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snowhiker

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#82
Is that really a 55 T-Bird? It shouldn't have portholes. :smack:
I couldn't tell you.

Again I only had about 20-30 minutes to take shots (took about 200) of the car show and some of the cars were parked only 2-3 feet apart so I couldn't always move around to the "better" side for a shot. Unfortunately as I went up the street I was basically shooting into the sun so many shots have lens flare. Going back down the other side was better, lighting wise, but more of the "cool" cars were on the "wrong" side of the street.

I wish I had more time to take better shots and maybe talk with car owner(s). I was shooting to capture some images of cars vs taking a "great" photo. At least I squatted down low to get a street level perspective.
 

LunarMist

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#83
I couldn't tell you.

Again I only had about 20-30 minutes to take shots (took about 200) of the car show and some of the cars were parked only 2-3 feet apart so I couldn't always move around to the "better" side for a shot. Unfortunately as I went up the street I was basically shooting into the sun so many shots have lens flare. Going back down the other side was better, lighting wise, but more of the "cool" cars were on the "wrong" side of the street.

I wish I had more time to take better shots and maybe talk with car owner(s). I was shooting to capture some images of cars vs taking a "great" photo. At least I squatted down low to get a street level perspective.
Next time slow down, look around and choose maybe 5 vehicles to photograph.
I've had a number of T-birds, though mainly FE powered, not from the Y block era.
 

snowhiker

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#84
A few birdie pics taken with my 200-500mm tele-zoom:







I went to my back porch and snapped these few shots before work. Roof image is 50 feet and tree pics are about 30 feet from camera to birdie. Lens wide open @ f/5.6 and fully zoomed to 500mm . I was thinking I'd have "more reach," but just need to get used to what I have.

I handheld camera while using the porch pillar to steady myself. Tannin previous listed tip used. Roof shot @ 1/1000 and tree shots were 1/500. VR (or IS for you Canon users) was on while shot was taken. The VR really removes the "jittery-ness" from the viewfinder.

Not 100% happy with the sharpness. Probably/hopefully just camera/image shake. Maybe I don't know what its supposed to look like. I'm currently using just the one center AF point which was held on the head of the bird.

Should I just turn VR off when shooting a "decent" shutter speed? Stop down to f/8 for more DOF or stay at f/5.6 and keep shutter speed up.
 

snowhiker

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#86
This guy on another forum I visit bought this lens and seems to be happy.
I'm not 100% sure if the lens is truly outstanding, or just very damn good for the "low" price of $1400. Some reviews/testers as saying it's better than the, twice-the-price nano-coated gold-ringed, 80-400mm f/4.5-5.6G.

I'll be happy with my 200-500mm as soon as I get my technique down and produce sharper shots.
 

snowhiker

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#87
Some more birdie pics. This time it's a Hummer. S/he was in the shade so ISO is over 2000. Exposure 1/500 @ f/5.6. Lens zoomed to 500mm. First shot lower ISO but also a bit underexposed.









 

Handruin

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#91
The workflow, mainly. Secondarily checking if I can get YouTube to recognize the file as 4k@60.
I have not been able to get YouTube to recognize 4K 60FPS. It automatically converts them down to 1080P 60FPS when I upload videos recorded from ShadowPlay of my gaming events which is really annoying. If you find a way I'd love to know how to do it but a small amount of Google searching suggested it wasn't possible.
 

Handruin

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#93
That one, after being online for more than 12 hours, offered a 4k version. No idea how long before (if?) the 4k60 will show up.
So your source material prior to uploading was 4K@60? I checked mine after a week and still no 4K render was offered from YouTube...
 
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#94
So your source material prior to uploading was 4K@60? I checked mine after a week and still no 4K render was offered from YouTube...
Yup. 3840x2160 at 60FPS. In the past I've even tried higher resolutions (5472 x 3648 @ 120FPS) without luck. No idea what it cares about, and Googling hasn't given me anything useful.
 

Handruin

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#97
I've sen other YouTube videos offer 4k@60, tempted to reach out and find how they did it.
I suspect my issue might be that my source videos are actually 4096x2160 @ 60FPS vs 3840x2160 @ 60 FPS and maybe that's my issue why YouTube won't accept them?
 
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#98
At least one of the posts on this issue I found had the author insisting that their videos would only be recognized as 4k if it was 4096x2160. Lots of mis-information out there I suspect.
 

