dSLR thread

e_dawg

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Good luck, Dave. ... Although, I suspect that since they didn't feel it was important enough to budget for and spend time looking for a pro wedding photographer, wedding pictures are not a high priority for them.

I wouldn't worry too much about it; you can only do what you can, given the situation. If they end up holding it against you for not coming through with all the shots, they are simply being unreasonable...

Having said that, I'm sure you'll be able to get a bunch of keepers that they will be happy with. As long as you can deliver about 30-50 of them, that should suffice. If you take 1000 pics or so, you should be able to hit your quota, given a reasonable keeper rate of about 5%.
 

udaman

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I'm in Tahoe, shooting a wedding today. I was invited as a guest, and they asked when I got here "you did bring your camera, right?". I thought, sure, no problem, they wand some candids after the pro leaves. Nope. No pro, just me. Happy to do it, just hoping I don't screw it up too badly.

I know the pictures I'm supposed to take, and I'll be able to figure out where to take them when I get to the site, and I even brought my 430EX for fill, but I'm not sure how I'll do under pressure ;)

If they did not specifically tell you beforehand...my response would have been "no" (so I lie, sue me :p). They were so disingenuous that they did not tell you to bring a camera, fully expecting *you* to be the one taking pictures?

Let some other yahoo with a PnS be the suka fool, give them what they *deserve*!
 

ddrueding

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Nah, I think I did alright. I shot about 16GB of pictures (~1200 RAW), and learned that I need more fill with that kind of background (outdoor, in the shade, with the sunny lake and snow-covered hills in the background). Just a 430EX isn't enough, and it doesn't recharge fast enough, either. 95% of the pics were shot with the 35/2 at f2.5 or f11 (background or no). The other shots were "fun", split between the 10-22 @ 10mm or the 75-300 at about 135 (I want the 135/2!).

I know I got a bunch of "keepers", and I kept the family shots limited (every variation of immediate family, and one of everyone that was there). Then the bride, groom and I took a walk. And shot another 4GB card worth. By then my flash was shot, so we headed in.
 

LunarMist

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The McPhoto app was just a tool I suggested would be useful to Dave to help him go from phase 2 to phase 3 more quickly. That is all. Use it as a learning tool for a specific phase, not to solve the world's photography problems.

It is not working in a reproducible manner. I can't figure out what the robot is looking for, but it is certainly not the conventional idea of better images. Human feedback is far more useful.
 

ddrueding

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What programs do you use to look for "keepers"?

I'm looking for something that will display the first image in a folder full-screen. When I press "1" it moves the file to a folder, pressing "2" moves the file to a different folder. Either way, once the file has been moved, the next image is displayed full-screen.

How are people quickly going through pictures? Canon's DPP can mark images as 1, 2, or 3, but then the move has to be a separate process.
 

ddrueding

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What programs do you use to look for "keepers"?

I'm looking for something that will display the first image in a folder full-screen. When I press "1" it moves the file to a folder, pressing "2" moves the file to a different folder. Either way, once the file has been moved, the next image is displayed full-screen.

How are people quickly going through pictures? Canon's DPP can mark images as 1, 2, or 3, but then the move has to be a separate process.

I'm presently working with IrfanView's "move" feature, but that requires two key presses and manual slide advance. Anything better out there?

BTW: Managed a 4.3% hit rate at the wedding, with quite a few failing because the flash had not recharged in time...not bad.
 

paugie

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Dave, in that situation, I'd either be flustered and be totally useless or be so happy to be useful that I'd do a good job.
Either way, I'd still end up taking pictures of the event and piss off most of the guests by ordering them around and shouting a lot.

BTW, glad you are pleased with the results and that you enjoyed yourself.
 

ddrueding

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I did enjoy shooting the wedding, but I would have enjoyed it more without the pressure. Of course, the pressure gave me the cojones to do things I wouldn't ordinarily (walk in front of people to take shots, order people about, etc). The fact that this was my boss' daughter getting married, and he was there, talking about what a great photographer I was (and what high expectations he had) didn't help.
 

