ddrueding
Fixture
I know! I'll take a picture of my screen and post that! Ha!
Why does the ghost look like the Easter bunny?There is a GHOST. :alb:
On the 3rd day?It's a dead Easter bunny, risen from the grave
Kinda fitting, actually...
You should be targeting 6500K there chief.
I find that when my posts get eaten, my second draft is more to the point. It may lack information that may be of use (and if the post loss has caused that to happen, sorry), but it is always shorter.
The AQUOS was only off in the shadows (funny that)
Why does the ghost look like the Easter bunny?
Oh, apparently I did. And it isn't just out of stock, it is completely deactivated. I must have bought the last of the old product. Crap.
I find that when my posts get eaten, my second draft is more to the point. It may lack information that may be of use (and if the post loss has caused that to happen, sorry), but it is always shorter.
(bits cut & pasted from a PM because I though they might be of general interest)
The tilt-shift lens is a weird thing to use, Dave. Don't know if it would suit you. I bought it for landscapes. Essentially, I was sort of groping towards a way of capturing the vast, flat Australian landscape, and I thought that the TSE would give me that masive depth of field I thought might do it.
Well it does, more or less, but I can get even more DOF by simply using a shorter focal length, and very often that's what I want anyway (for other reasons).
Besides, the TSE is horribly difficult to use. It's not the manual focus (though it is always hard getting accurate focus on a modern DSLR with crop factor and no focus aids in the VF), it's the manual focus plus the fiddling with the tilt, followed by refocussing, followed by adjusting the tilt again, and all of this accompanied by lots of fiddling with my stupid 3-way trpod head, around and around and around. It isn't at all difficult to spend 10 or 15 minutes doing what you want to do with the TSE to get a single shot. I already spend that amount of time and often much longer getting (and as frequently not getting!) a bird shot, I really need to be able to take my landscape shots faster than that - birds are my priority, of course.
May I invite you to take a visit to my latest set on Flickr. Would appreciate comments.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/paugie/sets/72157617505368293/
Exposures are all over the place. How are you metering? Do you check the histograms in RGB mode?
You also might want to clean the sensor.
I know for sure that ddrueding would have HDR'd the first shot. They look good except for the 3rd one which looks underexposed.
That's why you shoot RAW and then make the 3 exposures from the one RAW file.I would, except there is no way to hold all those people still for three shots.
That's why you shoot RAW and then make the 3 exposures from the one RAW file.
Try it and see.I should give that a shot, but is there really enough info in a RAW to make 3 16-bit TIFFs?
That's what I've done before.Would simply moving the "exposure" slider in the RAW conversion be the best way to do this?
Try it and see.
That's what I've done before.
And the answer is...yes, and then some. -4, -2, 0, +2, +4 all included additional information. Holy Crap.
The striping in some (most ) of my panos is the result of some pretty bad vignetting on my 10-22 and my 35/2. What is the best lens in this range (at a sane price) to avoid this specific issue? I don't think my 50/1.8 is as bad, does it happen more with WA lenses?
And the answer is...yes, and then some. -4, -2, 0, +2, +4 all included additional information. Holy Crap.
I've never messed with it to that extreme. Usually I just do +/-1, but I'm also not usually trying for heavy HDR.
Ddrueding likes his RAW files the same way he likes his cars... Well abused.No kidding! That's a huge range to pillage from a single RAW. Let us know how it works out.
You may need to overlap more, ideally 50% on most lenses matched to the format. It is assumed that mid-small apertures are used. How much do you usually overlap?
Ddrueding likes his RAW files the same way he likes his cars... Well abused.
No kidding! That's a huge range to pillage from a single RAW. Let us know how it works out.
Now that's not too hard (I think). I've used a manual HDR process using layer masks based on the image itself for all my HDR efforts.Um, yeah...not well. There is additional detail to be had, but you would need to mask out the rest; the response curve goes goofy and neither CS4 or Photomatix can handle it.
It really depends on how much time I have. If the clouds are blowing quickly or it is getting dark fast, 10-20% overlap is it. If I have the time and I have the tripod and Nodal Ninja with me, 50-70% overlap easy.
You may need to overlap more, ideally 50% on most lenses matched to the format. It is assumed that mid-small apertures are used. How much do you usually overlap?
The striping in some (most ) of my panos is the result of some pretty bad vignetting on my 10-22 and my 35/2. What is the best lens in this range (at a sane price) to avoid this specific issue? I don't think my 50/1.8 is as bad, does it happen more with WA lenses?
You should be targeting 6500K there chief.
This is the monitor you should get in the 24" range, or the similar one without SV if you don't want it.