LunarMist

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#99
How does one know if the videos are 4096K? My monitor is a normal one and I'm not spending over $5K to find out.
Which camera did you finally get that does the 4K videos?
 
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How does one know if the videos are 4096K? My monitor is a normal one and I'm not spending over $5K to find out.
Which camera did you finally get that does the 4K videos?
If you use a decent program to play videos (I like Media Player Classic, it is free and available on ninite.com), you can right-click on the video and choose "Properties".

My phone and GoPro Hero 4 Black can both do 4k video, but most of my recent stuff is timelapses shot using the interval timer built-into the 7DII.
 

Handruin

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At least one of the posts on this issue I found had the author insisting that their videos would only be recognized as 4k if it was 4096x2160. Lots of mis-information out there I suspect.
Quite interestingly when I browse a specific video using Firefox I am not given the option for 4K video but if I use Chrome, I get the 4K option. For example, this video only gives me the 4K @ 60 when using Chrome. Both of my browsers are using the HTML5 video player (not Flash). I still don't see 4K @ 60 for my own videos using Chrome. I was trying to produce a few sample test videos but my version of Premiere won't allow me to export a clip at 4K @ 60FPS. I assume I need a newer version than CS 5.5.

I was able to get my 4K @ 30 FPS test video working here.
 

snowhiker

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A few more hummingbird shots. I think it's the same bird as last time. They are social birds. He was preening for me. Opening/closing his eyes. Scratching himself. Long tongue sticking out, etc. I was able to take some shot, slowly move a few feet closer, take some more shots. Repeat. I probably got within 10-12 feet or so.

I obviously don't have a sports/action/birder camera. It's not much of an issue only having 6 fps, the main issue is the non-existent buffer. 14-bit Lossless-compressed RAW + FINE jpg shooting = only 10 shot buffer. A little more fps would be nice, but more importantly a larger buffer is a must for this type of shooting.

Perhaps Lunar or Tannin could chime in and comment on the sharpness of the shots? Are they sharp, pretty sharp, crap? They are hand-held so that might be a problem. So hand-held 1/500 or 1/1000 sec f/5.6 or f/8 some with and without VR/IS. Image shake? JPG compression? Bird too small in frame? ISO? Lens quality? MUCH THANKS.













 

LunarMist

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A few more hummingbird shots. I think it's the same bird as last time. They are social birds. He was preening for me. Opening/closing his eyes. Scratching himself. Long tongue sticking out, etc. I was able to take some shot, slowly move a few feet closer, take some more shots. Repeat. I probably got within 10-12 feet or so.

I obviously don't have a sports/action/birder camera. It's not much of an issue only having 6 fps, the main issue is the non-existent buffer. 14-bit Lossless-compressed RAW + FINE jpg shooting = only 10 shot buffer. A little more fps would be nice, but more importantly a larger buffer is a must for this type of shooting.

Perhaps Lunar or Tannin could chime in and comment on the sharpness of the shots? Are they sharp, pretty sharp, crap? They are hand-held so that might be a problem. So hand-held 1/500 or 1/1000 sec f/5.6 or f/8 some with and without VR/IS. Image shake? JPG compression? Bird too small in frame? ISO? Lens quality? MUCH THANKS.
What is your purpose in capturing the images? If it is high quality print, then you need to get much closer.
If it is only for the web, then crop tightly. Nobody wants to see all that dead space. ;)
I don't usually judge quality of web images, only the RAW files. The small part that is in focus looks OK. Try to isolate the bird on a different branch and stop down to f/8 if possible.
Can you set up a feeder so that the bird will be in the same area frequently? FWIW hummers are not exactly social; you'll see them chasing and fighting for territory, especially the males.
The OS should always be on. Why only ISO 220? Increase it to 400+ for the FF Nikon body.
The framing rate and buffer are fine for most purposes. Sheesh, 600mm and 6FPS was dream combination just a decade and a half ago.
Back in the 1970s I was shooting hummers about 1/2 frame with VPS and a lens that maxed out at 210mm. You need to be closer. :lol:

I wish I could remember passwords and upload to my website to post some examples.
 

snowhiker

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What is your purpose in capturing the images? If it is high quality print, then you need to get much closer.
If it is only for the web, then crop tightly. Nobody wants to see all that dead space. ;)
I don't usually judge quality of web images, only the RAW files. The small part that is in focus looks OK. Try to isolate the bird on a different branch and stop down to f/8 if possible.
Can you set up a feeder so that the bird will be in the same area frequently? FWIW hummers are not exactly social; you'll see them chasing and fighting for territory, especially the males.
The OS should always be on. Why only ISO 220? Increase it to 400+ for the FF Nikon body.
The framing rate and buffer are fine for most purposes. Sheesh, 600mm and 6FPS was dream combination just a decade and a half ago.
Back in the 1970s I was shooting hummers about 1/2 frame with VPS and a lens that maxed out at 210mm. You need to be closer. :lol:

I wish I could remember passwords and upload to my website to post some examples.
First thing, MUCH THANKS for the feedback.

