udaman
Wannabe Storage Freak
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2006
- Messages
- 1,209
What kind of things were they looking at? What type of lens? Film? Were they talking about a good prime lens shooting with low speed slide film or B&W? I would say the resolving power of a 35 mm P&S or a consumer grade SLR with cheapo kit zoom lens and 400 or 800 ISO film couldn't be equivalent to much more than 10 MP.
Yep. Noise, dynamic range, and linearity are big factors.
Speaking of which, let's not forget that it's much easier for SLR's with large / full-frame sensors to have high megapixel counts without noise problems compared to small sensors found in consumer-grade dSLRs, and especially compact P&S digicams.
I guess we're speaking for different segments of the photographic community here -- I'm focussing on the needs of the more mainstream consumer and the limitation of mainstream consumer-level products, while you're speaking more for the enthusiasts and their products.
Hmm, IIRC there are only the Canon 1D, 5D, & Leica dSLR with full-frame 35mm sensors, of those only the 5D is under $3k.
Going OT as far as the P&S debate, film is still better by far-not just by the resolution factor, for a given situation (technical debates ). This is clearly illustrated at this website, and I don't think we'll be seeing any 4x5in. 500MP sensors anytime soon in the future:
http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/filmdig.htm
However, there a new 120 (or was it 7x7cm?) sized 33MP sensors at the higher-end pro level.
And btw, the D50 is priced currently about the same as the D40 (D40 being newer it will take time for the price to drop below the D50), and the D80 is already "<$800", for this US warranty, complete package D80, only $829
http://www.expresscameras.com/prodetails.asp?prodid=621005&up=620700&start=1
Though this package for about the same price in the D50 does have a wider range in the 2 Nikkor zoom lens.
http://www.expresscameras.com/prodetails.asp?prodid=373046&up=372973&start=1
If you need only equivalent of 28mm as your widest angle, and can put up with limitations of full auto operation, the optically image stablized Canon 800is is some what smaller than the Panasonic LX-2.
The Canon A710is, in addition to have a much longer (but still not that great unless you add the tele-converted 1.7x lens) focal lenght zoom, allows for adpater lens that goes even wider to 24.5mm. Given probably lower noise sensor, greater detail at higher ISO compared to the Panasonic/Leica models, and likely nearly identical lens performance (you wouldn't expect multi-thousand $ German made Leica lens performance of their rangefinder or dSLR lens on a compact P&S). I would still go for the Canon A710is, as a travel camera, just because I get more 'reach' with that 210mm effective telephoto end of the zoom range.
For the necessity of higher shutter speeds to capture action/movement in low light, in a semi-auto pocket sized P&S, the Fuji F31 with face recognition tech, seems the better compromsie than a Canon SD800is (but you lose that 28mm wider angle lens of the 800is). If you don't need higher shutter speeds, then the optical stablization of the 800is would allow for low light pictures via longer exposure speeds.
For me the 2.0in LCD on the D50 vs 2.5in in the D40 isn't that much of a deal breaker as Canon's top level 1D pro dSLR has 'only' a 2in LCD, the original D70 only 1.8in. But the Olympus dSLR I linked to in prior post, has more interesting innovative tech on it, IMO; something that no other dSLR has at present. If they can only get the size down to what the old 35mm OM-1 & OM-2 bodies were, I'd gladly give up a 2.5in LCD for a 2in LCD; as even the D40 is hulking huge compared sevelt OM-1 body and slim lens made for that camera. Whether or not the average user will actually notice any improvement with Jpeg images vis a vis new image processor in the D40 v. D50 is debatable. Good for marketing though .
What kind of things were they looking at? What type of lens? Film? Were they talking about a good prime lens shooting with low speed slide film or B&W? I would say the resolving power of a 35 mm P&S or a consumer grade SLR with cheapo kit zoom lens and 400 or 800 ISO film couldn't be equivalent to much more than 10 MP.
Yep. Noise, dynamic range, and linearity are big factors.
Speaking of which, let's not forget that it's much easier for SLR's with large / full-frame sensors to have high megapixel counts without noise problems compared to small sensors found in consumer-grade dSLRs, and especially compact P&S digicams.
I guess we're speaking for different segments of the photographic community here -- I'm focussing on the needs of the more mainstream consumer and the limitation of mainstream consumer-level products, while you're speaking more for the enthusiasts and their products.
Hmm, IIRC there are only the Canon 1D, 5D, & Leica dSLRs with full-frame 35mm sensors, of those only the 5D is under $3k.
Going OT as far as the P&S debate, film is still better by far, for a given situation (technical debates , read the articles, I think they address LunarMist's points about the 1Ds MK II supposed superiority to film), clearly illustrated at this website, and I don't think we'll be seeing any 4x5in. 500MP sensors anytime soon in the future:
http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/filmdig.htm
However, there are new 120 (or was it 7x7cm?) sized 33MP sensors at the higher-end pro level, which may have all the atributes of film, lacking in previous digital sensors, in that film v. digital debate. Eventually, hopefully sooner that later, digital should surpass 35mm film, but don't expect too much in the larger format sizes.
