Audio Equipment

Handruin

Handruin

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LunarMist

LunarMist

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Handruin said:
I put together some basic cables just for some fun.

The faux carbon fiber wire covering makes the sound extra, extra good. The wire boot pants bring out the extra detail in the highs and makes the bass strong and accurate. :razz:
Click to expand...

:rolleyes: Do you have any data to support that conclusion?
 
Handruin

Handruin

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I think I'm going to want a stronger amp for my setup. I've been noticing some breaking up (harshness) in the music with the volumes I've been listening to. I guess I do want my setup to be a little louder. I've really been thinking about getting the Emotiva XPA-3 (200 watts RMS x 3 into 8 ohms | 300 watts RMS x 3 into 4 ohms).
 
Handruin

Handruin

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Yes, but I don't know what to get. I was thinking about moving to the same unit you purchased. There was other mentions in different forums of a decent Marantz unit to go with. I've had no hands-on experience with their receivers.

One thing I haven't yet figured out is what is the most optimal method for triggering the AMP to turn on and off. This feature is built into their amps. Emotiva does sell a trigger accessory that can help handle this, but it seems to work based on an outlet that is switch in conjunction with the amp. One way I might be able to handle it is with a surge protector that also has a trigger...so in a sense it would trigger the trigger?
 
Handruin

Handruin

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Stereodude said:
Those are only rated for ~100W. He can't plug in a 300W x 3 power amp into it.
Click to expand...

No, but I could plug in the Emotiva ET-3 trigger which allows for itself to remember the state of the amp based on its own power state. Meaning, if the ET-3 trigger is powered off...off go the amps with it. When it is powered on, on go the amps. I would plug in the ET-3 into the switched outlet on the receiver.

In the 'On' position, all the triggers are constantly on, as long as the ET-3 itself is receiving power. This is particularly useful if your receiver/preamp/processor does not have a trigger output, but does have a switched outlet. If this is the case, plug the supplied ET-3 adapter into the switched outlet. The ET-3 will switch on/off along with the receiver/processor/preamp.
Click to expand...

SD, what do you do for your amps/setup?
 
ddrueding

ddrueding

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Handruin said:
No, but I could plug in the Emotiva ET-3 trigger which allows for itself to remember the state of the amp based on its own power state. Meaning, if the ET-3 trigger is powered off...off go the amps with it. When it is powered on, on go the amps. I would plug in the ET-3 into the switched outlet on the receiver.
Click to expand...

Sorry for not being more specific, that is what I had in mind.
 
Handruin

Handruin

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This Marantz AV7005 separate seems really nice. I need to read a lot more on it though. It supports balanced pre-outs as does the Emotiva amp. This could be useful down the road if my separates get moved further away from the amp. For short distances it's probably not worth it though.

I did see that it supports audio through the LAN connection. I've been looking at getting a Logitech Squeezebox for streaming flac files anyway, if this can be rolled into the receiver, I'd prefer that. The AV7005 manual says it supports FLAC files at 16/24 bit, but it doesn't specify the sample rate limits. It also supports a 12v out which I think could be used as a trigger. That along with the FLAC streaming would eliminate $390 of extra components I would buy for my setup (~$350 squeezebox touch + $40 trigger).
 
Handruin

Handruin

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I just got an RMA from newegg, they're giving me a full refund on the SR608. Now to figure out what I'll use to replace it.
 
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Stereodude

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Handruin said:
SD, what do you do for your amps/setup?
Click to expand...
In my great room I have two APC H15's. They have switched outlets that are controlled by the trigger outputs on a Pioneer Elite receiver.

In my library I have a Belkin PureAV PF60. It has switched outlets that is controlled by one of the trigger outputs on a Pioneer Elite receiver.

For my HT, I will be using a SurgeX SX1120RT and some 30A 120V relays that will switch several 20A circuits in my HT (since I'm using active speakers in the HT) and will use two pro amps for subs that can't be switched remotely. The Pre-Pro will control the SurgeX via a trigger output and the 30A relays will be controlled a 12V power supply plugged into one of the switched outlets on the SurgeX SX1120RT.
 
Handruin

Handruin

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The Belkin PF60 seems nice. I see it has two hi-current outlets for amps, do you power any amps with this unit. Is that what you are triggering with your Pioneer? Do you think the Belkin be able to handle a XPA-3 I mentioned above?
 
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fb

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Handruin said:
The Belkin PF60 seems nice. I see it has two hi-current outlets for amps, do you power any amps with this unit. Is that what you are triggering with your Pioneer? Do you think the Belkin be able to handle a XPA-3 I mentioned above?
Click to expand...
Maybe I'm missing the point or something here. But the Marantz you're looking at (that seems to be very good by the way) has two 12v 150mA trigger outputs. So, as far as I understand it there's no need for the Emotiva ET-3 or anything else to switch the amp on and off, at least at the moment?

I would not recommend a power filtering device. It's probably better and cheaper to just install a few more wall outlets. Or if you are really having problems with the electricity in your home - put the stereo on it's own fuse in the fuse box as the first step.

Remember, if it ain't broken, don't fix it.
 
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Stereodude

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Handruin said:
The Belkin PF60 seems nice. I see it has two hi-current outlets for amps, do you power any amps with this unit. Is that what you are triggering with your Pioneer? Do you think the Belkin be able to handle a XPA-3 I mentioned above?
Click to expand...
It has a subwoofer with a 400+W amp plugged into it.
 
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Stereodude

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ddrueding said:
The APC unit looks like the only one with actual battery storage/blackout capabilities?
Click to expand...
No, they don't have a battery. It has some sort of voltage trimming circuitry in it that uses relays (presumably multiple taps from a transformer). So, as the voltage levels changes you can hear them click.
 
LunarMist

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And a coat hanger holds up your shirts better than Monstrous Cable. :lol:
 
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BingBangBop

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I have to admit that if I used monster cable to hang up my shirts, I wouldn't be able to hear the difference either.
 
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