LunarMist

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WTF kind of company is that? They expect an employee to take wedding photos, as a novice, without preparation or proper equipment! :eek: I don't know about that place. :pale:
 

ddrueding

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WTF kind of company is that? They expect an employee to take wedding photos, as a novice, without preparation or proper equipment! :eek: I don't know about that place. :pale:

He had nothing to do with setting it up. His daughter is a close friend of mine, and simply didn't understand what was involved. Dad knew what was involved, but assumed that the daughter had already talked to me. Minor misunderstanding, and (as is my reputation), I made it right. I don't have a college degree, people pay me what they do because I have a reputation for fixing whatever is broken. I do enjoy it.
 

e_dawg

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What programs do you use to look for "keepers"?

I'm looking for something that will display the first image in a folder full-screen. When I press "1" it moves the file to a folder, pressing "2" moves the file to a different folder. Either way, once the file has been moved, the next image is displayed full-screen.

How are people quickly going through pictures? Canon's DPP can mark images as 1, 2, or 3, but then the move has to be a separate process.

I use Adobe Lightroom 2 and so do many wedding photogs. You rate files numerically pressing 0-5 on the keyboard. You can rate pics individually, look at and select say 9 of them on the screen at the same time to rate, or you can play them in a slideshow, rating them as you go along by pressing the appropiate number key when each image pops up. Once you have rated all your files, you can easily filter for the ratings you want (e.g., Custom Filer > show 3 stars and up) and then create a new collection from the results called "may/09 wedding keepers" or "may/09 wedding 3+ stars".
 

Tannin

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A very interesting point of view, E_Dawg, and well expressed as ever. But no, I don't actually agree with it in this context.

one popular model includes 4 phases of learning:

1. Unconscious Incompetence (you don't know what you don't know)

2. Conscious Incompetence (you know that there's a lot of stuff you don't know... yet)

3. Conscious Competence (you know what you are supposed to do, what rules to follow, etc. but you have to think about all the steps, rules, and how to do things before or while you're doing them)

4. Unconscious Competence (you have attained a level of mastery that you don't need to think about the various steps, rules, and options on how to do things... you just do it effortlessly, and are freed up to focus on the creative aspects not having to think about the mechanics and the process)

(but you are) overlooking the time spent paying ones' dues in phase 3. One does need to go through the checklists, rules, follow the process, practice the mechanics, etc. before one can just focus on creating and communicating.

Nice model! Let's call it, for the sake of convence, the E Model. But let me put an alternative model to you, which I'll call the T Model.

The T Model is less structured. It has three stages.

1: Do what you do. Look at your results. Think about them. Work out what you like and what you don't like, and (very important!) why you like it or don't like it. Then do it again, only this time you are conscious of what worked for you last time and what didn't, and you try to do more of the stuff you liked, and less of the stuff you didn't liked. (As Tea would put it.)

2: See (1).

3: After doing (2) many, many times over, you may eventually feel two things (i) that you have started to reach the limits of what you can do, that your progress has slowed and you are at risk of stagnating; and (ii) that you have been doing what you do for a long enough period to be pretty firmly fixed in your ideas - I don't mean by this that your thinking has become ossified (though it may have done), but rather that you have strongly developed traits and preferences, and that these are so much a part of you now when you do what you do that there is no question of them ever being at risk. This is an appropriate time to look at what other people do, to learn the rules they operate by, and adopt those parts of those things that fit in with and strengthen the rules that you have developed for yourself. (And, of course, to consider and reject the ones that do not meet with your internal rules.)

