dSLR thread

e_dawg

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Be sure to re-load your calibrated profile about 2-3 min after you boot up. Some display drivers usually over-ride the calibrated profile with their profile loader settings as part of the boot-up sequence. Also be sure to remove Adobe Gamma or any other utilitiy that will adjust your display output, as you don't want it to over-ride your custom profile. If you ran your calibration with Adobe Gamma or your display driver profile active the previous time, you will have to re-calibrate again after you have removed all that crap first.

What I do is have a shortcut to the i1 Display's profile loader on my desktop and double-click it a couple minutes after boot-up, after my nVidia display drivers and utilities have loaded, etc. The path to the executable is usually located here:

\Program Files\GretagMacbeth\i1\Eye-One Match 3\CalibrationLoader
 

LunarMist

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That never worked for my systems for some reason. It is annoying because the video reverts when resuming from standby.
 

ddrueding

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The base software install already put the "Logo Calibration Loader" into my startup menu. I just run that if I think it is wrong. It hasn't failed to load properly yet, though.
 

udaman

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Be sure to re-load your calibrated profile about 2-3 min after you boot up. Some display drivers usually over-ride the calibrated profile with their profile loader settings as part of the boot-up sequence. Also be sure to remove Adobe Gamma or any other utilitiy that will adjust your display output, as you don't want it to over-ride your custom profile. If you ran your calibration with Adobe Gamma or your display driver profile active the previous time, you will have to re-calibrate again after you have removed all that crap first.

What I do is have a shortcut to the i1 Display's profile loader on my desktop and double-click it a couple minutes after boot-up, after my nVidia display drivers and utilities have loaded, etc. The path to the executable is usually located here:

\Program Files\GretagMacbeth\i1\Eye-One Match 3\CalibrationLoader

That never worked for my systems for some reason. It is annoying because the video reverts when resuming from standby.

The base software install already put the "Logo Calibration Loader" into my startup menu. I just run that if I think it is wrong. It hasn't failed to load properly yet, though.

Geez, nice to have a Mac :D, iPhoto now imports GPS data dd :p (ok, so there's current no decent pano software for the Mac, details, details)

Wow, this new server is ...ah, *too* fast for me :p

(I'm going turn into a Turbo poster :D)
 

LunarMist

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The base software install already put the "Logo Calibration Loader" into my startup menu. I just run that if I think it is wrong. It hasn't failed to load properly yet, though.

I don't have any issues on startup, only when resuming from standby.
 

ddrueding

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I can't figure out how that contraption attaches to the L plate or lens plate. Is it not A-S compatible?
The mount at the end of the two arms has a tripod bolt built in. I've only attached it to the camera body, and shot with nothing larger than the 75-300III @ 300mm. It is more than long enough to find the nodal point of that combo. If you were after something larger with a lens plate, I still don't see it having much issue; it is quite strong. Using the XSi with the 35/2, it can manage 360-degrees vertical and horizontal, allowing a complete sphere.
 

LunarMist

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In the close view of the NN5 it looks like the generic plate is not attached with a clamp, much less an A-S clamp. Rather, it looks like the plate is screwed on. Perhaps a proper clamp could be installed, but probably not directly to the screw from the positioning knob. Even if it could be modified, that type of pano setup is not very versatile. I prefer to attach a pano rig to a ball head as needed and then quickly remove it completely when not shooting a pan.

You would want a leveling base or leveling head regardless. For example in this photo a Manfrotto tripod is shown. It would be a PITA to level a loaded rig with the three legs. ;)
 

ddrueding

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Yup, mine is attached to a ball head on a Manfrotto tripod. I typically release the entire NN and hand-shoot with it hanging off. Not exactly ergonomic...

I'm looking into one of these to speed my shots.
 

LunarMist

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So you leave it attached then? I'm having difficulty visualizing your setup. If you are not using an A-S system all around, I highly suggest doing so. :) A proper support system makes all the difference in speed, stability, and versatility. Unfortunately I did not get to that point until the mid 90s.
 

