ddrueding
Fixture
That is the hope. If it can keep me from buying a Model S for 2 years that would save me a ton of cash.
Some work on my A3
- Thread starter ddrueding
- Start date
That is the hope. If it can keep me from buying a Model S for 2 years that would save me a ton of cash.
ddrueding
Fixture
Found this picture on the downpipe page.
ddrueding
Fixture
After some back-and-forth with their head tech, it turns out that their current exhaust does not work with AWD cars. They are working on one, but don't have it out yet. They do have a 3" downpipe available (same as the Golf R). Previous order cancelled.
New order:
3" Downpipe
Carbino Intake
Intercooler
Still no fuel pump, but that should clear me for 90% of a "Stage II". I've found a shop 12 miles away that is an authorized APR reseller and can do the flash while I wait.
New order:
3" Downpipe
Carbino Intake
Intercooler
Still no fuel pump, but that should clear me for 90% of a "Stage II". I've found a shop 12 miles away that is an authorized APR reseller and can do the flash while I wait.
Howell
Storage? I am Storage!
You buying the new cat now or later?
ddrueding
Fixture
The cat is included in the downpipe, which is why it costs $800 and the entire TBE is only $1300.
Stereodude
Not really a
That's a bit of an oversight on their part considering they don't have it listed anywhere on their webpage.
ddrueding
Fixture
Indeed. Fortunately they make you enter your vehicle specs in the order form, so they contacted me as soon as they saw the conflict.
ddrueding
Fixture
3" downpipe installed. Involved relocating the driveshaft to reach one of the bolts. They claim the intercooler can go in without removing the front clip; we'll find out tonight.
ddrueding
Fixture
The intercooler is the middle part of a sandwich with the AC in front and the radiator in back. The whole unit had to be removed, to get to it involved the front clip, headlights, bumper assembly, undertray, etc. Still great instructions, just a big project.
Are you able to get 93 octane in your area? I thought 92 was the highest. I think that means you won't get the claimed full amount out of HP/tq gains that APRs stg II tune offers because you'll have to take the 91 octane map.
ddrueding
Fixture
When I'm calculating my ROI, I am looking at the 91 map. But there are pumps with everything up to 110 octane 12.2 miles away from me at Laguna Seca raceway. Just swipe your credit card and go, if you are willing to pay the price ($9/gal).
ddrueding
Fixture
Finally decided to follow up with APR on my Carbino Intake after a month of it being on back-order. No response other than a tracking number. What a coincidence.
And on the way home today my rear-right brake started screeching (low pad), so the StopTech sport kit (4-wheel, slotted rotors, pads, braided lines) should be here next week.
Oh, and the Braille Li-ion car battery (<10lbs!) arrived today.
And on the way home today my rear-right brake started screeching (low pad), so the StopTech sport kit (4-wheel, slotted rotors, pads, braided lines) should be here next week.
Oh, and the Braille Li-ion car battery (<10lbs!) arrived today.
The concept of paying those prices for a car battery is unfathomable, to me. Yes, I know they are outright better than standard lead-acid but still.
Will a car's charging system work well for Li-ion batteries or will it cause premature death?
Will a car's charging system work well for Li-ion batteries or will it cause premature death?
ddrueding
Fixture
I was able to not pay that price 
And any performance above the standard battery is secondary to me. The goal is to shave as much weight as possible from the car (~35 pounds from the front of the car in this case), bonus points if it is from the front or top, double bonus points if it is un-sprung weight.
It would be great if I could shave 500 pounds from the factory weight. The wheels saved 60 pounds, the two piece rotors should be a nice bit as well (20?). My mechanic said the down pipe was lighter than the factory bit, but the bigger intercooler made those two parts a wash. Carbon panels will help considerably (hood and fenders are easy (50?). Doors(100?) and hatch(50?) would be harder). Perhaps swapping the giant motorized glass roof for a fixed polycarbonate panel (love all the light in the cabin, but I can't remember the last time I opened it)-100 pounds?) How about the motorized, heated seats? Ditching the head-unit in favor of a simple amp and my cellphone? The spare and jack have already been replaced with a AAA card and a can of fix-a-flat.
Yes, this could be a long road to madness. But at least I'm starting off slow.
And any performance above the standard battery is secondary to me. The goal is to shave as much weight as possible from the car (~35 pounds from the front of the car in this case), bonus points if it is from the front or top, double bonus points if it is un-sprung weight.
