Some work on my A3

[ddrueding]

In case anyone was wondering what would happen if you hit a 2x4 @ 70mph+, I present the following pictures.



Looks like the tire has had it, and Forgestar's official response on the wheel is that they do not perform repairs. Does this even look repairable? I know the tire is to be considered unsafe at this point (blistered sidewall) but what about the wheel?

 

[Chewy509]

double-post

 

[Chewy509]

IIRC, most alloy type rims can't be repaired as the heating process to make the metal malleable so it can be repaired will actually harden the metal making it brittle. (And just pushing/hammering it back without heat will leave micro-fractures which are just as dangerous).

IIRC, I've never heard of anyone repairing them anyway.

 

[jtr1962]

Looks like the tire has had it, and Forgestar's official response on the wheel is that they do not perform repairs. Does this even look repairable? I know the tire is to be considered unsafe at this point (blistered sidewall) but what about the wheel?

If it was a steel wheel I would say yes but with aluminum I have my doubts. Not all aluminum alloys can be hammered back into shape like steel (i.e. cold forged). It might result in loss of strength, microcracks, etc. If it were a bike wheel I might chance trying to hammer it back given the much lower loads and speeds. In any case, when a wheel takes a hard enough hit to deform it like that I would be leery of using it. Even assuming you could hammer it back to shape, there might be damage in several places, notably the "spokes" (don't know the proper name for the part on the wheel which performs the same function as spokes on a bicycle wheel). I wouldn't trust my life to a repaired wheel, although some people do attempt it. There are also aluminum wheel repair specialists.

EDIT: Chewy basically said the same thing.

 

[time]

Looks like merely cosmetic damage to me. If it's holding pressure, you could just leave it (the wheel, not the tire).

I'd take it to a reputable repairer or tire shop and see what they say.

 

[P5-133XL]

In case anyone was wondering what would happen if you hit a 2x4 @ 70mph+,

Consider yourself lucky that that is the only damage. With an event like that, It would be very easy to lose control and for very bad things happen.

You might want to have the front end examined for damage and re-aligned.

 

[mubs]

Your tyre could fail anytime without warning. I'd replace it pronto, if I were you. The rim's condition is more difficult to assess. You may want to wait and see how it holds up. Don't exceed posted speed limits in the meantime. And what Mark said.

 

[ddrueding]

Thanks all for the replies, I'd agree that the rim (if functionally damaged) should be replaced. I suppose I'll have a better look at it when I have the tires swapped.

Consider yourself lucky that that is the only damage. With an event like that, It would be very easy to lose control and for very bad things happen.

You might want to have the front end examined for damage and re-aligned.

My regular tire shop has all the equipment to handle this, so we'll see what they have to say. Agreed that the tire is a risk. Not sure how much exactly, but replacing it will be a priority.

 

[Handruin]

Sorry to hear a 2x4 crossed paths with you and your vehicle. In case of situations like these, I opted to insure my wheels for theft and damage. I think it worked out to be $24/year extra which is well worth it considering the cost of replacing a wheel.

 

[timwhit]

Interesting. Does this cover tires as well? My wheels and tires are constantly getting busted from the potholes in Chicago.

 

[Handruin]

No, I only asked to insure my wheels but there may be a policy for the tires also. I guess it depends on your insurance agency.

 

[mubs]

Many tire shops have insurance for tires that they sell when you buy tires from them. It covers all road hazards, whether it's your fault or not.

 

[ddrueding]

And the part of my bad day that goes here:

Colder than normal when I started up this morning (53F). Check Engine light started blinking and then went solid on. Engine Protection Circuitry light went on within seconds (AKA limp mode). Brought it back to the house and the following error codes show:

Friday,27,September,2013,09:52:52:26506
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
VCDS Version: Release 12.12.0 (x64)
Data version: 20130910


VIN: * License Plate:
Mileage: 99420km-61776mi Repair Order:


Chassis Type: FM (8P0)
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 0F 15 16 17 19 22 25 42 44 46 47 4C 52 55 56
62 72 77

