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That is still outside the car. My bike is already too valuable to leave out there (and getting more valuable all the time). I ride every day somewhere, and once I start competing will be travelling over most of central California. Because of all the riding, having the bike in the car at all...

Nothing was cut, split, or harmed in any way. Everything I've done is completely reversible, probably within an hour. A total of 4 bolts were removed, and I even have the torque spec for putting them back in. That said, I've basically made the choice that this will be my vehicle for some time...

Had some fun over the weekend. The roof rack with my bikes on it isn't as secure as I would like, plus wind noise and measurably worse fuel economy. I decided to put the bikes in the car. After pulling all the wheels and folding down the rear seat they fit, but barely and stuff is...

Or plug the gaping holes in the code that let a (fundamentally) American company to pull crap like this.

Yup. Don't bother calling Supermicro, those turds are useless.

Indeed. And turnover of your inventory is never a bad thing.

Even if you get the extra length by removing drive bays or such, that board is also (barely) too wide, and I don't see a way around that.

If this won't get Merc outside, nothing will.

I've gone through 2 kill-a-watts and the numbers can't be right. <7W idle and ~10W max load. I'll try to find something more accurate for these small loads.

Windows Experience Index: CPU: 6.9 RAM: 7.4 GPU: 5.2 Game: 5.8 HDD: 7.7

This makes perfect sense to me; the smaller the screen the more uncomfortable the experience. At the same time, the smaller the tablet the more often you have it available for that emergency lookup of MTG oracle rulings.

IIRC, higher performance Mustangs of the past have had IRS to good effect. It'll probably hurt the drag racing scene, but the car will be much better for it.

Primary viewing is from the front (the bed) with secondary viewing from the tub being a much lower priority. The screen itself will be in line with the foot of the bed, so would be too intrusive to leave down all the time.

I hear the next generation will be entering the 20th century with independent rear suspension.

I just installed PowerDVD 12 on an HTPC. I hate it, but Media Player Classic Homecinema won't correctly decode stereoscopic (3D) .MKV files to the projector.

Mr. Steed and Mrs. Peel could have made an awesome porn...

That is very funny. It reminds me of a musing from earlier in the month. The cover of this months Cosmopolitan magazine declares that it is "The Sex Issue". Now I'm confused on what the others were about.

mmm.....S6 Avant....

The projector will be buried in one of the far walls. The screen needs to be able to retract into the ceiling with an electric motor. This would be difficult with a pair of HDTVs. The closest I've found so far is this one. It is larger than I was planning, but I could make it fit.

I have a(nother) special need. 1. Rear projection 2. Electrically lowered 3. Ceiling recessed 4. Tab tensioned 5. About 55" I'm having a hard time finding a screen that matches these requirements. I'm pretty sure I need the tab tensioning as it will be in the middle of a room, ideally viewable...

Just finishing a significantly low-voltage build: Intel i3-2120T Gigabyte GA-Z77X-D3H OCZ NOC-MSATA120G 2x Crucial 4GB 1.35v PicoPSU 65W Still getting Win7 installed on it, but next chance I have I'll get it on a Kill-a-watt.

The main things I'm interested in is light levels, colors, heat dissipation, etc. so I do need to get the same stuff that I plan on deploying elsewhere. Though that does look like a cool (and ridiculously cheap) system.

Alright...getting ready to order some parts and play. (1) 24v 5A power supply (2) A009-D-V-2100 BuckBlock 2100mA power modules (14) Nichia NVSL219AT-H1 4500K, 92 CRI, B10 Bin - 20mm Star (1) Heatsink - 4.230" wide x 1" high x 48" long (1) Arctic Silver Thermal Epoxy Well under $250 total...no...

Nevermind...quite a bit more money....and less flexible...

What are people's thoughts on the LuxDrive LuxStrip products? Seems to save quite a bit of time/effort for not much more money?

And the other interesting bit. I just got an email saying that my Google Apps domains will be switching the Docs list to Drive soon...many of those Docs are permissions based. Of course, I don't believe that they will publish this stuff, but it's annoying that they think they might want to.

I thought I remembered it being 50V. In either case, everything I'm doing is at or below 24V.

That is one of the reasons I got cans that are designed to be surrounded by insulation, and then surrounded them with insulation. Most of the heat goes down (it can noticeably heat whatever is underneath it within minutes).

They can publish my encrypted files all they like ;)

Sorry to hear that, Bozo. Ten years is a long time to have a friend.

I don't mean to derail tagger's thread, but I'm still missing some chunks of knowledge. (Thanks for your patience!) 120v AC -> Light Switch -> 12v Power Supply -> LED DC-DC driver -> LEDs Is that right? If I don't need dimming, what are the most important factors for the driver? How to compute...

An airline has only lost my bag once. It ended up in Pyongyang, and was a bugger to get back.

Now you are being redundant.

So which LED ballasts are you liking at the moment?

How about the one offered by VMWare themselves?

Mine laughed as well, but she argued that the line isn't far enough to the left ;) Edit: Also, that the titles should be "hers" and "ours".

Good to have you back jtr, and I'm glad everyone is alright. Without dimming, what are the opinions of putting the switch on the 12v side or using normal household switches on the 110v side and having to use separate transformers for each load?

S7 is my next dream...another couple years perhaps. That 4 liter twin turbo sounds awesome.

I was actually going to comment that getting the S4 ordered first was a very wise move.

Awesome! Congrats.

Thanks for that! Didn't even know it was an option. I found a more detailed (though less grammatically accurate) writeup here.

My '66 Sprite Midget had no seatbelts at all, there was no option. I installed a lap belt the first week I had the car. I wasn't safety minded at the time, but the seats weren't very supportive, and the door would occasionally open on it's own mid-corner.

There is quite a bit of sand near the beach (go figure) and the field roads are always dirty.

I'm pretty sure this is why the insurance companies are keen to fix the chip without charge; it saves them the windshield replacement later on. Of course, my windshield (and every windshield with >25k miles) is completely covered in tiny pits that bug me to no end. I wouldn't mind replacing the...

Yeah. A number of my clients are 2-4 users. In some of these cases the server is in fact just a workstation, and the backup goes to the other workstation.

That is awesome.

Nope. In fact, many are still running the Win7 that came on the (usually Lenovo) workstation that I'm using. Most of my smaller clients aren't even on a domain anymore now that I don't use Exchange/Outlook.

It also seems that the unit was designed for 700mA (most of the graphs use that as a reference), but efficiency numbers (like 100lm/W) are typically at much lower power settings.

On the PDF under "Thermal Design" it shows that ambient can be 70C so long as the thermal resistance between the LED junction and ambient is kept below 7°C/W. Of course keeping it lower than that will help the lifespan of the LEDs, but that is a lot of headroom. Also, under the "Lumen...

Tonight's ride was also interesting. Headed out into the now closed Fort Ord military base to take advantage of hilly roads closed to vehicle traffic, but my headlight battery died 10 miles from home. That was a nervous ride back.