UPS Help

LunarMist

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Now there is another problem. The UPS in the master bedroom is completely dead. It is not feasible to replace directly because the AC outlet is behind some furniture. :crap: The cord is the standard type that pugs into most computer power supplies, etc. Is there some kind of adapter or cord that can take that end and convert it to a female AC socket so that another UPS could be used? Thanks.
 

LunarMist

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Grrrr. Another UPS conked out today. Too many power outages. :(
 

Bozo

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At the rate UPSs fail at work, I think they are time bombed by the manufacturer. They need to sell new ones.
 

MaxBurn

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Gel cell batteries listed as a 5 year battery typically fail in that 3 year old range.
 

LunarMist

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The second APC XS 1300LCD is acting strangely. After it discharges below about 40%, the battery level drops like a rock. Are the batteries defective or perhaps it just needs a few charge cycles?
 

Pradeep

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The % discharged figure can be inaccurate. Are you getting the expected number of minutes for a specific load? What is the displayed load vs capacity?
 

LunarMist

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What I mean is that if the display shows 60 minutes remaining with power on and then I cut the power, after 30 minutes it will still read ~30 minutes remaining. About 5 minutes later the remaining time will start to drop quickly and then reach the critical warning at the 40 minute point. That is a relatively low load. My first 1300 does not do that. It discharges rather linearly even at a load with ~20 minute run time. I'm going to let the second UPS charge for two days and then test it again. I hope the batteries are not weak to start with.
 

sechs

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My batteries fail like clockwork every 2-3 years, but the unit itself seems fine.
I can't say that I've ever had a UPS fail due to the batteries.

Then again, for a while there, Belkin was supplying me with a new UPS every six months or so....
 

LunarMist

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I question whether the battery is truly defective. Is it possible that something is wrong with the UPS? I hesitate to get another battery. It is a major hassle to dispose of batteries since it would be a 25 mile drive a least.

The battery died again. Those Chinese batteries are crap. :(
 

Pradeep

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If it's failing in the same UPS, can you try it in another one? It may be that the charging circuitry etc has been fubared in the current UPS you are having trouble with.

If under warranty I would insist on a replacement by APC.
 

LunarMist

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I thought about that. The original battery in one UPS died last February and the replacement recently died as well. Unfortunately it had only a 12-month warranty. Then I substituted the second UPS, which was a few months younger, but it died after a few minutes. So I replaced both batteries. After 24 hours of charging both lasted about 30 minutes under the intended load. However, one maintained the normal beeps for about 25 minutes and then the urgent beeps for 5 minutes, whereas the other reached the urgent beep stage after only ten minutes. I'm hoping that the new batteries last longer, but I don't trust them like the original ones that lasted 3-4 years.
 

LunarMist

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I'm leaving the extra UPS plugged in. That is best for the battery, right?
 

MaxBurn

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Plugged in for three or four days a month should be fine.
 

LunarMist

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Maybe one of those weekly timers would work, for example charge all day on a Sunday. I wonder how power the UPS uses when doing nothing.
 

MaxBurn

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An outlet timer isn't going to help you charge a UPS...
 

ddrueding

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Just thought I'd throw out a recommendation for the APC Back-UPS RS LCD series (available in 700, 1300, 1500). I just got one for the coffin at home. It basically has a Kill-A-Watt (and then some) built in. Without a connection to a computer or any software, it will tell you voltage, real-time draw, estimated battery time remaining, number of power interventions, etc.

I plan to use this in all the installations that don't have a traditional computer.
 

Stinker

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Thanks. The UPS is a Conext 900 AVR which originally had an APS battery installed. After a full charge the runs times are 3.6 min. to the urgent beeping (low battery) and 5.3 minutes to cutoff. I suppose that is a reasonable drain. A longer run time would require a larger UPS and this one is heavy enough with one >9 lb. battery. ;) I have another UPS of the same model trapped behind a TV. When it needs a new battery I will have to buy a new TV for the living room. :)

As Fugishi mentioned above, I'd rather replace the battery than the entire unit, since the store takes the old battery for recycling.

FYI, My Conext CNB950 just went belly-up. According to tech support it's an internal fault in the unit (not the battery). It's about 3-years old. I think the battery is fine only because a voltmeter says it's at 12V.

