dSLR thread

LunarMist

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Right get that. The crop-factor doesn't magically change a lens.

But isn't it effectively 1280mm (vs FX sensor) on DD's crop 7Dii? :scratch::scratch:

The angle of view is approximately equivalent to a 1280mm lens on FX, but that's not the same thing, and often not a good thing.
With an FX lens you are throwing out ~56% of the image by using a DX sensor or 61% by using Canon EF-S.
 

LunarMist

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My camera goodies arrived early this week... In three boxes.

Two from Adorama and one from Best Buy. Best Buy box only contained the 50mm lens. One Adorama box only contained the 16-35mm zoom. The small boxes were packed with excellent padding and arrived in good shape.

The Big Adorama box is were I almost died. The big box contained; D610 body & 105mm macro lens. Also in the big box were additional accessories; battery grip, memory card, wireless adapter, extra battery, camera bag, plus some extra SD cards and filters.

See photos:
View attachment 863
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HORRIBLE box taping. Yes the tape was that bad. A little more tape please. The string in the tape was the only thing holding the box closed :(

LUCKILY and AMAZINGLY everything was still in the box. A SD card or filter could have easily slid out the open sides. All the small items should have been placed in their own box inside the big box.

The air bags were packed on all six side so at least that was good but there wasn't enough to keep things from bouncing around and shifting during shipping.

Very unimpressed with Adorama. From web-site to order to email notification to two phone calls to order packing and shipping. Probably won't use them again save a HUGE exclusive sale.

BH works for most people if you know what you want.
 

snowhiker

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Probably a little late to the thread but Amazon have the Sony 128GB UHS-I U3 microSD card for $71:http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MCJPSUO/

Late yes, but I still appreciate the input.

I have four PNY 64GB SD cards and four Sandisk 64GB SD cards. My D610 has two SD slots. I'm saving RAW+JPG (both max quality). I set camera so slot 2 is a backup/mirror/RAID-1 of slot 1. And even with the highest quality settings and backup I'm going to get around 800-1500 shots per pair. Four pairs of cards will be 3200-6000 shots.

The Field of View is equivalent to the longer lens.

The angle of view is approximately equivalent to a 1280mm lens on FX, but that's not the same thing, and often not a good thing.
With an FX lens you are throwing out ~56% of the image by using a DX sensor or 61% by using Canon EF-S.

I got it. Should have said field of view. The 100-400mm with 2x TC on 7Dii provides a whole lot of reach regardless. :)

The Canon 400mm f/5.6 prime is used by a lot of birders it seems, hence they must go Canon as the only 400mm lens Nikon has is the f/2.8 which is $8000-$10000 more expensive than the Canon f/5.6.

BH works for most people if you know what you want.

Only reason I went Adorama over B&H was because B&H's D610 kit included a "generic-brand" battery grip and battery, while Adorama kit had NIKON grip + battery.

I took 1500+ shots with my 105mm macro of honey bees with 90% being verticals so grip has already "paid" for itself.

I still need/want:

-lens/filter/camera cleaning supplies. (need this ASAP)
-larger or second camera bag. Kit bag too small for body + 3 lenses + accessories.
-main tripod.
-small/tabletop tripod.
-extra batteries. I have two EN-EL15 Li-IONs now might get two more.
-main flash & macro flash setups.
-remote/wireless release.

ANY SUGGESTIONS for above items appreciated. Any suggestions for other items I've missed that I'll end up needing would be greatly appreciated as well.

Again, THANKS to Lunar and other for suggestions/help/hand-holding.
 
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LunarMist

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I got it. Should have said field of view. The 100-400mm with 2x TC on 7Dii provides a whole lot of reach regardless. :)

The Canon 400mm f/5.6 prime is used by a lot of birders it seems, hence they must go Canon as the only 400mm lens Nikon has is the f/2.8 which is $8000-$10000 more expensive than the Canon f/5.6.



Only reason I went Adorama over B&H was because B&H's D610 kit included a "generic-brand" battery grip and battery, while Adorama kit had NIKON grip + battery.

I took 1500+ shots with my 105mm macro of honey bees with 90% being verticals so grip has already "paid" for itself.

I still need/want:

-lens/filter/camera cleaning supplies. (need this ASAP)
-larger or second camera bag. Kit bag too small for body + 3 lenses + accessories.
-main tripod.
-small/tabletop tripod.
-extra batteries. I have two EN-EL15 Li-IONs now might get two more.
-main flash & macro flash setups.
-remote/wireless release.