It would be great if I could shave 500 pounds from the factory weight. The wheels saved 60 pounds, the two piece rotors should be a nice bit as well (20?). My mechanic said the down pipe was lighter than the factory bit, but the bigger intercooler made those two parts a wash. Carbon panels will help considerably (hood and fenders are easy (50?). Doors(100?) and hatch(50?) would be harder). Perhaps swapping the giant motorized glass roof for a fixed polycarbonate panel (love all the light in the cabin, but I can't remember the last time I opened it)-100 pounds?) How about the motorized, heated seats? Ditching the head-unit in favor of a simple amp and my cellphone? The spare and jack have already been replaced with a AAA card and a can of fix-a-flat.
Yes, this could be a long road to madness. But at least I'm starting off slow.
I was able to not pay that price
And any performance above the standard battery is secondary to me. The goal is to shave as much weight as possible from the car (~35 pounds from the front of the car in this case), bonus points if it is from the front or top, double bonus points if it is un-sprung weight.
It would be great if I could shave 500 pounds from the factory weight. The wheels saved 60 pounds, the two piece rotors should be a nice bit as well (20?). My mechanic said the down pipe was lighter than the factory bit, but the bigger intercooler made those two parts a wash. Carbon panels will help considerably (hood and fenders are easy (50?). Doors(100?) and hatch(50?) would be harder). Perhaps swapping the giant motorized glass roof for a fixed polycarbonate panel (love all the light in the cabin, but I can't remember the last time I opened it)-100 pounds?) How about the motorized, heated seats? Ditching the head-unit in favor of a simple amp and my cellphone? The spare and jack have already been replaced with a AAA card and a can of fix-a-flat.
Yes, this could be a long road to madness. But at least I'm starting off slow.
Would it make more sense to build up a second race-purposed car rather than lose some of the creature comforts you paid for in getting the A3? I get the weight reductions with the wheels, brakes, even battery. Once you start tearing out seats, sound-deadening, panels, stereo, etc, I feel like it takes away from what the car was built for originally. None the less, I'm interested to see how it turns out.
ddrueding
Fixture
I don't want a race car. I don't even plan on auto crossing, and I don't want to sacrifice the bits of luxury that I like or change the look of the car. I've even added some sound deadening strategically in some weak spots. The seats I was considering as an upgrade are ventilated (something my current seats don't have) and heated, but skip the heavy motors (I'm the only one who drives this car). I don't plan on pulling the entire stereo, just the head unit (that I don't use) in favor of a better mounting position for my phone (which I do).
In many ways this is crazier than building a racing car; trying to make it considerably faster and more specialized to my needs and a more comfortable place to be. I want it to be my ultimate daily driver.
In many ways this is crazier than building a racing car; trying to make it considerably faster and more specialized to my needs and a more comfortable place to be. I want it to be my ultimate daily driver.
ddrueding
Fixture
The Recaro OEM seats from the RS3 look tempting...
https://www.recaro-automotive.com/u...nal-equipment/products/audi-rs3/audi-rs3.html
https://www.recaro-automotive.com/u...nal-equipment/products/audi-rs3/audi-rs3.html
Those look really nice. Any idea what the price is per seat?
ddrueding
Fixture
In the 3 series Audi, they haven't offered an S or RS version in the US in a long time (ever?). I really like the smaller car, but more importantly I love hatchbacks. Not just the practicality, but the look. Audi doesn't even offer a hatchback 3 in the US anymore.
But even if they did offer an S3 hatchback in the US, it has the same 2l I-4 base engine as the A3. So the only difference is some bolt-on bits that I can do better than in the aftermarket already.
But even if they did offer an S3 hatchback in the US, it has the same 2l I-4 base engine as the A3. So the only difference is some bolt-on bits that I can do better than in the aftermarket already.
Audi S3 Plus is rumored to be 375HP. That's not the same engine you have.
http://m.autoblog.com/2014/01/23/audi-planning-s3-plus-375-hp/
ddrueding
Fixture
Might be the same block, APR claims 400hp at the crank for their stage III kit. The engine I drool over is the 2.5l I-5 that the RS3 used to have (mentioned in your article). That thing has tons of potential.
ddrueding
Fixture
Some issues:
1. APR 3" Downpipe, when mounted to factory exhaust using factory mounts (per instructions) scraped the drive shaft just enough under strong deceleration to cause the loudest howl of all time. Slight modifications to the mount resolved this issue.
