ddrueding
Fixture
Thanks guys. I had done the math wrong and thought that the 1.6x factor would allow longer exposures, not shorter. Thanks for catching that.
Maybe, but it seems to be much improved from the review (and better than the 1d Mark IIn in some cases).
I've noticed in my limited testing so far that the newer firmware 1.1.3 keeps the AI Servo from "hunting" as much as it was before.
Yes, you do have to take into account the 1.6x focal length multiplier for those cameras with a small sensor, when hand holding. So as dawg notes that for a 100mm lens with a multiplier of 1.6 you should have a shutter speed of no slower than 1/160 sec because effectively your lens is a 160mm.
Since a cropped sensor is just that, a crop of the frame, I don't see why you'd need to multiply the shutter speed. If the photo is clear, a crop of it would be clear as well (at any given pixel density).
If the image the lens projected was still full-frame, and the sensor only picked up a crop of it, I could understand that reasoning. But I was under the impression that the sensor's distance from the lens was adjusted to still catch the entire projected image.
Arrrrggggghhhhhhh!
If the image the lens projected was still full-frame, and the sensor only picked up a crop of it, I could understand that reasoning.
‘Crop’ is a fairly good term – the imaging area is physically smaller. Less of the image circle projected by the lens is used, therefore it is a crop. The image remains the same size at the film plane for a given lens and subject distance – it is in no way magnified. It does, however, take up a larger proportion of the (smaller) frame and so it is easy to see why some people call it a magnifying effect. This is also why a tele lens appears so much more powerful – the field or angle of view has been reduced. This is great for nature and sports photographers as the net result is more real pull than before with no trade off of maximum F Stop loss.
I wouldn't stress about it; Lunar likes to beat up on you for some reason?
Understandable. He's good at something, and I'm a beginner. The way I learn is not always compatible with everyone. I try to make statements based on what I think I know, and welcome people to correct me. This can be interpreted as me pretending to know more than I actually do.
How so? You're a sweet guy who's never gotten into a conflict like I have. Handy's had to lock several threads as a result of my posts. :crap:I tend to bring that out in people...not sure why, but I'm kinda used to it.
Since a cropped sensor is just that, a crop of the frame, I don't see why you'd need to multiply the shutter speed. If the photo is clear, a crop of it would be clear as well (at any given pixel density).
Great explanation E_dawg. I didn't think of the (obvious) fact that you have to display each photo at the same size. Of course you're right.I think you just answered you own question but didn't know it. That's the whole point. That "cropped" image is 1.5x smaller than a FF image (16x24 vs 24x36) and must be magnified by the same amount to get to the same output size. That's why nobody shoots a billboard size print with 110 film and that's why pros use medium format for large prints (beyond other things like DOF).
Although a photo may SEEM clear, it may not be clear once magnified. All photos have some blur in them; it just a question of how much and how much magnification you're using.
Definitely not, I should have thought of P&S as a good, more extreme example of the effect.But besides all this theory stuff, have you not noticed any empirical evidence of this yourself? If your little P&S uses a focal length of 35 mm (210 mm @ 35FF equiv) when racked out to max zoom, have you actually been able to take clear pics with it around 1/30 sec?
It is still pretty lame if you ask me.
(scrambles to read up on the topic to figure out what I said) :crap:
Sorry, the outburst was not so muchtowards you in particular, there is just so much misunderstanding of basic geometry and BS perpetuated on the web.
There won't be a lot of difference between the 430EX and the 580EX in terms of output. My best advice is to put the camera in Manual mode and let the flash do it's thing. Flash operation in Manual mode is like this: You pick any aperture and shutter speed you want and the flash will fire automatically picking the appropriate amount of light to properly expose the image with the shutter and aperture you picked (assuming it has enough output). You can then adjust the flash compensation on the camera if the pictures are overexposed or underexposed. Please don't put the camera in P or you will get pictures that look like they were taken in a cave with super dark backgrounds. IMHO, Av and Tv are not your friends either because you will end up with all sorts of funky color casts because the flash isn't dominant.It will be indoors, at a house. 8ft ceilings, all off-white. Existing light sources are dim, low CRI, low temp. I'll be shooting with a 20D and maybe an XTi. Likely using a 35mm/2.0, but I might use the 18-55 for flexibility. I'll be buying a 430EX tomorrow unless someone says it won't cut it and I need a 580EX II for $500. Is there anything else I need? A lightsphere? What are good settings for posed shots? Candid (action) shots? I'll be reading on this until tomorrow afternoon when I need to buy the gear and familiarize myself with it.
Feeling a bit panicked, and a bit desperate, but their photographer bailed and they need help. So do I, it seems
You don't want the flash off to the side. Ideally you want to keep the flash over the lens (on top), even when the camera is rotated 90 degrees. I use this bracket with a Canon off camera cord. As a word of warning you will not be able to hand hold the camera at the same shutter speeds you normally can when using the bracket. If you can normally handhold say 1/30th with a 50mm lens you will need to use something more like 1/90th with the bracket. You'll need to experiment some to determine what you can hand hold with a bracket rig.To get the flash off to the side, do I need a Speedlite Transmitter (ST-E2) or will an off-camera shoe cord be enough?
NiMH rechargeable batteries might be better since they handle high current draw situations better than Alkaline batteries and will end up giving you more shots and faster flash recharge. However, you would need several sets of 4 because you may not be able to charge a set by the time the 2nd runs out. Sanyo Eneloop NiMH's would be my suggestion if you go that route since they are very low self discharge.a pack of batteries for the flash
And you didn't even tell us what you bought.I can't believe I just spent another $500 on this hobby...