ANY SUGGESTIONS for above items appreciated. Any suggestions for other items I've missed that I'll end up needing would be greatly appreciated as well.

Again, THANKS to Lunar and other for suggestions/help/hand-holding.

I have a late version 400/5.6 moldering away in the closet somewhere. I used it a couple times in 2007, but that's all.
It has been a favorite handheld lens of wildlife photographers for a couple of decades due to the light weight, fast AF and good IQ. The 400/5.6 is rather pointless now IMO with the 100-400 II being such a good lens and finally having fine AF and excellent IS.

Reach is a different parameter. Essentially it's the pixel pitch, assuming that the image quality is sufficient per pixel.
For example, the 5DsR has about the same reach as the 7D II, but with the full 50MP instead of only 20. In Nikon land 54MP on FX would be needed to match the reach of the 24MP DX bodies.

For cleaning lenses, use tissues with ROR solution, microfibers cloth, and Lenspens for fingerprints and organic smudges.

There are a gazillion different bags and backpacks. What do you have and how do you shoot?

The ML-L3 is fine as a basic release, but it needs to be held toward the plane of the body or forward of that.
Vello makes some cheap remote releases. I received a Shutterboss for Canon with a body once as a stupid promo. It seems to work, though I have limited use for it. I can see some value for long/multiple exposures such as at night.

I've never used a grip with a DSLR so I'm not sure why you need it. I assume that is also the reason for the second set of batteries.

I have not looked at the macro flashes for Nikon, but you have two basic options or combinations thereof. 1) Use a macro flash on the camera/bracket for the main lights and then add another flash for the background when needed. 2) Use off-camera lights to light everything. The former is more portable, especially if all flashes are on a bracket, but the latter allows more control and use of more lights. A lot depends on the versatility vs. portability you need and the size of the subjects. At lower magnifications it can be nice to light up a larger area.

A good tripod, head, macro bracket, and plates can be as costly as the camera. What kind of budget do you have?
 

snowhiker

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I have a late version 400/5.6 moldering away in the closet somewhere. I used it a couple times in 2007, but that's all.
It has been a favorite handheld lens of wildlife photographers for a couple of decades due to the light weight, fast AF and good IQ.

Light weight, fast AF and IQ are excellent reasons to use any particular lens. But I think the low cost of entry is a factor as well. Easier, cost-wise for the non-pro, to jump into wildlife photography with a f/5.6 than f/2.8.

If you never use your 400mm f/5.6 is there any reason you haven't sold it? Of course I have tons of books, some I've never read, that I'd never get rid of.

The 400/5.6 is rather pointless now IMO with the 100-400 II being such a good lens and finally having fine AF and excellent IS.

It is amazing that modern zooms are so close, and in some cases have passed, the IQ of primes. Makes me jealous that the Nikon 80-400 (even the newer version) is not as fine as the Canon 100-400.

Reach is a different parameter. Essentially it's the pixel pitch, assuming that the image quality is sufficient per pixel.
For example, the 5DsR has about the same reach as the 7D II, but with the full 50MP instead of only 20. In Nikon land 54MP on FX would be needed to match the reach of the 24MP DX bodies.

I have a fuller understanding now of how the "crop-factor" works now.

For cleaning lenses, use tissues with ROR solution, microfibers cloth, and Lenspens for fingerprints and organic smudges.

I guess I'm just worried about using the "wrong" lens cleaning solution and destroying the multi-coatings on the front element of my lenses. I'll pick-up some ROR solution and associated supplies. Seems there are 342616 different cleaning kits at B&H I'll check them out.

There are a gazillion different bags and backpacks. What do you have and how do you shoot?

Doh. I guess there are a million different bags. Guess I was just fishing for a suggestion about X, Y or Z brands that are good. But there may be so many it might be "whatever you like" type of thing.

I just have this small Nikon bag that came with my D610 kit. The interior is only 4" x 11". It can hold two of my lenses, filters, USB cable, SD cards and other misc items, but then it's full. No place for my camera body and third lens that's attached to body. That's why I was thinking of getting a second, larger bag, with the smaller one being "overflow"

I guess I'll be shooting like a tourist a good portion of the time and hiking other times so perhaps some backpack-type bag would be better than a "traditional" bag. Looking for general suggestions on brands/types/etc. Don't buy "x" shit brand because they fall apart and other general advice. Maybe waterproof/resistant.