2. Carbino intake doesn't seem to be the right one for my car, at least my mechanic and I can't figure it out. I'll call them Monday and find out what is going on.
3. StopTech brake kit is right on the front but wrong on the rear. I used their website to find the correct model numbers, but the rear rotors are 4mm too large and the braided lines have the wrong connector.
4. CEL light is still on, with minor missfire when starting cold in damp conditions. Resolves itself within 2 minutes. Changed plugs, coils, coil wires, inspected intake for carbon build-up. Nothing. Grr.
The good news is that my mechanic was able to find an annoying rattle in the back while fiddling with it; the brake pad shim in the rear-right had broken in half and part was loose.
1. APR 3" Downpipe, when mounted to factory exhaust using factory mounts (per instructions) scraped the drive shaft just enough under strong deceleration to cause the loudest howl of all time. Slight modifications to the mount resolved this issue.
2. Carbino intake doesn't seem to be the right one for my car, at least my mechanic and I can't figure it out. I'll call them Monday and find out what is going on.
3. StopTech brake kit is right on the front but wrong on the rear. I used their website to find the correct model numbers, but the rear rotors are 4mm too large and the braided lines have the wrong connector.
4. CEL light is still on, with minor missfire when starting cold in damp conditions. Resolves itself within 2 minutes. Changed plugs, coils, coil wires, inspected intake for carbon build-up. Nothing. Grr.
The good news is that my mechanic was able to find an annoying rattle in the back while fiddling with it; the brake pad shim in the rear-right had broken in half and part was loose.
I hope you aren't up for an emissions test anytime soon. As I recently found out the CEL light is an auto-fail as far as the tests are concerned.
ddrueding
Fixture
Yup, I know it is. And I may already be late for one. I was just notified that my registration is already overdue (never received the letter in the mail and never noticed myself).
ddrueding
Fixture
Bit ambitious for a weeknight...parts shops around here aren't open at midnight.
mubs
Storage? I am Storage!
Ouch!
ddrueding
Fixture
Nope, just wiring in the phone cradle with integrated charger and looking for a slick way to get the NFC/BT audio gateway wired in (my car is old enough that the stock BT doesn't do music).
ddrueding
Fixture
Almost got away with it. Got in, did the wiring I wanted, modified the trim as necessary, and started re-assembly. Once I had the dash put back together (radio, climate, etc) I hooked the battery back up to confirm functionality. Everything worked the first time to my surprise. As I was climbing out of the car, I knocked a socket into the open port where the seat connects (seat belt sensor, heated seat, airbag, seat adjustments, etc). Sparks flew as the socket danced across the pins shorting who knows what.
Disconnected the battery. Reassembled the rest of the car. Now I have errors everywhere; can't communicate with the ABS or TPM sensors. Airbag sensors are showing as tripped. Limited communication on the transmission data bus. Crap. Checked the fuses, none of them blew.
The car will start, so it is going into the shop tomorrow morning. Hoping I didn't destroy some of the computers.
Disconnected the battery. Reassembled the rest of the car. Now I have errors everywhere; can't communicate with the ABS or TPM sensors. Airbag sensors are showing as tripped. Limited communication on the transmission data bus. Crap. Checked the fuses, none of them blew.
The car will start, so it is going into the shop tomorrow morning. Hoping I didn't destroy some of the computers.
Stereodude
Not really a
Yikes... That's likely going to be expensive.
mubs
Storage? I am Storage!
Hopefully it just needs a ton of resets?
time
Storage? I am Storage!
I, for one, can't wait for the next installment in how Dave reduces a $40k car to a smoldering pile of junk ... :bigeek:
ddrueding
Fixture
I would hope so, but I fear Stereodude is right. I haven't tried resetting the codes yet; I want them sitting there for my mechanic to look at, but none of the fuses blew (frustrating). That makes me think that electronics have gone.
Step one was putting 70k miles on it and reducing it to a $22k car with some issues already
At that point it is more of a really expensive toy.Stereodude
Not really a
No update?
ddrueding
Fixture
Sorry guys, I thought I had posted a response from my phone earlier. All is well; he ended up doing something beyond clearing the codes (re-initialization?) a couple times, along with a full reboot (disconnecting battery) and all the codes went away. It seems I dodged a serious bullet.
And the phone mount is super clean
And the phone mount is super clean
mubs
Storage? I am Storage!
I'm glad there wasn't major damage, DD.
And congrats on the fine job with the phone mount!
And congrats on the fine job with the phone mount!