Stereodude
Not really a
I'm pretty sure perforated screens are passe. Woven screens are what people are using now for acoustical transparency.
Audio Equipment
- Thread starter ddrueding
- Start date
Yes, that's my current plan. I have been reviewing the different brands of screens (Elite, Stewart, etc) and the different AT types (woven vs perforated) as well as the specific gain value. My tentative plan is to go with 135"-140" fixed frame screen that works will with a UHD projector. I'm targeting the BenQ HT3550 as the projector when it becomes generally available. My guess is in the next month or so. My room will be light-controlled with darkening curtains and paint and I'm planning some DIY sound absorbing wall panels and likely some for the ceiling.
My room size is roughly 25' long by 12.5' wide with the plans to have two rows of seats that each hold 3 people. The back row will be lifted higher via a platform I plan to build.
I've started looking through the diysoundgroup but their offerings are a little confusing with regards to the components I need to order to build the main speakers. I need to spend some more time looking through what they offer including your suggestion. I am curious about these kits...I've heard of the Overnight Sensations (not for my HT) which they list but didn't know it made it into an official kit on a website like this.
Original plan for speakers prior to your post was as follows:
Dolby Atoms 7.4.2 setup
L, C, R: SVS Prime Pinnacle
Left side, right side, Left rear, Right rear: SVS prime bookshelf (or maybe the ultras)
Height front left, Height front right, Height left rear, Height right rear: RSL c34e ceiling
Two subs: ported PSU V1811 (I need to do more research before committing)
I'm familiar with PSA with respect to their subwoofers, I already own one of their earlier 15" sealed subs that I use in my office with my Emotiva Airmotiv 4 speakers. I have no experience with their tower speakers.
My room size is roughly 25' long by 12.5' wide with the plans to have two rows of seats that each hold 3 people. The back row will be lifted higher via a platform I plan to build.
I've started looking through the diysoundgroup but their offerings are a little confusing with regards to the components I need to order to build the main speakers. I need to spend some more time looking through what they offer including your suggestion. I am curious about these kits...I've heard of the Overnight Sensations (not for my HT) which they list but didn't know it made it into an official kit on a website like this.
Original plan for speakers prior to your post was as follows:
Dolby Atoms 7.4.2 setup
L, C, R: SVS Prime Pinnacle
Left side, right side, Left rear, Right rear: SVS prime bookshelf (or maybe the ultras)
Height front left, Height front right, Height left rear, Height right rear: RSL c34e ceiling
Two subs: ported PSU V1811 (I need to do more research before committing)
I'm familiar with PSA with respect to their subwoofers, I already own one of their earlier 15" sealed subs that I use in my office with my Emotiva Airmotiv 4 speakers. I have no experience with their tower speakers.
Stereodude
Not really a
Why are you looking at a crappy DLP projector?
It's pretty easy. You buy the kit and the flat pack (assuming you don't want to build your own enclosure from scratch). It looks like a few of them require you to buy the circuit board for the crossover separately.
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Stereodude
Not really a
Anything not DLP. DLP is stuck to like 15 years ago when it comes to contrast. The current projectors are actually worse than the peak of DLP technology. Additionally, the DLP projectors are not actually 4k. They're faux-K. They pixel shift to fake 4k. Some are actually only using 1920x1080 chips and shifting them into 4 positions. Others are something like QHD and shift into two positions.
I would recommend the JVC DILA projectors. If you get the opportunity to see one of the JVC's against one of these DLP's in a fully light controlled room with low IRE content you will understand.
Some of that may be true for older DLP projectors however the BenQ HT3550 uses an updated .47” 4K DLP DMD which does pixel shift but you get native 4K without the grey border. Given the price and performance of this projector, it's not worth me spending 2-4x the price on a JVC and just wait for those to come down in price and upgrade when the tech gets better. The least expensive JVC is also a faux 4K pixel shifter and they're $3-$4K.
Stereodude
Not really a
Sorry, but TI doesn't have a .47" native 4K DLP. They're being very misleading in their marketing material. Look at page 20 of the datasheet: http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/dlp470te.pdf It is 1920x1080.
There's not a single consumer grade DLP projector that has competitive contrast performance. There's nothing special about this HT3550. All non sequential DLPs have bad performance. It's inherent to the technology, which is way behind where LCOS is.
The JVC is worth the extra money. Even if you get one that's not native UHD/4k and has eshift. Contrast is king. Go audition them in the same room fully light controlled room on the same screen instead of believing the marketing material.
DrunkenBastard
Storage is cool
Bang for the buck remains with dlps. You will generally get more brightness for a given $ versus JVC and Sony lcos. Which in this day of HDR content can come in handy. That said I'm still tempted by a quality 1080p lcos projector like the sony 45es for 2k, with basically silent fans. My theater is silent except for the projector fan. Had a 1080p benq 1075 initially in 2014, for the price its hard to complain. Then in 2017 tried an Optoma UHD60. 4k discs looked pretty good, however there was the light mask issue as you mentioned and also the 4k switching on the dlp chip caused an annoying high pitched whine that was audible when the projector was table mounted. Also didn't have an rgbrgb color wheel. Ended up returning for refund.
Stereodude
Not really a
There is no bang for the buck with DLPs unless your criteria is simply projecting a big image for cheap. They have unacceptable performance for a light controlled theater.
Stereodude
Not really a
Can you link us to an 85' TV?
Samsung and LG make large TVs with some variations of the QLED or OLED.
I really would like to know what is not good about them. Is it just the logistics?
I really would like to know what is not good about them. Is it just the logistics?