The ML-L3 is fine as a basic release, but it needs to be held toward the plane of the body or forward of that.
Vello makes some cheap remote releases. I received a Shutterboss for Canon with a body once as a stupid promo. It seems to work, though I have limited use for it. I can see some value for long/multiple exposures such as at night.

I guess I don't really need wireless. Just something to activate the shutter while camera on tripod and vibrations need to be eliminated as much as possible. Or night/ME like you said. Probably just buy whatever Nikon sells.

I've never used a grip with a DSLR so I'm not sure why you need it. I assume that is also the reason for the second set of batteries.

I was thinking about extra batteries in case I'm in the middle of nowhere, in winter, and I lose power. Plus one of my "new" EN-EL15's is almost 2 years old (June'2013 date) so don't know how long it will still operate at 100% power.

My battery grip came with two battery carriers. One for the EN-EL15 Li-Ion battery and one that holds 6 standard AA batteries. Don't know if I should invest in a bunch of AA rechargeable batteries and charger or just have four EN-EL15s. As I'll never be more than a few hours (maybe 1-3 days) from a 120v AC outlet.

When I say "battery grip" are you thinking of something different than the "vertical grip" that is permanently attached, and part of your 1Dx? If that's the case then I'm sorry. I meant vertical grip. I found out how useful the vertical grip was today. I have blooming Aloe Vera plants in my backyard. They look exactly like this. Anyways I installed my 105mm macro lens and was going to take some close up shots. As the bloom stalks are very thin and vertical it made sense to shoot in the vertical orientation. As it so happens there were some bees enjoying the flowers and I thought I'd try to take some close up shots of the bees. They were very tame and did not molest me one bit. I now have over 1500 shots of bees. Most taken with the camera in the vertical position. I spent a couple hours walking around the plants taking wildlife shots with my macro lens so I think the vertical grip paid off. LOL. And wow, this is a whole discussion on AF-points and how the wrong one seems to always be the one to get the focus when you are shooting wildlife-macro shots. Need to figure out how (if I can) to only use ONE AF point.

I have not looked at the macro flashes for Nikon, but you have two basic options or combinations thereof. 1) Use a macro flash on the camera/bracket for the main lights and then add another flash for the background when needed. 2) Use off-camera lights to light everything. The former is more portable, especially if all flashes are on a bracket, but the latter allows more control and use of more lights. A lot depends on the versatility vs. portability you need and the size of the subjects. At lower magnifications it can be nice to light up a larger area.

I think the macro flash setup might be a bit down the road but I should probably pick up some type of general use flash (for use on hot-shoe) in case I need more than the built in flash can handle.

A good tripod, head, macro bracket, and plates can be as costly as the camera. What kind of budget do you have?

I won't be making money with my photography so I don't need a truly professional tripod and head. I won't have an uber-tele lens attached to body. I know light-weight and study don't go together but I might be trekking some distance so it can't weigh 27 lbs either. Say 10'ish lbs max. Hard to judge weight. Maybe 10# is too light. Doesn't have to be 6' tall fully extended, I can crouch to look through viewfinder.

Honestly, light and decent for the price is what I'll need.

Can't really justify more than $200. $300 is fine if the quality/options, low weight are there. I know that's probably a low number but I really only need basic "hold camera still and level" setup.

Thanks for taking the time to read/reply. I appreciate it.
 

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What shutter speed are you hand-holding 1280mm at? Are you getting 4-stops of IS or closer to 2-3?

I'd have to go back and check, but it was pretty darn good. The shot was steady even slower, but the subject was moving. I have no idea how to accurately test the effectiveness of IS to that level of accuracy.
 

snowhiker

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I'd have to go back and check, but it was pretty darn good. The shot was steady even slower, but the subject was moving. I have no idea how to accurately test the effectiveness of IS to that level of accuracy.

I guess as a general rule you need 1/lens mm shutter speed for sharp pictures. So with your 100-400mm and 2x TC you should be around 1/1000 at the long end (assuming no IS). If you can get sharp shots at 1/60 that would be 4 stops of IS. Lunar says the IS is very good on that lens so you may be getting close to the actual specified amount of IS. Generally, if a lens claims 4 stops, count on 2-2.5, maybe 3 stops as a general rule to have 80+% of your pics sharp.

At least that is the feeling I get reading some reviews of lenses and IS.
 

LunarMist

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Thanks for taking the time to read/reply. I appreciate it.

I never sell anything anymore. It just piles up and the ancestors will may have to deal with them after I'm gone.
The 400/5.6 is over 20 years old and does not contain any fluorite elements. It was one of the first unleaded Canon tele lens designs produced and therefore is allowed to continue in production.