1) No printing for now. Cropping is needed for sure. I just posted the JPG out of camera (after increasing the compression in paint.net to get image under 8MB for hosting). So no cropping/post processing yet.

2) Yeah I think f/8 works a bit better than wide open at f/5.6 and with direct sun on bird I can shoot 1/1000 @ f/8, ISO 400-500'ish.

3) Well I guess by themselves hummers are social, but 2+ males and they chase and fight each other all the time. I've had hummers hover 18" away from my face for 30+ seconds at a time as they check me out. When watering plants with a hose I've had birds hover right next to the end of the hose taking a shower. Once a poor bird got a bit too close to the stream and was knocked to the ground but he flew away OK. So social by themselves, in 2+ groups, not so much.

4) Going to aim for ISO 400 or so and not shoot if light doesn't give me enough shutter speed or f/8.

5) I'm finding that out. The FPS not a huge problem for me at 6 FPS, just the lack of a buffer.

6) I'm going to setup some feeders. I think hummers will always be smallish in frame @ 500mm unless I get close to the 7.25 foot close focus distance of my lens. Maybe next year, if I have the monies, I'll look into a crop body for more reach. Maybe.

7) No way to recover password? Email admin? Use another imagehost site? I'd love to see some good pro work?

Again thanks for the input. Much appreciated.
 

LunarMist

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I did not realize the lens did not focus very close. One can add some extension tubes.

I assumed the D610 was in the 70MB/sec.+ range, but perhaps not. What is the write speed? I know the SD slot on the D600, D800 and some other older bodies were capped in the upper 30MB/sec. range. The later bodies such as the D810, D750, D7100/D7200 write about twice as fast. In any case, shoot RAW only to increase throughput.
 

snowhiker

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I did not realize the lens did not focus very close. One can add some extension tubes.
Per Nikon the close focus distance is 7.2 feet or 2.2 meters for the 200-500mm f/5.6E lens.

I assumed the D610 was in the 70MB/sec.+ range, but perhaps not. What is the write speed? I know the SD slot on the D600, D800 and some other older bodies were capped in the upper 30MB/sec. range. The later bodies such as the D810, D750, D7100/D7200 write about twice as fast. In any case, shoot RAW only to increase throughput.
I'm currently using this SanDisk Extreme SD card which is rated at 40 MB/s. So I may be limited by SD card. I may have to buy one "high speed" SD card to see if I'm card limited or camera limited as far as write speed goes.
 

LunarMist

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Per Nikon the close focus distance is 7.2 feet or 2.2 meters for the 200-500mm f/5.6E lens.



I'm currently using this SanDisk Extreme SD card which is rated at 40 MB/s. So I may be limited by SD card. I may have to buy one "high speed" SD card to see if I'm card limited or camera limited as far as write speed goes.
You want the 64GB or 32GB Extreme Pro cards for action.
 

LunarMist

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These helped me considerably. My camera takes one SD and one CF and I splashed out on one very fast of each. If I manage to fill them I can go to the slower cards (unlikely, they are 128GB each).
There are no Canon cameras in recent times that support both CF and SD that are not significantly faster with CF cards. Using two cards at the same time will result is a slowdown and/or reduced buffer capacity.
 

snowhiker

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You want the 64GB or 32GB Extreme Pro cards for action.
I went ahead and picked up two of those 64 GB Extreme Pro cards for $43/each @ B&H. Adorama, Walmart, Newegg, Amazon, etc were all the same $43/each, while BestBuy, or is it WorseBuy is charging $75/each for the same card?!?

These helped me considerably. My camera takes one SD and one CF and I splashed out on one very fast of each. If I manage to fill them I can go to the slower cards (unlikely, they are 128GB each).
Yeah 128 GB is going to be a whole bunch of shots, 1700+, RAW+JPGs at least. I hope the faster cards help a bit, but as Lunar mentioned my D610 my be the limiting factor but I guess I'll find out.
 