And btw, the D50 is priced currently about the same as the D40 (D40 being newer it will take time for the price to drop below the D50), and the D80 is already "<$800", for this US warranty, complete package D80, only $829
http://www.expresscameras.com/prodetails.asp?prodid=621005&up=620700&start=1
Though this package for about the same price in the D50 does have a wider range in the 2 Nikkor zoom lens.
http://www.expresscameras.com/prodetails.asp?prodid=373046&up=372973&start=1
If you need only equivalent of 28mm as your widest angle, and can put up with limitations of full auto operation, the optically image stabilized Canon 800is is some what smaller than the Panasonic LX-2.
The Canon A710is, in addition to have a much longer (but still not that great unless you add the tele-converter 1.7x lens) focal length zoom, allows for adapter lens that goes even wider to 24.5mm. Given probably lower noise sensor, greater detail at higher ISO compared to the Panasonic/Leica models, and likely nearly identical lens performance (you wouldn't expect multi-thousand $ German made Leica lens performance of their rangefinder or dSLR lens on a compact P&S). I would still go for the Canon A710is, as a travel camera, just because I get more 'reach' with that 210mm effective telephoto end of the zoom range.
For the necessity of higher shutter speeds to capture action/movement in low light, in a semi-auto pocket sized P&S, the Fuji F31 with face recognition tech, seems the better compromise than a Canon SD800is (but you lose that 28mm wider angle lens of the 800is). If you don't need higher shutter speeds, then the optical stabilization of the 800is would allow for low light pictures via longer exposure speeds.
For me the 2.0in LCD on the D50 vs 2.5in in the D40 isn't that much of a deal breaker as Canon's top level 1D pro dSLR has 'only' a 2in LCD, the original D70 only 1.8in. But the Olympus dSLR I linked to in prior post, has more interesting innovative tech on it, IMO; something that no other dSLR has at present. If they can only get the size down to what the old 35mm OM-1 & OM-2 bodies were, I'd gladly give up a 2.5in LCD for a 2in LCD; as even the D40 is hulking huge compared svelte OM-1 body and slim lens made for that camera. Whether or not the average user will actually notice any improvement with Jpeg images vis á vis new image processor in the D40 v. D50 is debatable. Good for marketing though .
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/panasoniclx2/page17.asp
I don't see the huge disparity between the Pany & Canon, but the reviewers seem to pan the LX-2 (even though it's better than the older LX-1 model it replaced) for the noisy sensor, excessive NR.
"Overall, the DMC-LX2's image quality is a mixed bag. On the positive side, the camera took had accurate exposure, and really pleasant color saturation. Purple fringing levels were very low, due in part to the Venus Engine III -- it removes it digitally. Noise levels are above average."
http://www.dcresource.com/reviews/panasonic/dmc_lx2-review/
"The LX2's image quality weak spot is in terms of the amount of detail that is lost due to noise reduction. Even at ISO 100, fine details like grass (examples one ,two ) and hair look like they've had a trip through a watercolor filter in Photoshop. Things get worse at ISO 200, and at ISO 800 you've got a Monet painting (examples one ,two ).
What about some workarounds? I spent a lot of time messing with the noise reduction setting, and to be honest, even at the "low" setting, I didn't find it to help much. What does help quite a bit is to shoot in RAW mode. The shot below was taken at ISO 200, and here are two areas in which I saw a noticeable difference in the amount of detail loss: "
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/panasoniclx2/page17.asp
I don't see the huge disparity between the Pany & Canon, but the reviewers seem to pan the LX-2 (even though it's better than the older LX-1 model it replaced) for the noisey sensor, excessive NR.
"Overall, the DMC-LX2's image quality is a mixed bag. On the positive side, the camera took had accurate exposure, and really pleasant color saturation. Purple fringing levels were very low, due in part to the Venus Engine III -- it removes it digitally. Noise levels are above average."
http://www.dcresource.com/reviews/panasonic/dmc_lx2-review/
"The LX2's image quality weak spot is in terms of the amount of detail that is lost due to noise reduction. Even at ISO 100, fine details like grass (examples one ,two ) and hair look like they've had a trip through a watercolor filter in Photoshop. Things get worse at ISO 200, and at ISO 800 you've got a Monet painting (examples one ,two ).
What about some workarounds? I spent a lot of time messing with the noise reduction setting, and to be honest, even at the "low" setting, I didn't find it to help much. What does help quite a bit is to shoot in RAW mode. The shot below was taken at ISO 200, and here are two areas in which I saw a noticeable difference in the amount of detail loss: "