The key to cleaning is to make sure that inorganic hard materials (granite or quartz dust/dirt for example) are cleaned when the lens is wet. Organic oils can be removed with a microfiber lens cloth or Lenspen directly. When in doubt a wet clean with tissue or cheap microfiber followed by a final microfiber wipe to remove any residues usually works. A Lenspen is good for a fingerprint, but don't let it sit too long.

The ML-L3 is fine for activation of the shutter on a tripod. They are cheap and one even went through the wash without much damage.

AA cells don't work very well in most battery grips. Get additional LiIon batteries.

There are some decent cheap flashes, but they can drive one crazy with compatibility issues in multi-flash setups. I can't even begin to suggest any particular models.

There a ton of tripod legs, but in the budget category I'd look at an aluminum Manfrotto or perhaps Induro/Benro.
Cheap ballheads are all over the place. Basically whatever cheap support stuff you buy will need to be replaced once you figure that out.
You will also learn that Arca-Swiss compatible lens plates and camera L-brackets are the way to go.
 

snowhiker

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Tripod and Head. Thanks for the Manfrotto tip Lunar.

I'm going to go with the Manfrotto BeFree with basic ball head for $200.

3 vs 7.7 pounds.
$200 vs $340.
16" v 24" folded size.

Also considered the Manfrotto MT055XPRO3 Aluminum Tripod for $240.
and the Manfrotto MHXPRO-3W 3-Way Pan/Tilt Head for $140.

The tripod and head in a combo deal for $340.

This will give me a pretty decent quality basic travel tripod that can be carried for miles on a trail with little effort. And if I eventually need a bigger/heavier/sturdier tripod I can get a more professional one in the future.
 

snowhiker

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Camera sling and a backpack are the two main things I have left to get. For now. I know I don't want to keep using the "stock" Nikon neck strap and need to get some type of sling. The "Black Rapid" is the first thing that jumps to mind but there are several brands/types. Almost too many brands and options.

As far as backpacks go I'm eyeing this Lowepro backpack. Looks big enough for body + 3 lenses + accessories + hiking essentials. Looking for something like this.

Any suggestions, advice, recommendations, comments, etc on the above two items greately appreciated.

A good flash* is also something I know I want, but it can wait till I get more proficient with the gear I have.




*"Flash" includes flash, off-shoe cables, brackets, macro setups, etc.
 

LunarMist

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Camera sling and a backpack are the two main things I have left to get. For now. I know I don't want to keep using the "stock" Nikon neck strap and need to get some type of sling. The "Black Rapid" is the first thing that jumps to mind but there are several brands/types. Almost too many brands and options.

As far as backpacks go I'm eyeing this Lowepro backpack. Looks big enough for body + 3 lenses + accessories + hiking essentials. Looking for something like this.

Any suggestions, advice, recommendations, comments, etc on the above two items greately appreciated.

A good flash* is also something I know I want, but it can wait till I get more proficient with the gear I have.


*"Flash" includes flash, off-shoe cables, brackets, macro setups, etc.

I have almost two dozen bags and backpacks, but you'll have to find one that fits your gear and body. Don't start with something that is barely large enough.
I use the old Optech or Tamrac type of neoprene strap with the quick releases. I rarely use a strap but it's there to clip onto the QR when needed.
The upside down hanging straps with all the custom modifications are not my thing.
Just make sure there are at least two independent points of attachment. People always get upset when their black rapid rapidly dumps the gear on the concrete.
 

snowhiker

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Don't start with something that is barely large enough.

That's a good point. I don't want to keep re-buying bags as I acquire more gear. I want to get one more lens, probably a 24-70mm or similar zoom. Don't think I'll be looking into getting a 70-200mm or longer tele anytime soon. If I do become more interested in shooting wildlife and get a tele I won't be taking all the smaller lenses along with me so I don't need a huge bag.


Just make sure there are at least two independent points of attachment. People always get upset when their black rapid rapidly dumps the gear on the concrete.

Yeah that's the worry. This Joby system looks interesting. Adjustable length sling strap. Hand strap with Arca-Swiss plate or standard tripod socket. All available without having to take the sling off to use tripod socket. But shooting vertical might be a problem.
 

snowhiker

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My two additional EN-EL15 L-ion batteries arrived. Consecutive S/N. 20141007xxxx15 and xxxx16. The Oct'2014 date is better than the June'2013 I got with the body.