LunarMist

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BH or secondarily Adorama are good choices because they sell legit retail cards. I would not buy memory cards from Amazon as they source from multiple suppliers and some have been found to be counterfeit. :(
Are you sending NEF to one card and JPG to another? For personal use (not shooting on deadline), I suggest capturing NEFs only which will improve the buffer throughput. Are you shooting in losslessly compressed 14-bit mode?
 

snowhiker

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Are you sending NEF to one card and JPG to another? For personal use (not shooting on deadline), I suggest capturing NEFs only which will improve the buffer throughput. Are you shooting in losslessly compressed 14-bit mode?
I'm shooting RAW+JPG to one card. 14-bit lossless compressed RAW + fine-mode JPGs. I'm also mirroring (raid-1) the two SD slots. So I'm setup for the slowest possible write speeds.

I've been taking a 2-3 shot bursts, wait a few seconds, then another short burst trying to capture the birdies before they fly away. I'll just have a wait a bit longer between bursts to keep from overflowing the buffer.

I should probably just shoot JPG as I'm not doing anything with the RAWs as of yet. But then if by some miracle I take an actually good shot I won't have the RAW. Hopefully the faster cards will help.
 

LunarMist

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I'm shooting RAW+JPG to one card. 14-bit lossless compressed RAW + fine-mode JPGs. I'm also mirroring (raid-1) the two SD slots. So I'm setup for the slowest possible write speeds.

I've been taking a 2-3 shot bursts, wait a few seconds, then another short burst trying to capture the birdies before they fly away. I'll just have a wait a bit longer between bursts to keep from overflowing the buffer.

I should probably just shoot JPG as I'm not doing anything with the RAWs as of yet. But then if by some miracle I take an actually good shot I won't have the RAW. Hopefully the faster cards will help.
It's a bit excessive to write to both cards. It is not like RAID 1, because there are not two separate channels in the cameras to write completely in parallel.
I did not even know it was an option to record 4 copies of the same image in camera. Are you paranoid about card failure? Do you fully test each new card with a complete write and read a few times?
If you need jpegs immediately for some reason, then send them to one card and RAW to the other. Capture NX-D is free and easy to use, so there is not much reason to record jpegs at all.
 

snowhiker

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It's a bit excessive to write to both cards. It is not like RAID 1, because there are not two separate channels in the cameras to write completely in parallel.
I did not even know it was an option to record 4 copies of the same image in camera. Are you paranoid about card failure? Do you fully test each new card with a complete write and read a few times?
If you need jpegs immediately for some reason, then send them to one card and RAW to the other. Capture NX-D is free and easy to use, so there is not much reason to record jpegs at all.
Yeah, you can write RAW+JPG to one card and camera will mirror those to second card. So yeah, 4 image copies per shot. Now that I think about it, that's a bit excessive. I think I'll only mirror the SD cards in vacation/location/bummer-if-a-card-failed situations.

I did not do a full read/write test on the cards before use. Just formatted them in camera. I should probably do a full test on all my cards.

It looks like a new NX-D v1.3.0 has been released, blurb here. I installed v1.2.1 about a week ago and was going to start playing with it, but I'll get the newer version and start using it.
 

snowhiker

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A few additional shots of some quayles. First two are "action" shots of the birds eating some seeds I sprinkled on the block wall. Last two are consecutive shots that look like they are actually in focus. Late afternoon and sun dipped behind the house next door so the ISO was going way up so I quickly dropped back to f/5.6 and shutter to 1/160 sec. I actually got close enough to zoom back a bit to 400mm or so. As bird walked around wall he came into the sun and ISO dropped back to lower levels.

Still have a bit to go on the fundamentals of actually capturing the shot and quickly adjusting things on-the-fly. Then I can tackle the hard part of taking a good picture. Subject, composition, framing, eye catching, interesting, and POST PROCESSING.

As always comments/suggestions welcome.








 

snowhiker

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Do you have some potatoe to go with that quayle? :lol:
If TEOTWAWKI* happens I'll only need a few bags of bird seed to lure the quayle and I'll eat like a king. Tons of big fat quayle running around here.



*The End Of The World As We Know It
 

Chewy509

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Here are two pictures of our son's Christmas present...

DSCF3195_2.jpg

DSCF3207_2.jpg

She bit my wife, and my wife said the bite was one of the worst bites she's ever experienced. (and that includes being bitten by spiders and snakes (pythons)).
 
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