Anyway, it takes an APC RBC32 big battery pack. You're welcome to have it for free if you want to pay the shipping cost. I'm going to just trash the UPS housing.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16842101197

Stinker
 

ddrueding

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The APC software allows me to set when the UPS will intervene, but the narrowest voltage range it will let me select is 88-138v. Is that really OK? I would have set it closer to 95-125 if I could...
 

Handruin

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That range might be fine assuming your APC supports the automatic voltage regulation (AVR) feature? Perhaps the range you're selecting is when it will change over to the battery?
 

sechs

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Just thought I'd throw out a recommendation for the APC Back-UPS RS LCD series (available in 700, 1300, 1500).
Actually, there's the RS LCD series, available in a range of at least 1100VA to 1500VA (but all appear to use the same battery); and the RS LCD Master Control series apparently available in a range of 450VA to 800VA, and, presumably, also share a battery. Other than size and some cosmetic difference, it's not clear to me what "master control" connotes.

In any case, I have experience with the former, and the features are useful, especially where you can't attach a computer to the UPS.
 

sechs

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The APC software allows me to set when the UPS will intervene, but the narrowest voltage range it will let me select is 88-138v.
Not that this is really getting me anything, but I can choose 88-136v. What software are you using?
 

time

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That range might be fine assuming your APC supports the automatic voltage regulation (AVR) feature? Perhaps the range you're selecting is when it will change over to the battery?

It says it's line-interactive, and the APC website lists AVR, so yeah. I don't know why it's even configurable, just another pointless bell or whistle.
 

Pradeep

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Actually, there's the RS LCD series, available in a range of at least 1100VA to 1500VA (but all appear to use the same battery); and the RS LCD Master Control series apparently available in a range of 450VA to 800VA, and, presumably, also share a battery. Other than size and some cosmetic difference, it's not clear to me what "master control" connotes.

In any case, I have experience with the former, and the features are useful, especially where you can't attach a computer to the UPS.

Master Control is where you have one plug that is connected to your PC. When that load is turned off, up to three "Master Control" designated sockets will also turn off. It's like a relay power off for your printers and stuff to stop them sucking phantom power. The sockets should have a white line around them.
 

Stinker

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My RS 700 LCD will be here on Monday/Tuesday. $75 from Staples.com shipped free with a $25 coupon I got on eBay for $1.50. If anyone wants me to check anything on it when I get it, let me know.
 

Stinker

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Is there a version of Powerchute that adds any value on top of what Win7 Pro x64 will do out of the box? I have not tried any of the Powerchute software yet....

Thanks,
Stinker
 

ddrueding

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It allows you to monitor a bunch of the stuff you have on the RS' screen on your PC. It also has a "shut down when there are x minutes left of battery" which I assume requires the software.
 

Handruin

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I only use the windows 7 to manage my APC. I have it set my PC to standby when it's been on battery for a couple minutes. I figure it'll still consume a little power, but hardly enough to run down the battery inside the APC.
 

LunarMist

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FYI, My Conext CNB950 just went belly-up. According to tech support it's an internal fault in the unit (not the battery). It's about 3-years old. I think the battery is fine only because a voltmeter says it's at 12V.

Anyway, it takes an APC RBC32 big battery pack. You're welcome to have it for free if you want to pay the shipping cost. I'm going to just trash the UPS housing.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16842101197

Stinker

Thanks, but I got new batteries a while ago. One of the units is in use and the other is standing by for when one UPS or another conks out.
 

LunarMist

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Just thought I'd throw out a recommendation for the APC Back-UPS RS LCD series (available in 700, 1300, 1500). I just got one for the coffin at home. It basically has a Kill-A-Watt (and then some) built in. Without a connection to a computer or any software, it will tell you voltage, real-time draw, estimated battery time remaining, number of power interventions, etc.

I plan to use this in all the installations that don't have a traditional computer.

I have two of the XS LCD 1300 units. How is the RS different from the XS LCD? The features you mentioned are similar. I thought the RS was just an update of the XS.
 

Stereodude

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Is there a version of Powerchute that adds any value on top of what Win7 Pro x64 will do out of the box? I have not tried any of the Powerchute software yet....

Thanks,
Stinker
That depends on your UPS. Some APC's have very little capability others have extensive controls.
 

LunarMist

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I tried the parachute software, but it was not necessary. All the same settings can be accessed through the front panel switches. It might be more useful in a remote location. The OS control is enough for me.
 

Stereodude

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I guess you guys don't have APC Smart-UPS units. They have a ton of options to set through the software interface.
 
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