The Manfrotto BeFree tripod arrived. It's great or crap, depending on usage. As a well-made, small (15.75” folded length), portable, light (3 lbs) tripod it's very nice. Nice carry bag. Great travel tripod if you are on the go, hiking, don't have any sherpas, etc.

But if you have heavier gear and/or a tele lens (a 70-200mm would probably be pushing it), or in windy conditions, or in a studio, it's too small, light weight, with a flimsy head.

It's a good little tripod for my probable usage. I'm going to be happy with it.
 

snowhiker

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As far as backpacks go I'm eyeing this Lowepro backpack. Looks big enough for body + 3 lenses + accessories + hiking essentials.

My backpack camera bag came in. Here is a shot of what it looks like filled up...

backpack.JPG

Camera body with attached battery grip and 105mm Macro lens. Above that is the battery charger. To the right is the 16-35mm. Above the zoom is the body cap and 105mm rear cap. Above that is the 50mm. To the left of 105 is some filter cases.

I can remove the battery charger and lens caps and move dividers around to get one more lens (24-70mm'ish) in there. Long zooms and teles probably won't work with this bag. The lens attached to the body can be 8" (21cm) in length by removing dividers.

Upper half of the bag an open area about the size of the camera section.

backpack2.JPG

Here is the top section open. My little Manfrotto befree tripod fits in the side tripod pouch and have one strap holding the top.

Laptop and/or ipad'ish slot on side.

This Joby system looks interesting. Adjustable length sling strap. ..... But shooting vertical might be a problem.

Strap came in as well. 100000000000% better than Nikon included neck strap. Feels very secure and you barely notice the weight on your shoulder. If you don't have a sling strap. You NEED to get one.
 

LunarMist

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I don't understand the link to the blocked file (video?) for the strap.
You might want to ditch the plastic rear LCD cover and get something better. I've tried about ten types and these are really nice.
 

snowhiker

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I don't understand the link to the blocked file (video?) for the strap.
You might want to ditch the plastic rear LCD cover and get something better. I've tried about ten types and these are really nice.

Yes I need to get a better LCD cover. The stock one is doing its job for now and it's pretty secure and won't fall off easily. Thanks for the link.

Don't know why the video for the Joby won't load for you? Youtube link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3eryRFR87xI
If link doesn't work just go to Youtube and search for "Joby UltraPlate with HandStrap" should be the first video. I didn't get the hand strap just the sling strap. I may get the hand strap in the future.

In my above pic you can see I picked up a Hoodman HoodEYE Eyecup as well.

For camera usage I'm doing "back-button focus" to handle focus and using Auto-ISO while in "M"anual mode for exposure.

I'm going on a road trip this Friday through Thursday to northern-AZ and southern-Utah so we'll see if I can take any good pics. Zion NP, Bryce Canyon NP, Capital Reef NP, Canyon Lands NP and a few National Monuments.
 

snowhiker

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I got the Joby sling and hand strap along with one of their tripod ballhead mounts. Really nice.

Good to hear that someone else thought the Joby was the way to go. I think you'd be paralyzed pretty quick if you had to walk around with your 7Dii + 100-400mm + 2x TC with just a neck strap. Even my 105mm macro lens is too much to hang down from my neck.

I still need to get some type of flash setup, but that's a bit down the road especially since my car repairs took $1000 out of my pocket. Also need to get all the associated computer software needed to edit images and such. I'm shooting RAW + JPGs so I'll have the RAW image files I can edit at a later date.
 

LunarMist

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Yes I need to get a better LCD cover. The stock one is doing its job for now and it's pretty secure and won't fall off easily. Thanks for the link.

Don't know why the video for the Joby won't load for you? Youtube link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3eryRFR87xI
If link doesn't work just go to Youtube and search for "Joby UltraPlate with HandStrap" should be the first video. I didn't get the hand strap just the sling strap. I may get the hand strap in the future.

In my above pic you can see I picked up a Hoodman HoodEYE Eyecup as well.

For camera usage I'm doing "back-button focus" to handle focus and using Auto-ISO while in "M"anual mode for exposure.

I'm going on a road trip this Friday through Thursday to northern-AZ and southern-Utah so we'll see if I can take any good pics. Zion NP, Bryce Canyon NP, Capital Reef NP, Canyon Lands NP and a few National Monuments.

Is this it?
 

snowhiker

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Yessir. That's the Joby Pro Sling Strap I bought. From that exact link actually.