VIN: * Mileage: 99420km/61776miles

01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
02-Auto Trans -- Status: OK 0000
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000
0F-Digital Radio -- Status: Malfunction 0010
15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000
16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000
17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: OK 0000
22-AWD -- Status: OK 0000
25-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 0000
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000
44-Steering Assist -- Status: OK 0000
46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000
47-Sound System -- Status: OK 0000
4C-Tire Pressure II -- Status: OK 0000
52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000
55-Xenon Range -- Status: OK 0000
56-Radio -- Status: OK 0000
62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000
72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000
77-Telephone -- Status: OK 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine (CCT) Labels: 06J-906-026-CCT.clb
Part No SW: 8P0 907 115 AS HW: 8P0 907 115 Q
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0020
Revision: AAH17--- Serial number: AUX7Z0J5FN90MW
Coding: 0103010A1C0F0160
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: 8305B7B4C2721206091-80D6

5 Faults Found:
000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 000 -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 23
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 96525 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2013.08.19
Time: 11:21:48

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1701 /min
Load: 40.0 %
Speed: 44.0 km/h
Temperature: 35.0°C
Temperature: 30.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1010.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.970 V

000771 - Cylinder 3
P0303 - 000 - Misfire Detected - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 23
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 96525 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2013.08.19
Time: 11:21:53

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1645 /min
Load: 29.8 %
Speed: 43.0 km/h
Temperature: 36.0°C
Temperature: 30.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1010.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.843 V

005386 - Engine Off Timer Performance
P150A - 000 - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2047.15.31
Time: 31:63:63

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 245 /min
Load: 61.5 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 57.0°C
Temperature: 50.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 990.0 mbar
Voltage: 10.668 V

000769 - Cylinder 1
P0301 - 000 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 98768 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2013.09.20
Time: 13:54:46

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 3246 /min
Load: 99.6 %
Speed: 43.0 km/h
Temperature: 60.0°C
Temperature: 38.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.589 V

004874 - Cylinder Disabling
P130A - 000 - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 99429 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2013.09.27
Time: 09:25:18

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1187 /min
Load: 38.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 21.0°C
Temperature: 14.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1020.0 mbar
Voltage: 14.224 V

Readiness: 0000 0000


End ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Saved the log, reset the codes, restarted the car twice, and the EPC light went off (CEL is now solid). Probably safe to drive, but I hope to not have to until I can take it to my mechanic.

My mechanic is out doing the SuperBike World Championships at Laguna Seca (about 10 miles away). So I'll be lucky to get him before Monday. I'm off to start Googling, but anyone here have any thoughts?

 

[Striker]

I'm far from being a mechanic, and you've probably figured out this much on your own, but I would say a misfire tends to be related to the spark. I don't know anything about your car, but my first checks would be spark plugs and try new plug wires.
Cars are too complicated anymore though, and I would more likely just take it to the dealer to check it out if my preferred mechanic wasn't available.

 

[ddrueding]

The dealer in my area is not to be spoken to or looked at. I wouldn't accept a fire extinguisher from him if my car was alight. There are many fantastic dealers in the Bay Area, closes is about 50 miles away.

From my searching of the internet so far, the most common problem with these symptoms seems to be dirty valves.

 

[Handruin]

Carbon buildup was the first thing I thought of before reading your link.

 

[Stereodude]

Coilpacks would be my first guess.

 

[ddrueding]

So if it is a valve cleaning it seems that requires a shop and about $800.

Coilpacks are about $90. Seems swapping them is possible in my garage, what is the likelihood I could install them myself?

Even if I have to do the valves anyway (seems everyone is having issues), that is a low price to pay just to be sure.

 

[mubs]

An off-beat comment, especially since I know so little about modern cars: VAG cars are known to throw out a lot of funky codes when the battery starts dying, most typically the ECL. Your car has already done 60k miles +. Before you do anything else, suggest you invest $10 one of those led battery health gizmos. Or, use a multimeter - sure you have one.

 

[Howell]

Coilpacks would be my first guess.

Mine too. And mubs idea is good.

 

[ddrueding]

Thanks for the tips on the battery, I replaced the battery in the other one (an '09) over a year ago. So, in order to do things from cheapest to most expensive, battery, coilpacks, intake.

Sounds like a plan, thanks all!

 

[ddrueding]

Swapped the coil packs 1<>2 and 3<>4. If 1 and 3 were misfiring, they'll either follow the coilpacks or they won't. Right?

 

[Stereodude]

Yeah, that's the theory.

 

[ddrueding]

Replaced the plugs even though they looked fine. Swapped the coils and the misfires are still on cylinders 1 and 3.