Which of these models is superior? Neither one, of course: they are good for different tasks and different purposes. You can use either model to achieve any goal in any field, but in general, I suggest to you that:

The E Model is good for:
  • Semiconductor research
  • Engineering
  • Psychological counselling
  • Accounting
  • Warfare
  • Computer programming
  • Technical journalism
  • (lots of others)

The T Model is good for:
  • Painting
  • Writing poetry
  • Musical composition
  • Musical performance
  • Sculpture
  • Photography

Are we starting to see a pattern here? Yes, you can use either method to achieve any goal, but the T Method really isn't very effective if you want to design semi-conductors or fight a war. You wind up repeating a vast number of old mistakes, and when you eventually arrive at Stage 3, you have a lot of un-learning to do. Similarly, the E Method tends to produce stilted, conservative artists who are technically competent and as alike as peas in a pod. The T Model is good for art; the E Model is good for wallpaper.

Note that my categories above are highly fungible! For example, while it is perfectly normal to use the T Method to learn to play rock or folk music, it is normal to learn classical music using the E Method - and in fact, you generally get better results in each of these genres by following the appropriate learning method. There are very few (if any) self-taught concert violinists; there are very few (if any) rock musicians of outstanding and lasting influence who were not self-taught.

Great art is more likely to blossom where the artist is very much his own man with his own ideas. If it happens to be technically well-executed, so much the better.

Finally, I should draw a very clear distinction here between technical rules and artistic rules. In deciding what exposure settings to use and how far to twist the focus ring, I am making technical decisions; in deciding how to frame the subject, how much depth of field I want, and which exact moment is best to press the shutter, I am making artistic decisions - still more when I decide what subject to shoot.

I am all in favour of learning technical rules as soon as possible. In general these are objective, and apply equally to any photographer. I am very much against learning artistic "rules" at any time early in the learning cycle, indeed, I am yet to be convinced that these "rules" of composition are rules at all, and not merely codifications of groupthink and fashion. Is it good to know them? Well, it does no harm - if you have already spent long enough doing what you do, and thinking about what you do, to have immediate clear feelings about them.
 

Tannin

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Dave, Dave, Dave, I've posted about the peerless PMView many times here. PMView does exactly what you are asking for above, and the best thing about it is that the keyboard is entirely soft - i.e., you can use any keystrokes to move things that you like to use; it takes a couple of mouse clicks to set them up to your own desire. So I'll tell you the keystrokes I set it for, but you can change them if you want to.

NEXT IMAGE: space or PgeDown
PREVIOUS IMAGE: alt-space or PgeUp
COPY IMAGE double quote + enter
MOVE IMAGE single quote + enter

I like having the MOVE on the single quote key because (a) I have to shift to get at it which saves accidents, (b) because it's not needed for anything else in this context, and most importantly (c) because it's fast - I can flick through a whole folder of images using PgeUp/PgeDown and/or the space bar, archiving off the second-rate ones on the fly with the quote key and the enter key, all without looking at the keyboard or moving my hand from the control section.*

* "Control section" - my term for the part of the keyboard I use all the time to tell the computer to do stuff. It contains the arrow key, home, end, pgeup, pgedown, insert, delete, enter, backspace, and the varous shift keys. It's where you do all your text editing as well (with text selection, copy, paste, cut, all the essential stuff. When idiots like Microsoft go messing with the control section and leaving keys out or putting them in the wrong places, I get really pissed off.)

As I said, you can set PMView to use pretty much any key combination. I just happen to like it this way.

There is only one active MOVE TO destination at any one time. The MOVE TO dialogue box actually pops up when you press (in my case) the single quote key. If you want to, instead of pressing enter, you can type a new destination; arrow down to any of 50-odd destinations in the history; or browse to a new one if you can't be bothered typing it. Or you can edit the current active destination to turn (say) MyFolder/MyStuff/Wednesday/CrappyOnes into MyFolder/MyStuff/Wednesday/MediochreOnes.

PMView doesn't see raw files, only the standard image types (JPG, TIFF, and a zillion other similar things). This, believe it or not, is a benefit. If you shoot raw+JPG (as I do) you just sort the JPGs and the raws will look after themselves (with a little help from Tea - more on this later). Or if you only shoot raw, then simply do a batch conversion of the whole lot with sensible middle-of-the-road settings, then sort the JPGs - you may or may not be hapy with the default conversion settings, but you can sertainly see enough of what you need to see to decide if an image is a dud or is worth looking at more closely and maybe doing a ful PP on.