Look on the bright side, I'm about to pick up an additional $1000/mo cost. My camera spending is probably over for a while.

Other than my 2013 computer purchase (in my sig) and recent DSLR purchase I haven't bought anything nice for myself (over $500) for a good 8 years. So yeah, for me I'm going nuts with the spending but it's all paid for, no credit cards.
 

mubs

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Snowhiker, tell me how you like your three lenses. I have the AF-S Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8G ED, AF-S VR-Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8G SWM VR ED, and the AF Nikkor 35mm f/2.0D. The first is my most used, the last I've used a bit, almost never used the 70-200; just never got the occasion to. I've been wanting a prime and the 105 Macro, but will have to wait till I accumulate the cash.
 

snowhiker

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Snowhiker, tell me how you like your three lenses. I have the AF-S Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8G ED, AF-S VR-Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8G SWM VR ED, and the AF Nikkor 35mm f/2.0D. The first is my most used, the last I've used a bit, almost never used the 70-200; just never got the occasion to. I've been wanting a prime and the 105 Macro, but will have to wait till I accumulate the cash.

Honestly I can't tell you much yet as I've only had them for a couple weeks. They are big and expensive and heavy Nikon lenses but they aren't in the same "build quality" class as your 24-70 and 70-200.

By prime do you mean the 50mm? I think you'd be better served by your 24-70, unless you really need f/1.4 for low light/DOF isolation. The f/1.4G and f/1.8G are nearly identical as far as image quality goes but the 2/3 of an f/stop will double the price. I got the f/1.4 because I wanted a f/1.4. It's the only f/1.4 I could afford. I'd love a Nikon version of DD's Canon 24mm f/1.4 but it's $2200.

I got the macro because I thought it was something I might be interested in and a friend of mine mentioned the same thing, so I got it. But I'm really glad I got it. The thing will focus 5" from the front element. I'm really enjoying just walking up to flowers, plants, even bees or flies and taking close up shots. I think you will enjoy a macro lens. I'll post some macro shots.

The Tokina 100mm f/2.8 AT-X M100 AF Pro D is a good macro lens, photozone test here. Lenstip test here. The Tokina is only $380 @ B&H photo. No VR and AF is "slower" but for any serious macro work you'll use a tripod anyways.
 

LunarMist

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Honestly I can't tell you much yet as I've only had them for a couple weeks. They are big and expensive and heavy Nikon lenses but they aren't in the same "build quality" class as your 24-70 and 70-200.

By prime do you mean the 50mm? I think you'd be better served by your 24-70, unless you really need f/1.4 for low light/DOF isolation. The f/1.4G and f/1.8G are nearly identical as far as image quality goes but the 2/3 of an f/stop will double the price. I got the f/1.4 because I wanted a f/1.4. It's the only f/1.4 I could afford. I'd love a Nikon version of DD's Canon 24mm f/1.4 but it's $2200.

I got the macro because I thought it was something I might be interested in and a friend of mine mentioned the same thing, so I got it. But I'm really glad I got it. The thing will focus 5" from the front element. I'm really enjoying just walking up to flowers, plants, even bees or flies and taking close up shots. I think you will enjoy a macro lens. I'll post some macro shots.

The Tokina 100mm f/2.8 AT-X M100 AF Pro D is a good macro lens, photozone test here. Lenstip test here. The Tokina is only $380 @ B&H photo. No VR and AF is "slower" but for any serious macro work you'll use a tripod anyways.

Many of the old shaft drive AF lenses are not anything to AF with on moving subjects, especially in the macro range. At close distances consider using your body to focus. On a copy stand of course one would use manual focus.
 

snowhiker

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I'm going on a road trip this Friday through Thursday to northern-AZ and southern-Utah so we'll see if I can take any good pics. Zion NP, Bryce Canyon NP, Capital Reef NP, Canyon Lands NP and a few National Monuments.

I got back from my trip late Thursday afternoon. Trip turned into a "photography" trip instead of the traditional "road trip" so only went to the "Little Colorado" gorge (just east of Grand Canyon NP), Zion and Bryce. Just over 1000 miles but most of that was first and last day. My friend and I took about 2100 pics.

Some random trip observations off the top-of-my-head:

1) Having only one camera between two photographers sucks. We'd always see something "interesting" when the other guy had the camera. If my friend doesn't have a DSLR when we take another trip were going to rent one.

