ddrueding
Fixture
Thank you uda, Lunar, and e_dawg...all good stuff that I will need to review when I'm not late for work.
Be sure to re-load your calibrated profile about 2-3 min after you boot up. Some display drivers usually over-ride the calibrated profile with their profile loader settings as part of the boot-up sequence. Also be sure to remove Adobe Gamma or any other utilitiy that will adjust your display output, as you don't want it to over-ride your custom profile. If you ran your calibration with Adobe Gamma or your display driver profile active the previous time, you will have to re-calibrate again after you have removed all that crap first.
What I do is have a shortcut to the i1 Display's profile loader on my desktop and double-click it a couple minutes after boot-up, after my nVidia display drivers and utilities have loaded, etc. The path to the executable is usually located here:
\Program Files\GretagMacbeth\i1\Eye-One Match 3\CalibrationLoader
That never worked for my systems for some reason. It is annoying because the video reverts when resuming from standby.
The base software install already put the "Logo Calibration Loader" into my startup menu. I just run that if I think it is wrong. It hasn't failed to load properly yet, though.
The base software install already put the "Logo Calibration Loader" into my startup menu. I just run that if I think it is wrong. It hasn't failed to load properly yet, though.
Exposures are inconsistent.Thank you for the comments.
Yes, I would like to understand what "exposures all over the place" means.
No, I do not know know how to check histograms. I'll google that.
If I have the time and I have the tripod and Nodal Ninja with me, 50-70% overlap easy.
The mount at the end of the two arms has a tripod bolt built in. I've only attached it to the camera body, and shot with nothing larger than the 75-300III @ 300mm. It is more than long enough to find the nodal point of that combo. If you were after something larger with a lens plate, I still don't see it having much issue; it is quite strong. Using the XSi with the 35/2, it can manage 360-degrees vertical and horizontal, allowing a complete sphere.I can't figure out how that contraption attaches to the L plate or lens plate. Is it not A-S compatible?
dd,
N.B.: Keep in mind that I have a crappy Manfrotto 190XPROB + 484RC2 tripod/head setup, as I generally don't use tripods nor do I like using them even though I know the theory and benefits behind using them. With that, I would suggest following LM's opinions and experience and not mine
I'm rather surprised. I take it you don't do much work with longer lenses? At 200mm and up the differences become more obvious.
I would like to visit Chicago, just to photograph the chrome turd.
Photo Clam PC-48NS
http://reallybigcameras.com/PhotoClam/Photo Clam Table.htm
The PC-54 model looks like an almost exact knockoff of an old Arca B1, but made in China or Korea. I guess the patents have expired by now. The main concern would be parts/service. I'd feel safer with a new Z1 or the BH-1 in that size category. For how many years has the PhotoClam been in service?
That is my point. If you buy a tool that is not really good enough, you will end up buying the real thing later on. I don't know about that one yet.
Do your really want an EX?
But that assumes one is in it for the long haul. At this point, for all we know, this is just a spring fling. I don't think it's a good idea to splurge for the best setup right off the bat when one is new and inexperienced. I believe you need a proof of concept first using a cheaper setup to know that this is what one wants to do over the long term and works at the technique and experience such that the equipment starts to become the limiting factor.
I'm glad I didn't spend a fortune on a good tripod/head setup. I'd never use the thing now even if it was top of the line. It would be money wasted. I'm glad I discovered that I hate lugging tripods around and don't have much need for them after only having sunk money into a cheapo Manfrotto setup.