Now, what about the raw files? Tea once spent an entire weekend figuring out how to make a glorified batch file examine a folder tree of sorted JPG images, and move the corresponding raw images into a matching set of folders. It would be a simple matter to adapt it to any sensible file struture of your choice. If you are nice to her, she will probably send it to you.

Oh, and did I say that PMView is the fastest image viewer I have ever seen? I've seen plenty, and there are quiite a few good ones, but PMView is the goodest.
 

Tannin

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PS: Lightroom is only good if you have a fairly small number of images, and don't use any non-Adobe products to manage them. If you like to do your own file management, Lightroom is hopeless. Either you resign yourself to the One True Adobe Way Of Doing Everything, or else you consign Lightroom to its proper role as a rather nice raw converter with a lot of useless crap added into the other tabs, and the worst file-handling I have ever seen in any program.
 

e_dawg

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FWIW, I love the way Lightroom works (and frankly, so do most people who give it a chance). The database-driven photo management engine is simply fantastic with the ability to rank, flag, filter/query, create collections, sets, virtual copies, snapshots/milestones for versioning and stacking, non-destructive editing with edit metadata that can be propagated, auto RAW+JPEG stacking, powerful tagging/keywording utilities, auto/batch processing preset and keywording application during ingestion, auto preview creation during ingestion, etc. Way better than managing files yourself by moving them around to different folders on your HD. So powerful and flexible, yet so intuitive at the same time.... And that's just the photo management engine. Wait til you see the presentation/web engine and the built in sharpening module that automatically applies the perfect amount of output sharpening for the target output medium and size.

Here is a blog posting from a local pro and fellow Canuck on LR:

http://artoftheimage.blogspot.com/2009/05/lightroom-versus-nikon-capture-nikon.html
 

Tannin

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Where is FILE/OPEN?

For Mike's sake, Lightroom's inability to open a damn file when you want it to is simply inexcusablly bad design, even by Adobe's standards, which are never too high.

It purports to be a raw converter. I want it to convert a known file in a known location, with a known filename, and I want it to output the result to the place I tell it to. Me human. Me boss. That's what computers are for - doing what I. the human being, tell them to do. And what do I get? I get ZERO ability to even open a damn file unless I buggerise around with libraries and slow, time-consuming, resoiurce-hungry, difficult and arcane import/export nonsense.

Lightroom is like a door without a handle. Brain-dead.

Sorry, any program that doesn't do what a human being tells it to do, doesn't even attempt to provide a mechanism for doing what I, the human being, want, is j u n k junk.

This is a shame, as I really like the Lightroom raw converter interface. They have worked hard on that, and done good work. But the price of that interface is giving up the right to manage my own data in my own way. I am not willing to pay that price.

Who's data is it again?

Adobe simply cannot imagine that anyone would ever want to use any product for any purpose other than their product. In their colossal arrogance, they attempt to make it impossible for me to use their product to manipulate the images I chose to use it to manipulate. All or nothine. The One True Adobe Way or the highway.

Well screw you, Adobe. I'm in charge of my computer. I'm a human being, it is my right to be in charge of my own computer. And your One True Way sucks.

Pity, it could have been such a nice raw converter.
 

Handruin

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Where is FILE/OPEN?

This same thing made the product frustrating to use for me as well. I didn't want to have to import into a library to work with a handful of images. I agree with a lot of what you said and I've tried on two occasions to use lightroom without success (to my satisfaction). Being a control freak, I cringed at how it managed the files and I don't like the work flow.
 

Stereodude

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Adobe simply cannot imagine that anyone would ever want to use any product for any purpose other than their product. In their colossal arrogance, they attempt to make it impossible for me to use their product to manipulate the images I chose to use it to manipulate. All or nothine. The One True Adobe Way or the highway.

