Stereodude
Not really a
The one on the top of the camera is though. :nono:The LCD patterns are not limited to a specific number of segments or even linear shapes. But you know that.
Only because Canon is lazy/cheap. I never noticed this before because the 1D/s series has 3 1/2 digits and I only use RAW. The high count could easily be exceeded by jpg users though. :cat:
ddrueding
Fixture
I'm looking for a 0-60 for photography cheat sheet. A number of the people I know have recently purchased DSLRs after seeing me shoot mine. They know nothing, and I know barely more.
1-2 pages starting with focal length and FOV, going through ISO and shutter speed, and probably ending with aperture and DOF.
Not looking for composition, technique, or more complex tricks (yet).
If it doesn't exist, I'll need to put something together. Any suggestions?
1-2 pages starting with focal length and FOV, going through ISO and shutter speed, and probably ending with aperture and DOF.
Not looking for composition, technique, or more complex tricks (yet).
If it doesn't exist, I'll need to put something together. Any suggestions?
There are numerous books out there. Look up Bryan Peterson. The ones on seeing creatively and understanding exposure are a good start. There are plenty of basic hardware guides on the web, but that is not where the younger generation suffer.
ddrueding
Fixture
Most of these guys are in their 50s, if that counts as the younger generation
I'm not going to be able to teach them the creative/composition side of things because I don't know it. What I can show them is how to take a picture of what they want. How to get their desired target in the frame, expose it properly without excessive camera shake, and possibly control their DOF to only get their desired result.
Depending on how that works out, we may expand to stuff that I understand less, like what makes a good picture.
I'm not going to be able to teach them the creative/composition side of things because I don't know it. What I can show them is how to take a picture of what they want. How to get their desired target in the frame, expose it properly without excessive camera shake, and possibly control their DOF to only get their desired result.
Depending on how that works out, we may expand to stuff that I understand less, like what makes a good picture.
e_dawg
Storage Freak
Hmm, e_dawg said in Jan '09 he was getting married in the summer, so we can conclude the marriage is the reason he no longer posts on SR
Yes, that, along with changing jobs, looking for and moving into a new house, having a baby girl, taking care of said baby girl, working on the house and garden, and being swamped at work.
ddrueding
Fixture
e_dawg
Storage Freak
Chewy509
Wotty wot wot.
e_dawg, congratulations on all that has happened.
paugie
Storage is cool
yes, congratulations, especially on the very cute baby girl!
e_dawg
Storage Freak
Thanks guys.
LM, were you asking me about what was used for the baby pics? If so, first 4 were Nikon D700 + AF-S 60/2.8G macro and last 3 were Sony A700 + Sony 30/2.8 DT macro.
LM, were you asking me about what was used for the baby pics? If so, first 4 were Nikon D700 + AF-S 60/2.8G macro and last 3 were Sony A700 + Sony 30/2.8 DT macro.
Gilbo
Storage is cool
Congratulations e_dawg! I may be going down the same road sooner rather than later.
AF-S 60/2.8G macro is really nice.
e_dawg
Storage Freak
Yep. Optically, it's one of the very best lenses i have ever used. Right up there with the Olympus ZD 35-100/2 and Sony Zeiss ZA 135/1.8. With these 3 lenses, you can tell even from the first few shots that they are simply a cut above... (IMHO).
ddrueding
Fixture
ddrueding
Fixture
Curse Best Buy for having impressive inventory...another toy.
ddrueding
Fixture
Any tips for managing DOF in macro? There doesn't seem to be much of it.
Useful DOF is limited by physics. There are numerous calculators out there or create an Excel template. Below around f/8 diffraction limits per pixel resolution of the 7D. Smaller apertures may be acceptable depending on final magnification, i.e. print size and viewing distance. DOF can be artificially increased though image stacking, which is best done by either moving the subject or camera on a precision (motorized) rack. There are also techniques for oblique sub-mm plane lighting, but I don't belive they are as popular now that image stacking is straightforward.
That is an odd choice for macro on the 7D. I assume it for for wildlife, not best IQ.
e_dawg
Storage Freak
Yeah, not a big fan of high-mag macro because of that (not to mention lighting issues as well). Even 1:1 is too much for me. I'd never even consider using a TC on top of that. I prefer ballpark around 1:3 generally and try to use f/11-16. 1:2 is probably the closest to "true" macro that i shoot. Focus stacking as LM pointed out is generally the best solution, but i find it to be a PITA myself, so i avoid it.
ddrueding
Fixture
Thanks for the tips. I got the TC (and the lens, for that matter) because it gives me a capability I didn't have before. Not sure what I'll use it for, or even if I'll like it, but now I can find out.
What are your favorite macro subjects and techniques?