LunarMist

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I can't help but add that if you learned the basics of photography first instead of going ape with PP, you would already have a good support system. *sigh*
 

ddrueding

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All these things cost money, I hesitate putting money into something until I have at least some idea of what I should get. Photoshop/PTGui/Photomatix were easy decisions, as I know a bit about software. Support systems, I have no idea. I started with a $20 tripod from Fry's, and now have a mid-range aluminum Manfrotto. I certainly can now appreciate the concepts of interchangeable, stable mounting/clamping stuff. That would be a good direction for my budget to go.
 

LunarMist

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The right support system is important, and should be good for a 7-10 year cycle or more. For example, just one of my ball heads has been used with over a dozen cameras and 20-30 lenses. Shoot me an e-mail if you have really specific questions.
 

ddrueding

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Some general questions, if you don't mind.

1. Is it unreasonable to plan everything as part of a single compatible system?
2. With an eye towards cost/value, who should I be looking at?
3. What are the components I should be looking for as a base set?
 

mubs

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Lunar, E_dawg, Tannin: Please post here instead of PMs so more than one of us can benefit from your wisdom and expertise. I will eventually be needing to acquire a solid tripod and associated heads and plates, and this will be extremely valuable info for me a well. Thanks!
 

e_dawg

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dd,

Not sure what you meant by Q1 exactly.

At a minimum, you'd probably want CF tripod legs and a good ball head. Generally, Manfrotto/Bogen is not considered pro quality.

Feisol makes some CF tripods that are said to be light, sturdy, and more economically priced than the big names, e.g., Gitzo. Never tried one, but I am looking at them as a prospective option myself.

Most good ball heads are in the same price range. As in LM's post above, RRS, Kirk, AS are the trusted names. Acratech is newer but makes light and maintenance-free ball heads that can be used in dirty conditions. Markins makes some of the best lightweight ball heads. RRS is probably the best option if you want a comprehensive base / clamping / mounting / bracket system from one vendor.

Photo Clam is a newer entrant that, like Feisol, is said to be a good ball head alternative that's better priced than the big names. Again, never tried one myself but heard good things about it. Interestingly, Kerry Thalman at ReallBigCameras.com carries both Feisol and Photo Clam as somewhat of a one-stop shop when it comes to good value support systems.

N.B.: Keep in mind that I have a crappy Manfrotto 190XPROB + 484RC2 tripod/head setup, as I generally don't use tripods nor do I like using them even though I know the theory and benefits behind using them. With that, I would suggest following LM's opinions and experience and not mine ;)
 

e_dawg

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BTW, you're looking at around $750 minimum for a decent setup. $300+ for legs, $300+ for a ball head, and whatever plates, brackets, bases, etc. on top of that.
 

LunarMist

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1. Buy at least the primary equipment at the same time so that returns are possible if it does not work out. Generally you will not buy everything from a single vendor if that is what you meant. All modern A-S gear is compatible with the right components, though some combinations are more practical than others.

2. It depends on your current and future equipment and how you shoot, travel, and carry gear. More info is needed as there are no simple answers. At the most basic, are you trying for a compromise do-it-all system or will it be part of two or more systems for different purposes? Buying good, but not really good enough, gear will cost you time and money in the long run. Given your capricious interests that could be 3 years from now or 3 days from now. :) If I had to throw a dart, I'd tell you to get GT2541 legs, M10 head, and Kirk plates/brackets all around, but who knows. I won't tell you to do what I do, have three setups with some mixing/matching of legs and heads, and a myriad of plates/brackets, etc. I have enough gear for 2 well-equipped photogs, and use what is most appropriate for the purpose.

(I could do the 45 minute Support lecture and then Q&A, but it has been quite a few years. In think Tony lectures on photography as well. I don't enjoy writing, or I'd do that instead.)

3. A-S plates/brackets for each camera body and lens, tripod legs, ball head, monopod & head, etc.
 

LunarMist

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dd,
N.B.: Keep in mind that I have a crappy Manfrotto 190XPROB + 484RC2 tripod/head setup, as I generally don't use tripods nor do I like using them even though I know the theory and benefits behind using them. With that, I would suggest following LM's opinions and experience and not mine ;)

I'm rather surprised. I take it you don't do much work with longer lenses? At 200mm and up the differences become more obvious.
 

e_dawg

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I'm rather surprised. I take it you don't do much work with longer lenses? At 200mm and up the differences become more obvious.