Well screw you, Adobe. I'm in charge of my computer. I'm a human being, it is my right to be in charge of my own computer. And your One True Way sucks.

Pity, it could have been such a nice raw converter.
Are you sure you're not also talking about Apple? ;)
 

ddrueding

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I'll second Tannin and Handruin on Lightroom. Had it on my machine for about two weeks. I'm finding IrfanView/Adobe Bridge/CS4/PTGui/Photomatix to be my workflow now.
 

udaman

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I sure hope LM exerts the same critical eye on those images as he did with paugie's. All of them are more over-exposed than any in paugie's series.

Hope I don't get banned :p. Did dd use full auto, avg. weighted metering on these? Spot metering *could* have resulted in more accurate readings, but it's a HDR scene. Particularly, the one with her standing and looking away > left? That one almost, *dare* I say it, looks like it could have been a 2 image layered PS'd?

Not trying to diss dd, as you know, I would have categorically refused to be 'gun shot' peer pressured, without prior notice, into taking the pictures. Sure, with 2x - 1k X more experience and skillz than dd, I could have done better (and I'm sure e_dawg, Handy, tannin, & LM would have skunked me all the more), but here you have a perfect example for the utility of the Fuji or Nikon D3x max DNR dSLR's.

In the hands of a less experienced photog w/unlimited finances, either of these $$ cams, could have made dd (or me :p) a friggin 'rok *' <<< 'twitteriffic™' acronym :D

btw, that 'classic' butterfly tat on the shoulder blade > women that want/desire doggy style???

And corollary, the stainless steel, ball stud, pierced tongue ring >>> yowza, likes to suck UR world, till your eye's pop??? Ms. Constantly Causing me Consternation, (aka Ms CCC, Ms Aqua GUI)- extraordinarily hot Korean-American, early 20'something; had a lovely pierced ball stud-ring on her tongue... drool...more drool :p
 

Tea

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Uda, I really only ever want high DR for a narrow range of specific tasks - pretty much landscapes and landscapes, with sometimes the occassional landscape thown in. I could relate pretty strongly to a camera optimised for that, something that can capture what I see without all that tedious (and frequently unsatisfactory looking) HDR multiple exposure stuff.

Not planning to buy any new gear anytime soon, but, well, you know what they say: if wishes were fishes, we'd all eat pork. Or something like that.
 

ddrueding

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None of those were double-exposures. I shot four sets of pictures, one without flash exposed for the average between the background and the subject, one without flash exposed for the subject, one with flash diffused for the immediate background, and (the one she picked) one with flash pointed right at them. I hate flash, but without it they all look like this.
 

Stereodude

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It sounds like someone just need to learn how to use their camera. :p

M is the most powerful mode on the camera when you're using the flash. Learn it, Love it, Live it!
 

ddrueding

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I am comfortable using M when I can prepare for the shot, and have a chance to shoot it over after taking a peek. I didn't have that, nor have I tried to shoot under these less-than-optimal conditions before.

Anyone like this one better?
 

Stereodude

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I am comfortable using M when I can prepare for the shot, and have a chance to shoot it over after taking a peek. I didn't have that, nor have I tried to shoot under these less-than-optimal conditions before.
The flash is still automatic in M. ;-) Fill flash would have been your friend. Or perhaps even making the shots flash slightly dominant to pull them from the background. I realize you got ambushed at the wedding to shoot it, but a friend holding a 5 in 1 reflector would have been clutch for most your shots.

Anyone like this one better?
Frankly speaking, No... It looks like you exposed for the background, not the subject and there's too much DOF.
 

Handruin

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I agree, the last image you linked to doesn't look improved. It looks very flat or washed out to me (or maybe missing contrast). I agree that a reflector would have helped a bunch as SD suggested.
 

e_dawg

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If I may make a suggestion, dd... for these types of shots, i might try to get more light on the subject from the side using (preferably) sunlight, and if not, wireless flash, or as SD said, a reflector. In a pinch, you could also use a ring flash (something like the Orbis) if off-camera flash is not practical.

