I had another 750GB -AS die this morning. It was actually kind of spectacular, and judging from the burns on the drive cage there was either fire or arcing. I smelled it, and there's visible damage to the smaller of the two ICs and some of the traces.
I checked my other 750GB -ASes and that chip is EXTREMELY warm on all of them. I'm pulling all those drives out of service now.
Heat is the enemy of most electronic devices
I admit the sample size is too low to be meaningful. I don't go through enough drives personally to ever have a meaningful sample size. Professionally, I only deal with 15K SCSI disks, moving to SAS at some point, and while those are pretty much all Seagates their falure rate has been something like 1 every 9 months across 96 drives. They've proven a lot more reliable than the 10K drives from older servers.
With all the doom & gloom pronouncements that not all of the drives die right away. Of course this drive hasn't been in service that long, but the Seagate 750 in a different machine has been fine for something closer to a year now.
The 1.5TB model is perfect for my Home Server. The main reason for the capacity is to store backups of the workstations. Other data we store there specifically - music, photos, etc. - is duplicated to a Samsung 500GB unit via the WHS Folder Duplication capability.
For my personal PC farm, to be honest, for the past 5 years or so all drives have been fine. Only one old 20GB PATA Samsung failed on me. The various WD, Maxtor, etc. drives were all fine when decommissioned & replaced with SATA units. I've only been using SATA since May '07 but haven't had any issues with any drives so far. That includes the afore mentioned Seagates, 3 500GB Samsungs, and an 80GB Fujutsu notebook drive.
Again over the past few years for my work notebooks, the Dell-supplied Hitachi seems to die around 18 months while the rpelacement lasts indefinitely. That's happened twice so far; we'll see what happens next summer when my current notebook hits that age.
Dells are notorious for cooking laptop drives, they just are not cooled adequately, hence many failed drives. Not sure why a replacement would last indefinitely, only you may be putting in a newer drive that has a slightly lower dissipation owing to greater efficiency, lower power consumption?
I really have had no problems with the Seagate AS drives. They are not the fastest, but they are good enough and much better than the WD's that run at 5400 which is their price competitor. However, I'm very displeased with the 1.5's slow write times.
I'm starting to wonder if the perpendicular drive technology that is driving these giant sizes is having performance issues that has not been discovered and/or discussed sufficiently by the media.
Could be, but I have another theory. It's a general manufacturing theory that applies to electronics, computers and extends in a like analogy to pretty much all products. You get what you pay for...and manufacturers facing extreme competition (much more so in todays fierce global economies) will use the lowest cost parts, that 'appear' to meet design spec's. Though I believe those parts are never adequately tested before pressure/demands of fast to market needs, limit amount of testing that can be done.
Cheap parts are the achillies heal of all manner of products.
My parents are elderly, in such weak/poor health they can no longer do many of the things that require even modest/minimal physical activity. Instead of them paying $50/hr or more for a plumber to do a simple replacement of a garden hose, 1/2in & 3/4in brass faucet valve. I do it for them. I'm shocked at the abysmal quality of rubber washers in these water valves. I recall replacing a washer on a made in the USA Champion brand brass valve...once the standard bearer of quality brass valves, water fittings. Last time I bought one of these Champion valves, it was a anti-siphon type, cost more for that feature...about $15 say, 5+yrs ago. But it started leaking, would drip, drip, drip after just a few years use. I tried to take it apart to replace the washer, which would have cost say 1/2 a dollar. Couldn't do it with the tools I had.
Bought an another American made brass valve at a different hardware store since the store I bought the Champion at, had switched to a less expensive made in China brand, with poorer quality handle on the shut-off. Other American brand that, while not anti-siphon, still costs $10+ at teh time a few years ago, best I can remember, the plastic barcode scan tag still attached around the stem of the valve. It started to leak also, damn!
Went to the store which still carries that line of valves, asked the salesman if he could give me the proper size replacement washer, as the new valve now costs $14. WTF, no reason to replace a relatively new brass valve because the crappy washer they are now using in these valves, only lasts for a few years before they start to leak. They guy took a new valve assembly back into the tool room, put it on a vice and tried to use wrenches to take it apart to figure out the size of the washer. He gave up after completely marring the brass surface with wrenches, unable to get it to come apart. You can with lots of labor, I have found unscrew the securing screw in the center of the washer, then with must fuss, and screw drivers, fold/bend the washer in half, remove it and replace in same manner...total PITA.
I told the guy, forget it, I'll just have to go buy the $6.99 cheaper Chinese valve, and replace that every few years when it starts to leak. massive waste of materials/manufacturing, all because every valve, it seems, is using inferior rubber washers. WTF, it would cost an additional dollar to and already expensive brass valve, to get a high quality silicon rubber washer...which would last for more than a few friggin years!!! Think of people who don't want to put up with a leaking garden faucet, lack skills or motivation to get required wrenches, and end up paying for the plumber to do this job...every few friggin years, all because of the use of inferior inexpensive parts. Pisses me off.
/end rant