I'm noticing that it only happens when the engine is cold, particularly when it is humid/damp out.

My mechanic is suggesting that we might try a portion of the wiring harness next. Apparently there is a rebuild kit for just the ends that connect to the coils that gets soldered back in to the rest further from the hot engine.

 

[Handruin]

Sorry man. That sounds frustrating to deal with. I hope the next round of troubleshooting gets it sorted out for you.

 

[ddrueding]

Thanks. The only part that worries me is when the CEL is blinking, indicating that fuel is being dumped down the exhaust and igniting in the cat causing damage. That and having to keep the laptop and cable in the car to clear the EPC codes from time to time.

I spend half my time looking up fixes and the other half here.

 

[Handruin]

Thanks. The only part that worries me is when the CEL is blinking, indicating that fuel is being dumped down the exhaust and igniting in the cat causing damage. That and having to keep the laptop and cable in the car to clear the EPC codes from time to time.

I spend half my time looking up fixes and the other half here.

Well...being someone who enjoys cars, I don't have a great argument to persuade you away from the model S. From a cost perspective, it'd be far cheaper to just replace all the wires and even do a valve cleaning even if you're unsure it'll solve your issue. Then again...cars.

I send my buddy pics of all the Model Ss I've seen in my area. He's a huge fan of the company even though he's not much of a car guy. I've seen 4-5 of them and they even have a local store-front in my town. Range-anxiety (and cost) keeps me at bay with their car.

 

[ddrueding]

In case anyone was wondering what would happen if you hit a 2x4 @ 70mph+, I present the following pictures.

View attachment 641View attachment 642View attachment 643

Looks like the tire has had it, and Forgestar's official response on the wheel is that they do not perform repairs. Does this even look repairable? I know the tire is to be considered unsafe at this point (blistered sidewall) but what about the wheel?

Finally replaced the tires with PZero Rosso. Looking at the inside of that blister makes me feel pretty lucky it survived another 2,000 miles. The damage to the wheel was indeed cosmetic, and didn't even significantly impact the balance.

 

[ddrueding]

Looking to get a fairly comprehensive service manual for my cars. One is an '09, and the manual is available. The other is an '11 with direct fuel injection and a dual-clutch gearbox. I can't find a reputable service manual for it anywhere. Help?

 

[mubs]

Is the '11 an Audi A3 as well?

 

[ddrueding]

Yup.

 

[ddrueding]

APR Turbo-back exhaust ordered. Plans for the intercooler, intake, and stage 2 ECU.

The Tesla can wait

 

[Stereodude]

What about the downpipe and upgraded fuel pump?

 

[ddrueding]

I was under the impression that the turbo-back included the down pipe? can't check on my phone...

 

[Stereodude]

It does... I missed that detail.

 

[ddrueding]

The fuel pump might happen at some point. I've decided to learn more about cars by doing the work myself (with guidance). The jack and stands arrived today, I think I already own the other tools I'll need. I'm starting with what I would consider one of the easier jobs (second to the intake) and will build up from there. The intercooler seems slightly more involved, the fuel pump much more so.

 

[Handruin]

Sounds like a nice project. I haven't looked up the mods but what's the expected WHP gain with these changes?

Did you ever get your misfire/CEL resolved?

 

[ddrueding]

Sounds like a nice project. I haven't looked up the mods but what's the expected WHP gain with these changes?

Did you ever get your misfire/CEL resolved?

The thing I am most interested in is torque from 2000-3000RPM. (+75lb-ft@3000)

The peak numbers are +71 HP @ 4,250 RPM and +87 TQ @ 4,200 RPM.

I have mostly identified the problem (coil packs/wires/battery) but haven't put into place permanent fixes yet.

 

[ddrueding]

It does... I missed that detail.

It isn't entirely obvious, so I've sent them an e-mail asking for clarification.

 

[Handruin]

The thing I am most interested in is torque from 2000-3000RPM. (+75lb-ft@3000)

The peak numbers are +71 HP @ 4,250 RPM and +87 TQ @ 4,200 RPM.

I have mostly identified the problem (coil packs/wires/battery) but haven't put into place permanent fixes yet.

That's a nice jump in HP and TRQ. Looks like 3100RPM is peak torque which is really nice. That should feel like a whole new car.