I agree, but I am primarily a wide-angle travel / street / urban architecture shooter. I do use longer lenses, but only when shooting weddings and sports -- just for fun, none of it professionally. No long-lens wildlife or landscape photography. Ever. Seriously.

To give you an idea of how much I use wide-angle, according to my current LR catalog, I have 5,200 pics or 32% from my Olympus 11-22/2.8-3.5 alone! With the 2x FLM of the 4/3 sensor, that works out to a 22-44 mm zoom. I basically use it as 2 classic RF primes: a 21 mm wide-angle and a 40 mm normal lens, usually in a 2:1 ratio.

On a recent trip to Chicago, I even used a 9-18 mm lens (18-36 EFL) exclusively except for about 20 min on a boat tour, where I used the 40-150:

http://scpublicgallery.smugmug.com/gallery/8123042_tRDJg/1/529701819_BbZzT
 

e_dawg

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Well, it is a magic turd that proved you actually can polish a turd! Polished to a glistening sheen, the little turd that could is now called Cloud Gate, or by its technical name, The Bean -- the most famous tourist landmark in Chicago! ;)
 

LunarMist

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e_dawg

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The PC-54 model looks like an almost exact knockoff of an old Arca B1, but made in China or Korea. I guess the patents have expired by now. The main concern would be parts/service. I'd feel safer with a new Z1 or the BH-1 in that size category. For how many years has the PhotoClam been in service?

No idea, LM. The Photo Clam suggestion was not as a bullet-proof ball-head of such reliability that you briefly wonder about putting it in your will to pass it down to the next generation.

The recommendation is more like a "since you're new to this and neither of us know whether this is another impulse buy or the start of a life-long pursuit, check out this ball head that's significantly cheaper than the big name heads... heard it's really good for the money and more than one person said it doesn't suck!"

You might not get the long-term serviceability of a more trusted brand, but we're just checking for chemistry at this point... think of it as a first date type of ball head. You're not looking for lasting marriage material here... just someone to have fun with now ;)
 

LunarMist

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That is my point. If you buy a tool that is not really good enough, you will end up buying the real thing later on. I don't know about that one yet.
 

e_dawg

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That is my point. If you buy a tool that is not really good enough, you will end up buying the real thing later on. I don't know about that one yet.

But that assumes one is in it for the long haul. At this point, for all we know, this is just a spring fling. I don't think it's a good idea to splurge for the best setup right off the bat when one is new and inexperienced. I believe you need a proof of concept first using a cheaper setup to know that this is what one wants to do over the long term and works at the technique and experience such that the equipment starts to become the limiting factor.

I'm glad I didn't spend a fortune on a good tripod/head setup. I'd never use the thing now even if it was top of the line. It would be money wasted. I'm glad I discovered that I hate lugging tripods around and don't have much need for them after only having sunk money into a cheapo Manfrotto setup.
 

ddrueding

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But that assumes one is in it for the long haul. At this point, for all we know, this is just a spring fling. I don't think it's a good idea to splurge for the best setup right off the bat when one is new and inexperienced. I believe you need a proof of concept first using a cheaper setup to know that this is what one wants to do over the long term and works at the technique and experience such that the equipment starts to become the limiting factor.

I'm glad I didn't spend a fortune on a good tripod/head setup. I'd never use the thing now even if it was top of the line. It would be money wasted. I'm glad I discovered that I hate lugging tripods around and don't have much need for them after only having sunk money into a cheapo Manfrotto setup.

For me, this will already be my third tripod. I know I like them and use them a lot. I know the shots I take will benefit from a better one. The only things that bother me about my current one is that it isn't particularly stable, sometimes isn't tall enough, and takes too long to extend and repack. Speeding deployment would make a big difference.
 

LunarMist

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An EX has a different center column design for shooting at angles and such.
 
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