Stereodude
Not really a
I'm not sure what your link has to do with large TVs. I'm still waiting for evidence of 85' TVs. I know about 80" TVs, but 85' TVs are a new concept to me.
Stereodude
Not really a
PEBKACThe link was there at some point. It's a different type of gremlin from SF.
I don't feel that you did. I know that you did.
Wow, you must really like film and have a large room for that. How many lumens does it take to make a bright image at that humongous size?
DrunkenBastard
Storage is cool
The gain of the screen can help, the other thing to watch for is the dimming of the bulb over time, a virgin bulb may get the job done but as hours build, output will drop off.
Have you played with the projector central website tool that lets you estimate what results you will get with the projector you are looking at? Takes into account projector throw, zoom range etc.
Also watch out for rated lumens in max brightness mode versus what you will get once tweaked for an optimum image.
Have you played with the projector central website tool that lets you estimate what results you will get with the projector you are looking at? Takes into account projector throw, zoom range etc.
Also watch out for rated lumens in max brightness mode versus what you will get once tweaked for an optimum image.
Stereodude
Not really a
I discovered today while moving some equipment around so I can paint the walls that I have the L & R speakers wired to each other's output on the back of my Denon. I guess it's been that way since I swapped over to it from the last one several months ago.
Stereodude
Not really a
Effectively front L & R were swapped in the room. I listen to music and watch video on it. Not sure how I didn't notice, but I never noticed anything on the screen panning opposite of the sound.
I want a pair decent speakers for TV and occasional audio.
They can be up to about 10kg ea. though 8kg is better.
From what I read speakers with 5.25' drivers are lacking in bass compared to the 6.5 drivers.
Sub woofers are not a consideration. Absolute highs are not audible at my age though I want a domed tweeter or similar function that will disperse the highs really well off axis. Thanks .
They can be up to about 10kg ea. though 8kg is better.
From what I read speakers with 5.25' drivers are lacking in bass compared to the 6.5 drivers.
Sub woofers are not a consideration. Absolute highs are not audible at my age though I want a domed tweeter or similar function that will disperse the highs really well off axis. Thanks .
Stereodude
Not really a
Who buys speakers based on weight?
Are you driving them from a receiver or how are you expecting to connect them to the TV?
Are you driving them from a receiver or how are you expecting to connect them to the TV?
Stereodude
Not really a
And your budget is what?
$700 per pair or less would be good, but $1000 for a pair is fine if that makes much difference. I'm currently using some kind of 2-way 5.25 speakers from about 10 years ago that were pretty cheap, IIRC about $150 for both. They weigh less than 10 lbs. ea. and don't sound very good now that I have the digitals. When I was analog I thought the muddiness was due to the source, but apparently not.
When I was analog I thought the muddiness was due to the source, but apparently not.
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Stereodude
Not really a
I'm hesitant to recommend speakers I haven't heard plus I don't know your preferences or how picky you are...$700 per pair or less would be good, but $1000 for a pair is fine if that makes much difference. I'm currently using some kind of 2-way 5.25 speakers from about 10 years ago that were pretty cheap, IIRC about $150 for both. They weigh less than 10 lbs. ea. and don't sound very good now that I have the digitals.
That said, I would consider these given your criteria:
https://www.elac.com/product/b6-2/
https://www.polkaudio.com/products/rtia3
https://www.polkaudio.com/products/s20
https://www.svsound.com/products/prime-bookshelf
https://www.svsound.com/products/ultra-bookshelf
Stereodude
Not really a
I don't think it matters unless you're trying to place them right up against the wall.
Stereodude
Not really a
Did you end up buying anything?
I got taken in by this deal even though I certainly don't need more speakers. I couldn't help myself.
Stereodude
Not really a
I'm planning to put the LSiM707 towers in my bedroom.
I made a few changes to my desktop setup after my microphone went bad on me. I was using a Blue Yeti Pro microphone for the last 5 years and now it has a really bad buzz and static in it. I decided to change things up a bit and after a bit of research and some recommendations from coworkers in the recording/music industry, I went with a MXL-770 cardioid condenser microphone connected to a Focusrite 2i2 Scarlett gen3 connected via USB to my PC. The MXL-770 is connected on a RODE PSA 1 Swivel Mount on my desk via XLR to the 2i2. The 2i2 also serves as my sound processor and headphone amp which is an upgrade from the built-in motherboard connection. The MXL and 2i2 together cost less than a new Yeti Pro and overall the sound is much nicer with better off-axis rejection of noise. I also like having physical dials to control the input/output now that I have a physical piece of hardware. I don't know if anyone else is into this type of components but if you are, maybe give these a look.
Stereodude
Not really a
Interesting. I picked up a Rode NT1 (kit) and Scarlett Solo (2nd gen) a few months ago for voice recording. I don't have a nice desk boom / mount for it yet though.
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I had the Rode NT1 and NT1A on my short list until I had more conversations with these guys at work. They told me to look into all the reviews comparing the MXL-770 or MXL-990 depending on if I'm recording instruments or vocals. MXL mics are the budget version that's on par with Rode mics in this category for enthusiasts and not pro recording. I paid $54 for the MXL which included the spider shock mount and hard case.
The Rode desk boom is nice but I probably paid a little too much for it.
The Rode desk boom is nice but I probably paid a little too much for it.
Stereodude
Not really a
I bought the NT1 based on the frequency response, the self noise rating, and recommendations of people I know who do audio for a living. I would like a stereo matched pair of AKG C414's, but the right deal hasn't crossed my path yet.
The NT1 is a nice sounding mic from the reviews I've listened to. For what I want to use the mic for, it wasn't worth 5x for the subtle differences in sound. What kind of stuff are you doing to want a pair of the AKG C414s?