What are your favorite macro subjects and techniques?
e_dawg
Storage Freak
To be honest, I'm not a big fan of macro due to the tedium and time consuming nature. Don't have much time or energy for that anymore. My favourite "technique" would be avoiding macro situations altogether ... but if i had to do it, i would probably consider the following:
1. A camera with good live-view and magnified MF assist capability with a tilt/swivel LCD, MLU (or a mirrorless camera), and remote release
2. Good Tripod/head combo, and ideally, a focusing rail, too
3. Ring light or multi-strobe lighting setup, reflectors, diffusion screens / softboxes, stands & clamps
4. Focus stacking program
5. Lots of patience
... but if i had to do it, i would probably consider the following:1. A camera with good live-view and magnified MF assist capability with a tilt/swivel LCD, MLU (or a mirrorless camera), and remote release
2. Good Tripod/head combo, and ideally, a focusing rail, too
3. Ring light or multi-strobe lighting setup, reflectors, diffusion screens / softboxes, stands & clamps
4. Focus stacking program
5. Lots of patience
ddrueding
Fixture
I'd read that the IQ on this was roughly equivalent to the 100mm, and I liked the thought of having more working distance.
ddrueding
Fixture
Someone actually wanted a giant quarter printed very large (48"x48"). I've uploaded a smaller (100MP version).
Fun project.
Fun project.
Stereodude
Not really a
You should have started with a better looking coin.
How many images did you stitch to generate that?
How many images did you stitch to generate that?
ddrueding
Fixture
You should have started with a better looking coin.
How many images did you stitch to generate that?
I actually like the beat-up look. Otherwise it would look fake. I first tried with a dirtier one, but then it gets gross at that magnification.
I was manipulating the coin by hand, so it took more shots than it should. I think 27 was the final number.
ddrueding
Fixture
First time working with a model*
*in the loosest terms. There was a human, I gave her directions, she was inconvenienced but did it anyway. I think that counts.
*in the loosest terms. There was a human, I gave her directions, she was inconvenienced but did it anyway. I think that counts.
mubs
Storage? I am Storage!
Most everything looks crummy magnified.
mubs
Storage? I am Storage!
Yeow!
ddrueding
Fixture
Yeow to which part?
blakerwry
Storage? I am Storage!
A buddy showed me that you can achieve similar results by removing the lens and reversing its orientation to the camera.... like looking through a telescope backwards.
I've got some neat shots that way -
http://blakerwry.zenfolio.com/p909310947 (direct from camera)
Though it's very tedious and you lose Exif data when your camera doesn't have a lens attached... not to mention concerns about damage due to dust/debris.
I've also used a cheap magnifying lens filter attachment to get interesting results. http://blakerwry.zenfolio.com/p973937502/h14b5d675#h14b5d675
blakerwry
Storage? I am Storage!
I can clearly see your red Canon EOS strap in the reflection. Nice!
ddrueding
Fixture
I've done the lens reversing thing before, and even looked at getting one of the reversing rings designed for it, but for running around in the field, it doesn't really work for me.
That shot was done with the subject on the floor, and the camera pointing straight down (only way to keep the eye in the focal plane). I tried putting a light box over the tripod, camera, and head, but that just highlighted the camera even more. I'm assembling something that will allow just the lens to poke through, though it will be pretty claustrophobic.
That shot was done with the subject on the floor, and the camera pointing straight down (only way to keep the eye in the focal plane). I tried putting a light box over the tripod, camera, and head, but that just highlighted the camera even more. I'm assembling something that will allow just the lens to poke through, though it will be pretty claustrophobic.
mubs
Storage? I am Storage!
To an extreme closeup of an eye!
Unfortunately many of the newer photographers don’t learn the basics of lighting. A semester of that would be a really good idea before starting in with macros, which are often at least as challenging.
I've used a multitude of ring rings and twin lights from the 1960s explosion-loud, AC-powered poppers to the MT-24 EX. Only rarely are they the best choice alone. Usually on-camera lighting is fill or occasionally key with other lights in softboxes. The longer macros in particular are not a good choice for most on-lens only flash use due to the narrow incident angle. 2-3 monolights on the background and modeling the subject (along with on camera/lens lights for closest subjects) are my preference for studio macros. Despite the advances of digital and TTL, fully controllable strobes and a good flash meter are very useful in setting up ahead of time and maintaining consistent results from frame to frame and session to session. For indoor work it is desirable to work tethered so that the results can be seen in real time before breaking down the setup and without disturbing the precise camera position.
For field work in the 80s and 90s I built a 2-headed TTL Nikon flash that was used on a bracket, sometimes in conjunction with a second on-camera flash. The two heads were flexible enough to bend into various shooting positions. I think there are probably commercial flashes of that type now. The old Vivitar 90-180 macro was nice for changing magnification without having to move the lights around. I had the 55/2.8, 60/2.8 AF, and a couple of 105 micro Nikkors (MF and AF-D) for various purposes over the years. The Nikkor 70-180 was just great for the macro range, but a little late for my opportunities had moved on. They are now hard to find and more costly used than when new in 1998.
Canon and their 120MP APS-H sensor?! That's a lot of image to have to post process.
Stereodude
Not really a
Oh perfect, that's just what we need. A sensor that's diffraction limited at f1.0.