2) Rough percentages of cameras seen: 50% smartphones, 40% "point-n-shoots" and 10% were DSLR types. 90% of the DSLRs were crop and/or "compact" DSLRs. I don't recall seeing any Canon full-frame cameras and other than two Nikon D810 and a D800e I didn't see any other Nikon full-frame cameras, other than my D610. 60-70% of the all DSLRs were being held by foreign visitors.

3) Lots of East Asian and Eastern European Tourists, some from Western European countries and India as well. I don't think we went five minutes without hearing a foreign language. Perhaps the ratio of native to foreign visitors will change during the summer ("no school") months. I have no problem with this of course, just an interesting observation.

4) Still have a lot to learn on how to operate my camera. At one point the single AF point got moved to the bottom left corner of the AF grid and couldn't figure out how to move it back to the center. Fixed now. LOL.

5) The polarizing filter is amazing at eliminating or reducing reflections in water or on rocks. It also works well to bring out the sky, but beware, it can really destroy the sky in a landscape shot, especially at 16mm. Several of our photos were ruined by dark blue sky "banding" caused by uneven polarization. We did figure this out so most of the photos were OK.

6) Shooting down canyons or up mountains is really a pain, exposure wise, to get right. The canyon may look good, but the sky and top of mountains (or any other highlights) are totally "blown out." We bracketed most of our shots with good exposure being one to two stops underexposed. Really uneven lighting, dark shadows to direct sun. Unfortunately most of the shots at the "Little Colorado" gorge were over-exposed due to not knowing how to operate camera and/or not bracketing exposures.

7) Having only a 16-35mm lens is not enough for landscape photography. There were many times when more reach would have been optimal at isolating details. Seems counter-intuitive being in a 1/16-1/4 mile wide canyon with 1000-1500 foot walls of rock that more reach would be desired. I'm thinking a 24-120 (or 24-85mm) lens would be an ideal second lens to a 16-35. Neither would be as sharp as the 24-70 but seriously wondering if 70mm would be enough reach.

8) Seems the national parks have a $25 entrance fee now, good for one carload of people, once. They used to have a daily $8 entrance fee or $15 for a 7-day pass. No longer have the 7-day pass. Annual pass to all national parks is $80. If you stay in a motel just outside the park you are going to go in-n-out multiple times. GET THE ANNUAL PASS. We went in-n-out of Zion and Bryce twice so pass already paid for itself, and any subsequent entrance fees are now free. If you are 65 or older a lifetime pass is $10.

9) Didn't make any motel reservations as I thought we'd just be on a random road trip and didn't know how long we would stay each night. I'll plan ahead a bit next time and stay at either the Zion or Bryce Canyon lodge. Anyways we stayed in Flagstaff on first night up, then two nights in Zion and two in Bryce. Springdale, town right outside of Zion is a friggin zoo. Had to check 4 motels before we found a vacancy on a room with two beds. Had to split the two nights in Bryce between two motels as we couldn't get two night together in same motel.

Wide range in motel price and quality. Price range $70-260/night. I felt the $70/night "dive" motel with the "leaking water onto the floor from behind the toilet" we stayed at in Flagstaff was a better value than the $260/night Holiday-Inn we stayed in Springdale. The Best Western outside of Bryce was average at $100/night, but the Best Western PLUS across the street for $130/night was AWESOME. Not only did the PLUS motel have the best free breakfast I ever had, it was better than any PAID breakfast I've had in a long time. If you are going to Bryce stay at the Best Western PLUS motel just outside the park.

Probably some others I'll remember later. I'll post some pics in the picture posting thread after I go through them.
 
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Handruin

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Sounds like an awesome trip. I did a similar trip to NV, AZ, UT back in 2011. I tried to mark out every location on the map but some of it was a guess. We covered probably 2K miles over two weeks when taking this trip. We flew into Vegas and rented a car and did a big loop through the states. We started south through AZ and then headed north/north east into Utah.

Much like you I also noticed numerous East Asian and Eastern European Tourists. We commented about this during our trip because we were surprised given the area. We only booked a couple hotels and the rest we booked while we drove in the car. Lodging was made mostly spur of the moment but one of the best vacations I've ever taken. We did book a lodge on the rim of the grande canyon which was nice. The hotels in Vegas were cheap and of decent quality. We also bought the annual park pass because it made it such a great deal.

We visited so many of the national parks during our trip that it paid for itself in no time. My favorite classy park was Zion and my favorite hike and explore on your own, was Canyonlands. I feel like I missed out a bit at Bryce because I think the altitude caught up to me and I was just beat and didn't want to get out of the car to explore. We took thousands of pictures over the two weeks between two cameras and a bunch of lenses.