I know you like that style of image for landscapes, but it is not as appealing for people photography. You need more directional lighting and tonal contrast to avoid people looking flat and washed-out. With harder lighting, you will emphasize the texture of things like skin, so you will also have to get used to airbrushing out skin blemishes and imperfections (or just use a plug-in for that like Imagenomic's Portraiture or Kodak's GEM Airbrush).

IMO, it's all about the lighting. Shoot with better lighting and you'll find your pics magically improve. Just my 2 cents...
 

Stereodude

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I should point out I wasn't trying to bust your balls with my earlier posts ddrueding. Sorry if they seemed overly harsh.
 

ddrueding

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No offense taken, Stereodude, I appreciate all the tips provided so far. I'm sure that the two biggest problems were lighting and DOF. The trick is, in order to improve lighting, I need to get the flash off the camera (so it can be off-angle, correct?) and diffuse it a bit (globe? reflector?). The alternative would be to get an assistant with a large reflector to go harvest some daylight somewhere and bounce it in, yes?

I think more than anything I'm learning that I just don't like taking pictures of people.
 

Stereodude

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I don't think a flash is going to have the power to overpower daylight if you try to diffuse it. If you're doing fill flash it's not as critical to diffuse it. To overpower daylight through a diffuser you need big strobes. That also means you need low shutter speeds which means small apertures or ND filters.
 

udaman

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I don't think a flash is going to have the power to overpower daylight if you try to diffuse it. If you're doing fill flash it's not as critical to diffuse it. To overpower daylight through a diffuser you need big strobes. That also means you need low shutter speeds which means small apertures or ND filters.

huh?

You want as high a flash sync speed as your cam will accommodate.


http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/syncspeed.htm

d.) If you have the freedom to go to a higher sync (shutter) speed you can use a higher ISO or larger aperture to keep the same ambient exposure while increasing the sensitivity to the flash. Most battery powered flashes have to work very hard to compete with direct sunlight unless they are very close. Faster sync lets you get further away or use less flash power. Using less flash power increases battery life and reduces recycling time which increases frame rate! See also Shooting Sequences with Flash.

For every stop of increased sync speed you only need half the flash power. Thus a smaller, less expensive flash may be all you need. Even better, the built-in flash might be all you need for fill!

Direct sunlight is harsh and needs fill.

And so is direct flash, which means you want diffused whenever it is possible.

I think what dd needs is something called a Nikon :D (certain models)
 

paugie

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I looked at the wedding pix...

huh?

You want as high a flash sync speed as your cam will accommodate.

And so is direct flash, which means you want diffused whenever it is possible.

I think what dd needs is something called a Nikon :D (certain models)

The pictures are records the couple should cherish over the years.
Sure, from a technical point of view one could say "This should have been..., that could have been..." But given the circumstances Dave must be credited for coming up with pictures such as those.

I would agree that the key to improving shots in those conditions lie in better fill-in flash. And some cameras (my old Olympus P&S for example) lend themselves better to balancing ambient light and fill-in flash. I dunno why my Pentax sucks in balancing fill and ambient. Guess I need to know the camera better.

Which is probably the situation Dave found himself in. He had not taken pictures of people before which required fill-in flash therefore he had not explored his camera's capability of coping with that. Nor was he given time or warning to prepare for such.

Now that David has mentioned his aversion to taking people pictures, I doubt he'd explore this further. Me, I'd beat myself up trying to find a solution. It's people I take pictures of. I suck at places and things. Or maybe just don't like them as much.
 

Stereodude

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huh?

You want as high a flash sync speed as your cam will accommodate.

http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/syncspeed.htm

And so is direct flash, which means you want diffused whenever it is possible.

