort of disclaimer like, "Your wheels may contain up to x number of small defects not exceeding x mm in size. This is a normal side effect of the powder coating process."I likely fit in with their less-picky customers then. The wheels didn't look unusable to me, but I'd be annoyed at the defects just like you are. I'd probably ask for a refund also.
That hasn't exactly been conveyed to me, but I don't plan to pay.Who has to pay for the return? I'm assuming they do?
That's going to be tight. Real tight...The part that I still don't yet get is that they are 19x8.5 et 35. He's using 255/35/19 tires on those wheels. Does that sound like the right offset and tire size?
It sounds like it may or may not rub depending on the tires you use. linkL0U said:8.5 et35 on 255s is very much like 9.5 et39 on 255s......both very agressive, or 10 et41 on 255s.
That's going to be tight. Real tight...
It sounds like it may or may not rub depending on the tires you use. link
Not yet. I expect they're about 19.5lbs maybe a hair less. I'll have to weigh one before I send 'em back. I don't have very good scale though. It'll be a crude measurement.Stereodude, did you weigh the Forgestars you received?
Well, within my ability to measure them I got 19.0 lbs.Stereodude, did you weigh the Forgestars you received?
I'm trying to sort out why TireRack says the 18x8 ET35 is a tight fit (and not offered) but other (non Raijin) ET35 and even ET32 18x8 wheels are offered for the B8 S4. Otherwise I can get the 18x8.5 ET42, but I think the 18x8 ET35 should be slightly lighter and it will position the rubber slighter further out.Did you decide yet on the Enkei Raijin wheels?
So TireRack changed their mind and decided the 18x8 ET35 Raijin will work as long as the car isn't lowered more than 2". link
I guess. I have a few questions though. About lug bolts (mainly length) and hubcentric rings. I'm also hoping to get rid of the Forgestar wheels first.That's good news. Does that mean you're all set now and can order them?
It turns out you get lug bolts and hubcentric rings even if you buy only only wheels (no tires) from Tire Rack. Tire Rack is being a little cagey though. They want to measure a 2013 first or they can't guarantee the fitment and won't take them back if they don't fit. They say this should happen in the next few weeks. I'm not sure I care, but then again I don't have an immediate need for wheels and given Tire Rack's location I can get them the next day UPS Ground so I guess I can hold off for a bit.I guess. I have a few questions though. About lug bolts (mainly length) and hubcentric rings.
Not really. Plus I want the wheels in my hands unmounted so I can Opti-Coat 2.0 them easier.Are you close enough to just bring the car in and have them fit the wheels? That solves your problem and theirs.
I found what appears to be an even better wheel lock design from McGard. The McGard Ultra SL. It has a rotating collar/ring on the outside to prevent the typical hammer on a socket or counterthreaded easy out sort of attack. Unfortunately they aren't sold in the US, but I did find a seller on ebay in the UK offering them with international shipping. They look to be about $77 shipped.I also looked into "Locking" Lug Bolts. RAD wheel locks seem to be the way to go. Achtuning seems to have the best price after shipping. For the factory Audi wheels "14x1.5 26.5mm Ball" are the right size / type. Most aftermarket wheels use cone type bolts / nuts so I would need another set of lug bolt locks that are cone seat for the Enkei wheels.
It turns out you get lug bolts and hubcentric rings even if you buy only only wheels (no tires) from Tire Rack. Tire Rack is being a little cagey though. They want to measure a 2013 first or they can't guarantee the fitment and won't take them back if they don't fit. They say this should happen in the next few weeks. I'm not sure I care, but then again I don't have an immediate need for wheels and given Tire Rack's location I can get them the next day UPS Ground so I guess I can hold off for a bit.
I also looked into "Locking" Lug Bolts. RAD wheel locks seem to be the way to go. Achtuning seems to have the best price after shipping. For the factory Audi wheels "14x1.5 26.5mm Ball" are the right size / type. Most aftermarket wheels use cone type bolts / nuts so I would need another set of lug bolt locks that are cone seat for the Enkei wheels.
I found what appears to be an even better wheel lock design from McGard. The McGard Ultra SL. It has a rotating collar/ring on the outside to prevent the typical hammer on a socket or counterthreaded easy out sort of attack. Unfortunately they aren't sold in the US, but I did find a seller on ebay in the UK offering them with international shipping. They look to be about $77 shipped.
Of course on the flip side of their effectiveness you'd better be really careful not to damage or lose the key since the common methods of removing wheel locks without the key won't work. Welding a nut to the front face looks like the only "easy" removal method without the key.
They're probably also a step beyond what I need. I have a garage that I park in at night and I generally don't go to shady areas so I probably don't need something more than a general deterrent. I do find it interesting that the more effective wheels locks aren't sold in the US though.These seem nice and very secure, but probably a step beyond what I'm looking for. My parents next door neighbor had a tricked out Maxima with wheels supposedly costing somewhere around the $4K range (according to him) were stolen while his car was right in front of the house. The people who did this cut out the passenger side window and located the key to the wheel locks that was inside the car. They used bricks from garden to place the car on and stole the wheels plus a bunch of other stuff. It didn't matter that he even had wheel locks. The important part is to hide the key as well as possible inside the car.
They're probably also a step beyond what I need. I have a garage that I park in at night and I generally don't go to shady areas so I probably don't need something more than a general deterrent. I do find it interesting that the more effective wheels locks aren't sold in the US though.
With the McGard Ultra SL wheel locks if they don't have the key they're not going to be stealing your wheels off the car while it's in your driveway with out attracting TONS of attention and taking a LOT of time. Of course you correctly point out that they know the key is most likely in the car which makes their task easier. However, the idea is that they'll set the alarm off in the process of getting the key out of the car which might bring them the extra attention they're not after. A more conventional wheel lock can be removed without making a lot of noise or taking a significant amounts of time which makes it less of a deterrent.I also have a garage to park in at night which is why I wasn't overly concerned. My parents live in a decent area with minimal to no crime and yet this happened right next door to them. The neighbor suspected it might have been the auto garage where he had the work done to his car, so they knew where he lived and exactly what was on his car, etc. My point being, you don't have to be in a shady area for someone to heist your wheels. If they want them, they'll get them. His downfall was a lack of garage space that evening. :-\
With the McGard Ultra SL wheel locks if they don't have the key they're not going to be stealing your wheels off the car while it's in your driveway with out attracting TONS of attention and taking a LOT of time. Of course you correctly point out that they know the key is most likely in the car which makes their task easier. However, the idea is that they'll set the alarm off in the process of getting the key out of the car which might bring them the extra attention they're not after. A more conventional wheel lock can be removed without making a lot of noise or taking a significant amounts of time which makes it less of a deterrent.
In your example that's thieves who really wanted the wheels and probably profiled him and came prepared. That's not someone driving up and down the street looking for an opportunity to score a set of wheels. Frankly, I don't think anyone is going to be that dedicated just to steal a set of 18" Enkei's or factory 18" Audi wheels. They not exactly a $6k set of HRE's.The neighbor who had his wheels stolen had an alarm. The thieves cut out the passenger's side window without setting off the alarm and then disabled it somehow. Most people keep the wheel lock key in the car because if you don't, and you don't have runflats, you're screwed if you get a flat tire. Otherwise you need to remember to bring it into your house every day/night when you're not using your car which can be a pain in the ass. back to my original point, if someone wants your wheels, they'll get them even if you have an alarm. You'd have to have the wheel locks you suggested and remember to bring the wheel lock key with you at all times that you're not in your car. It's just not worth it IMHO.