dSLR thread

ddrueding

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It will be my primary long/handheld/wildlife lens. The Sigma 175-500 is nowhere near sharp enough; and and haze/air quality prevent clear shots at that distance most of the time, anyway.

Is one sharper than the other? Does one focus faster? Their weights seem to be pretty close despite the focal length difference.
 

LunarMist

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I assume you meant the 300/4 IS vs. the 400/5.6. The original 300/4 is my favorite on FF, but has not been made since the 1990s. Nevertheless, the 100-400 would be more appropriate for your style. The 300/4 is more suited to lower light and shorter reach conditions, whereas the 400/5.6 is good for BIF (high shutter speeds) and landscapes (solid tripod) on FF. I have a pair of the 100-400s (center back rows of the photo I linked some months ago) but no longer have the 300/4 IS.

Have you tried the Sigma 50-500 OS? Consider renting one and comparing it to the Canon 100-400. I may do that in June, since it is uncertain how well either holds up to the tiny pixels in the 7D.
 

ddrueding

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The 100-400 was the first lens I ever considered buying, but for some reason I'd forgotten about it this time around. Thanks for the reminder. Is the new Sigma supposed to be sharper?
 

LunarMist

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Of course. The 170-500 was not a good lens. The old 50-500 without OS was much better. :brilsmurf:
I recall that Roger C. posted some ISO test charts when he started renting the lens.
 

LunarMist

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It is small, but not lightweight for the size. 7D is not such an improvement on the 50D as I had hoped. It would be nice to get ten keepers from the 7D, but I'll settle for five. :reindeer:
 

ddrueding

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Today was 50/1.4 appreciation day. In testing conditions, it really is (18M)pixel-sharp. In the field, maybe half that - still better than anything else I have. Also took some pictures of fireworks on the 4th that I like.

Both on my Flickr if you are interested.
 

paugie

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I just purchased an AF 28/2.8. 2nd hand. Been on the lookout for it for the last 4 months.
Will probably get to me before Christmas. ;-)

Am looking to trim my kit to the body, a DA70/2.4, a Takumar 70-200/4 and this F28/2.8. Still have a DA40/2.8 pancake but it does not fit my shooting habits.
 

LunarMist

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It is small, but not lightweight for the size. 7D is not such an improvement on the 50D as I had hoped. It would be nice to get ten keepers from the 7D, but I'll settle for five. :reindeer:

I returned the dog. I'm not sure how many tries are needed to get a good one? :rr:
 

LunarMist

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Servo AF did not seem to be good on static subjects using the * back button. I did not have time to mess with it.
 

LunarMist

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WTF? The price is higher now. :eek4: I have until August 4 to roll again.
 

ddrueding

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That is what happens when you forget to color calibrate your new laptop screen and do the PP while the client is still there, on that screen.

Take another look, and thanks for the catch.
 

LunarMist

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Neutral whites are not something to eyeball. Use the numerical values or look at the ab channels. The lighting looks rather flat and there is a seam near the bottom. Is the final output for internet sales?
 

Stereodude

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Take another look, and thanks for the catch.
You didn't light the cloth from underneath did you? :skepo:

For what it's worth, I've found the trick to good high key shots is to blow the background out with light when the shot is taken, not attempting to make it white in PS after. When you brighten the image you enlarge and cook the true highlights. With portraiture that means you need to have the subject away from the cyc wall with lights / strobes that are only lighting up the background. For product shots like that you need to use a translucent white cloth and light it from underneath with only just enough light to gently overexpose it. Obviously you need to light the subject from the front independently in both cases.
 

ddrueding

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You didn't light the cloth from underneath did you? :skepo:

For what it's worth, I've found the trick to good high key shots is to blow the background out with light when the shot is taken, not attempting to make it white in PS after. When you brighten the image you enlarge and cook the true highlights. With portraiture that means you need to have the subject away from the cyc wall with lights / strobes that are only lighting up the background. For product shots like that you need to use a translucent white cloth and light it from underneath with only just enough light to gently overexpose it. Obviously you need to light the subject from the front independently in both cases.

Yeah....no. I don't have that much gear, but thanks for the tips if I end up doing more of this. The lighting was nothing more than the 9 32w 4' tubes in the normal fixtures in my office, with an 80CM light tent sitting on my desk.
 

LunarMist

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Ah, so you will be exchanging it for another 7D? I thought you were returning it for something else.

I finally opened up the second one. Preliminary indications are better, but I have yet to test it with a long tele. The display reads a bogus value of 999 frames remaining with the new 32GB card installed. Dimwit Canon engineers must be mathematically challenged.
 

ddrueding

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I finally opened up the second one. Preliminary indications are better, but I have yet to test it with a long tele. The display reads a bogus value of 999 frames remaining with the new 32GB card installed. Dimwit Canon engineers must be mathematically challenged.

Mine does the same, I suspect it simply doesn't have enough digits.
 

LunarMist

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Mine does the same, I suspect it simply doesn't have enough digits.

My Nikon DSLRs - even the old ones - embrace a concept called decimals. For example, 1.2K is about 1200 frames. It's not quantum physics. :reindeer:
 
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