Does anyone have the full body test?
Yep, I have a mm wave radar scanner like they use at the airport in my basement.I was thinking of the scanner.
Full of specific and exact details and no ambiguity (aside from the technical error), can't write a cogent and understandable post about what happened to his shoe or a what he really is asking about a "full body test". Clearly you can make sense when you want to. Do you think so little of us that you can't be bothered to spend the time to write posts that make sense?DeltaE is a measure of uniformity, not accuracy to a given colorspace across the luminance range.
The maximum gamut is typically dependent on the optoelectronic properties of the display. sRGB is rather small.
There is a LUT to map the input to the output (gamma curve). In a cheap display the LUT is fixed and not user accessible.
Software based correction has to be used which does not have as many bits to create a smooth curve, especially with a full range of color spaces.
A good display has a 14- or 16-bit LUT that can be accessed with the calibrator software or by optical calibrators connected directly to the display.
A few of the better displays have a built-on calibrator that pops into position for calibration.
sed, does that mean you're living on campus or is that money just tuition?
So I discovered today that when I plugged in my new server/NAS into my gigabit switch 11 days ago I unplugged the uplink to my 10/100 PoE switch that my security cameras are connected to and used that port for the new server/NAS. So, I haven't been recording anything for the past 11 days. Ooops... :bstd:
Well, I was bound to notice it eventually since that's the only thing my old server is really still being used for. I need to pull the drive from the old server and put it in the new server and make the cameras save their to footage to it. Then I should be able to pull the old one. I would have noticed the drive was completely blank when moving the drive since it automatically scrubs footage after a certain number of days.Good catch. With my luck I wouldn't have noticed until I needed to review the footage after a theft or other.
The solar just kicked in, yo!
View attachment 1071
I'm hoping that net-negative for March means I'll be able to be slightly net negative for an entire year...
Blue is total usage, but what are the green and grey bars? Peak/Off-peak? Weekend usage?
What's your monthly bill going to look like even if you are negative usage? Are there any fixed costs: taxes, fees, insurance, regulatory-fees, services charges, state of CA "special" solar-power right-to-use fee, power-grid-connect-fees, miscellaneous BS fee, etc, etc, etc?
I can't remember if you mentioned it, or are planning more upgrades/battery backups later, but do you have some type of "disconnect me from the grid" switch so you can use the panels (and their electricity) even if the grid goes down?
Estimated payback time? 5, 10, 15, 20+ years?
/end grilling. Thanks.
Blue is me, grey is my neighborhood average, green is an "efficient" house (whatever that means).
There is a monthly fee ($30? something like that) for being connected to the grid and using it like a battery. No complaints there. They also buy back any excess power (though at a really low rate; $0.03/kwh). Ideally the buyback will cover the fees.
With the tax incentives (which I won't see until next year) payback should be 6 years. Without it would be 10.
Wow. You are a power hog! /Kidding. You are a good bit above the average. With that spike in December I'd guess you have electric central heat and not gas? Or was it some crazy Christmas light display for the house. Be honest. LMAO.
Why? That is irrational. What if you're planning on moving all electric? What if you have peak loads?Around here, our power company will not let you install more generation than your average consumption.
How did you manage to spike usage?? !!as I approached permit time I realized I hadn't been wasteful enough to get the system capacity as high as I'd like. I fixed that in Dec
This was actually very intentional. Around here, our power company will not let you install more generation than your average consumption. I'd been intentionally wasteful for the year, but as I approached permit time I realized I hadn't been wasteful enough to get the system capacity as high as I'd like. I fixed that in Dec
The reason for wanting a larger system than my current needs is that I just placed a deposit on a Tesla Model 3, and plan on getting a used Model S (as soon as there is a used market for cars with autopilot hardware).
Over the last few years we've moved everything to electric specifically so I can wipe out those bills with solar. Heat-pump for heating and cooling, heat-pump water heater, electric oven and induction cook top. The only thing left is the clothes dryer.
From what I understand, their new process involves billing me just the connection fee (just checked, $5/mo) until the 1-year anniversary of the system going live and then sending me a bill/check to "true-up" the balance. This sounds great to me, but I need to pay attention to usage and avoid a surprise.