I think what dd needs is something called a Nikon :D (certain models)
You know, sometimes it is better to keep your mouth shut when you have no idea what you're talking about then to open it and shout from the heavens to anyone within earshot that you have utterly no idea what you're talking about. :eek:wneddnce:

First of all, external strobes do not sync at high speed like the Canon flashes will. The Canon flashes can sync all the way up to fastest shutter speed on the camera. External stobes will top out around 1/200th or 1/250th. Hence when using an external strobe(s) you need to use a much slower shutter speed to achieve sync. And, wouldn't you know it that's exactly what I said. :frusty:

Second, the drivel you quoted from Ken Rockwell is misleading at best. Shortening the shutter speed does not directly reduce the amount of flash output needed for fill. The actual flash of light from the flash is super short. Considering that, the shutter speed has no real direct connection to the necessary flash output. If you go take pictures in a dim environment with the flash, the flash will use the same power whether you're shooting at 1/200th, or 1/20th.

Opening the aperture will reduce the amount of flash output needed to expose a shot, but it also lets in more ambient light. This necessitates a faster shutter speed to properly expose the shot when doing flash fill, but the aperture adjustment is what drives this, not the shutter speed. :bibber:

All this is just more proof Ken Rockwell is a windbag with no real handle on what he's talking about. :thumbleft:
 

Tea

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Actually, the Canon system for fill-flash is simplicity itself. If you just want fill flash in an otherwise exposed-by-natural-light photograph, what you have to do is:

(a) Turn the flash on
(b) Take the picture

Leave the camera in whatever mode you usually prefer: aperture priority for example. If you want more flash, add +ive flash exposure compensation, if you want less flash, use -ive FEC. Either way you press one button and turn a wheel. Adjust your overall exposure the same way you would without flash.

At any normal sort of shutter speed and focal length, your flash will have masses of spare power. (I'm assuming a proper flash here, not the built-in toy thing.)

When flash is a significant part of your overall lighting mix (i.e., not just fill), the secret is to split the workload: you control the amout of natural light, and you let the camera figure out how much flash to use. You give it overall direction with your flash exposure compensation (FEC), but don't try to micro-manage it. The natural light, you manage by using manual exposure. The thing is, you don't have to expose correctly manually - the flash system takes care of correct exposure for you - all you have to do is decide how much natural light you want as opposed to flash. Typically, this is to control your foreground-background lighting balance.

Here is an example:

090207-142838-rqc.jpg


This Striated Pardalote was taken in the middle of the day in deep shade, very strongly backlit. To expose it correctly with natural light, you are looking at ISO 3200 or worse - you can't allow your shutter speeds to blow out with birds this small, otherwise you just get massive motion blur - and hugely blown-out background highlights. But more than just the right amount of flash and the background becomes almost black, leading to that unnatural flash look. So you have to find the balance, which you do with manual exposure and automatic flash. In this case, the correct recipe was 500i, f/8, 1/1250th, with -2/3rds FEC.

Notice that shutter speed. You can take it up faster if you wish, the flash will cope just fine. I was using a Better Beamer (essentially a telephoto converter for the flashgun) but with a 700mm lens, the amount of light you are wasting is massive. Consider the following table:

Code:
Flash zoom      35mm FL      APS-C FL      Flash effect
105mm           105mm        66mm                  100%
105mm           150mm        130mm		   50%
105mm           300mm        188mm		   12.5%
105mm           640mm        400mm		   2.7%

Interpolating roughly from those figures, we can see that 700mm on an APS-H body gives me about 2% flash efficiency - in other words, I'm wasting around 98% of the light from the flash by spraying it around at places where the lens insn't pointing. The Better Beamer improves that to maybe 20% efficiency (wild guess). Notice that we are still operating at one fifth of the efficiency you can expect with a normal-length lens.

The point I'm making here is that even only having one-fifth of effective flash power available to me, I'm using 1/1250th of a second (and have often taken shots in similar lighting conditions at significantly higher shutter speeds). Rockwell's claims are flat wrong.
 
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