The highest elevation we made it to was 11,307 feet at Brian Head Peak. That was a neat view and also made me a bit winded at that height.

I'll post some pictures over in the other thread for photos.
 

LunarMist

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I used to visit 4 corner states every year for about 15 years. I probably have over 100,000 frames.
I'm returning again this year after the absences caused by medical conditions. I can't hike more than a few miles with 30+ lbs. anymore though.
I may use the Sony this time, at least with the wider Canon lenses like the TSEs.
 

snowhiker

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I'm considering picking up the Nikon 28-70 f/2.8D zoom. It's $800 on ebay. Or $330'ish here. Any issues using Canadian ebay from U.S.?

Photozone.de tests show it to be at sharp as the $1900, 24-70mm f/2.8G nikkor. Well, a bit sharper wide open and in the corners, and a bit less sharp in the center. The 28mm also has less vignetting and chromatic aberrations, but bokeh not as pleasant as the 24mm.

A used 28-70mm is only about 40% the cost of a new 24-70mm. Then again I've never bought anything from ebay and that could be a nightmare in itself.

Comments or suggestions on a SHARP alternative (24-28)mm to (70-85)mm zoom.
 

LunarMist

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I'm considering picking up the Nikon 28-70 f/2.8D zoom. It's $800 on ebay. Or $330'ish here. Any issues using Canadian ebay from U.S.?

Photozone.de tests show it to be at sharp as the $1900, 24-70mm f/2.8G nikkor. Well, a bit sharper wide open and in the corners, and a bit less sharp in the center. The 28mm also has less vignetting and chromatic aberrations, but bokeh not as pleasant as the 24mm.

A used 28-70mm is only about 40% the cost of a new 24-70mm. Then again I've never bought anything from ebay and that could be a nightmare in itself.

Comments or suggestions on a SHARP alternative (24-28)mm to (70-85)mm zoom.

The first 28-70/2.8 Nikkor was the AF-S lens. I bought one in 2000 not long after introduction. It was a fine lens for the era and would still be considered so at the mid and longer end. At 28 it was weak until stopped down to the middle aperture range.

Apparently the USM "S" AF motors were not so good in the Nikons in the early 2000s, so make sure it does not squeak or make other noises indicative of impending failure. The lens was robust and heavy, but can be knocked out of alignment or otherwise internally damaged, so make sure there is a return policy or the cost is low enough to accept a failure.

Capitalizing sharp makes me tend to think you would be better off with primes, but they are out of your budget.
 

snowhiker

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The first 28-70/2.8 Nikkor was the AF-S lens. I bought one in 2000 not long after introduction. It was a fine lens for the era and would still be considered so at the mid and longer end. At 28 it was weak until stopped down to the middle aperture range.

Apparently the USM "S" AF motors were not so good in the Nikons in the early 2000s, so make sure it does not squeak or make other noises indicative of impending failure. The lens was robust and heavy, but can be knocked out of alignment or otherwise internally damaged, so make sure there is a return policy or the cost is low enough to accept a failure.

Capitalizing sharp makes me tend to think you would be better off with primes, but they are out of your budget.

Good info. As far as how sharp the 28-70 is I was just using the photozone.de charts and it looked good as compared to the 24-70. Your mention of the 2000-era AF motors is something I didn't think about or know about. And that would definitely be a concern for a 15 year old used lens.

If a decent alternative to the Nikkor 24-70 f/2.8 exists that decently sharp and lower cost I'm all ears. I'm open to suggestions as I'm pretty sure I need something in that range. Perhaps I should just pick up the Nikkor 24-85 f/3.5-4.5, NEW, for $600 and be happy. It's not as sharp as either the 24-70 or 28-70 or f/2.8 fast but I may never be good enough to need the extra sharpness and speed anyways.

And I'd love primes, but I don't think they would work for me for two reasons. One cost. Two how I take pictures. I lugged the 50mm and 105mm around with me on my trip but I used the 16-35mm the entire time, except for one occasion when we put the 105mm on to shoot some semi distant deer. Just didn't feel like swapping lenses all that much.

Again good info. Thanks.
 

LunarMist

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Sweet.

The lens I wanted just came up for sale on fleabay.

Why? What would you use it for? Many of the used ones were converted to PL or other mount for cine use.
Back in the early 80s high speed films were of limited ISO and had mediocre quality, so f/2 was useful for some indoor sports at the Olympics for example. Today a 300/2.8 is just fine for practical purposes.
 
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