Last month was the first full month I had the system running and the net was negative (made more than I used). If that is the case in a cold-ish March while the sun is still fairly low, I can reasonably hope that the higher power production during the summer just might build up enough credits to let me coast through the winter without going positive.
Why? That is irrational. What if you're planning on moving all electric? What if you have peak loads?
How did you manage to spike usage?? !!
Are you looking at installing a "Wall Connector" to charge the Model S? Looks like that will require a 240V 100 amp branch circuit and deliver 80A to the Model S assuming it has dual chargers on board? Or will you go with a smaller circuit to maximize what your panels can deliver/minimize draw from the utility? Maybe you can install the 100A circuit and tell the car to charge at a lower rate that you specify, but retain the fast charge option if you need it?
It's a shame that cars typically get charged at night, when the Sun is kinda missing ...
There is a monthly fee ($30? something like that) for being connected to the grid and using it like a battery...They also buy back any excess power (though at a really low rate; $0.03/kwh). Ideally the buyback will cover the fees.
I'm required to live on campus for my first year. The money is (afaik) just tuition, which means that I will NEED a job while I'm there. Still haven't talked to the Financial Aid dept., I'm hoping to do that Saturday or next Monday, which is the start of my spring break. I'm half tempted to wait a semester and swing it so I don't have to pay anything at all. I also need to get a doctors appointment, I've been putting off my first visit with my new physician for far too long.
Ah, I see, this works differently to how I expected. You're saying that your feed in during the day is credited at the same rate as your draw down at night. When is it reconciled to decide whether or not you provided an excess: daily or at the end of each month?
When feed in was first popularized here about 10 years ago, the tariff was set to about triple the draw down tariff, making it hugely profitable for early adopters. Now, feed in is only worth about $0.03/kWh, so I naturally assumed that was what you meant.
Average Joe down the street would only need half as many panels since his neighborhood average is half Dave's consumption. So the payback for someone else with normal electrical usage would probably be 12 to 15 years since there are fixed cost to installing a solar system (like mod to the house electrical wiring and man hours bill for the installation, so installing half as many panels isn't half the total cost).Six to 10 years ain't that bad. Probably helps that you are way above the average user. It looks like it would be a 20 year payback for "average Joe" down the street.
Average Joe down the street would only need half as many panels since his neighborhood average is half Dave's consumption. So the payback for someone else with normal electrical usage would probably be 12 to 15 years since there are fixed cost to installing a solar system (like mod to the house electrical wiring and man hours bill for the installation, so installing half as many panels isn't half the total cost).
KeyboaГd came on FГiday. I opened it up and tested it out today. I've got it glowing Гed with the keys tuГning white when they'Гe pГessed. It's goofy, but I like it.It is super cheesy, but I just couldn't help myself. http://www.ebay.com/itm/RAZER-Blackwidow-Chroma-RGB-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard/301912095222? I Used the $25 off $125 coupon eBay has going through 7PM PST tonight (CSPRING25OFF125) to drop it to $102.99 shipped.
So I wГote this post with the keyboaГd in question. You'll have to let me know if you can undeГstand what I wrote or not. I wasn't expecting it to inseГt the Гussian chaГacteГ eveГywheГe as I typed.The typeface is horrid. What's with the Russian Г instead of an R?
KeyboaГd came on FГiday. I opened it up and tested it out today. I've got it glowing Гed with the keys tuГning white when they'Гe pГessed. It's goofy, but I like it.
So I wГote this post with the keyboaГd in question. You'll have to let me know if you can undeГstand what I wrote or not. I wasn't expecting it to inseГt the Гussian chaГacteГ eveГywheГe as I typed.
That's the key on the keyboard man. That's just how it types.Is г stuck in caps lock mode?
Not that I really expect much of the WebEx clowns, but really... They don't support MS's new Edge browser? They detect it as Chrome... I mean I totally get that it only came out last year, and they couldn't have possibly tested with the betas, but c'mon... :skepo:
Sometimes it doesn't want to play nice with Firefox. In which case you need to try a different browser.Can't you still use IE11 or something else in Win 10 for the Webex?