ddrueding
Fixture
Ah, but if we're watching a movie, the lights are off So long as I have enough spare juice to run the popcorn machine, we're good.Your home theater sounds like it would draw 100A :wink:
Ah, but if we're watching a movie, the lights are off So long as I have enough spare juice to run the popcorn machine, we're good.Your home theater sounds like it would draw 100A :wink:
My HT might draw 100A, but his... Highly unlikely! :bglaugh:Your home theater sounds like it would draw 100A :wink:
Incidentally, with so many houses here built 50, 60, even 80 years ago, and never upgraded, inspectors have better things to worry about than people doing their own wiring. In most cases, DIY wiring is going to be better than whatever it replaces in these old houses. Pre-1960s houses are especially problematic. They used to use wiring with cloth insulation. After half a century, the insulation just crumbles away, leaving the potential for shorts. Not only that, but many old houses are wired with half the circuits of one breaker. I suppose this was OK in the 1950s when all you had were a few lights in each room, but not now. It took years to get the wiring in my parent's house in order. I added lots of outlets, put existing ones on their own circuits, added switches and ceiling boxes for light fixtures, added outdoor outlets, and so forth. I dread to think what it all would have cost having an electrician do it. Besides that, they probably would have made a mess breaking up walls to do it in the least time.
The fire department looks quite favorably at having a master switch on the outside. So much so that my homeowners insurance gets reduced.
200A is the standard now, but 100A is still the code minimum, and was considered enough in 1960.
My parents house was built in the mid 70's and they don't have a master breaker.
You know... the home of municipalities that won't even give a DIY'ers a permit to protect their union brotherhood buddies who are in the trades.
Hey, it's true. I've read the stories on AVSforum from people trying to DIY their theater project, but are unable to get a permit because they're not a contractor or a trades person. This only seems to happen in the north east.Spoken like a true idealogue.
A wall with the "goop" sprayed in between the studs will be neither waterproof or airtight, and it won't stop bugs entering your house. That was my point.
Ah, thanks, that all makes sense now. I can see why others thought your 100A supply a bit small, a 40A cooktop could in theory take 80% of your capacity!
So I assume that a standard 110V circuit is rated at 15A? And that explains why Stereodude's bass amps are limited to 1200W output each?
Presumably, your electric kettles are not exactly speed demons and a portable induction cooker would be limited to about 1500W or so?
The amps are rated for 2400W each, but they have a 15A plug on the end of them. They can deliver 2400W, but obviously will have issues with popping breakers if you were to try to reproduce sine waves with normal content that has a crest factor it's not an issue. I will be connecting each one to it's own 20A circuit. Most circuits in a house are 15A because the builders are to cheap to run 12ga wire unless they have to.And that explains why Stereodude's bass amps are limited to 1200W output each?
Usually they have an internal circuit breaker that will trip if you're pushing them too hard for too long. They also can pull more than 20A, but they do so in short transients that won't pop breakers.http://www.crownaudio.com/amp_htm/ampinfo.htm#b02
You can see the issues that arise in the bigger amps, I can't figure out how they get UL listing if they can draw more than 20A at 110V, why it wouldn't be a 220V model.
My subsequent research on this indicates that it's 200A of split phase 240V, so there's really 400A total of 120V power available in the house, although no leg of the split phase 240V can exceed 200A. So that means my 200A service is 4x what ddrueding has.FWIW, I have a single 200A breaker in my electrical panel. However, I'm not sure if that's 200A on each phase of the split phase 240V, or 100A on each phase.
It's pretty large. It's maybe 1.5"w x .75" thick. I'm not sure on the conductor count or configuration. I'll have to pay attention next time I have the cover off.The feed coming into your house must use massive wires.
http://www.abc.net.au/news/stories/2010/09/03/3002314.htm
Looks like it's going to go Labor.
LOL at Little Johnny Howard hyping up the left wing conspiracy. In the end a 10 billion dollar Liberal porkie pie sees them come undone.
Not to talk too much about politics, but I'm glad it's over and done with.Yes, it finally went to the Australian Labor Party, after 17 days without an official government (the Prime Minister role continues until terminated, not so sure about the other ministers).
Pretty spot on with the left-right.Do you think I was fair with the political compasses? I don't put much stock in wings myself, but they're something that people can at least get a handle on.
Newegg said:You spoke and we listened! We're now testing new hard drive packaging in our CA warehouse location.
What do you think? Any other suggestions? Our Logistics team would love to hear your comments & feedback!
Great news to me! At least they finally acknowledged the problem.I know most of you don't use facebook, but I follow Newegg and they've reported that they're listening to their customers on the poor OEM hard drive packing techniques and are trying new methods. Attached are pictures that they've posted of the new hard drive packaging they may be using soon from the CA.
I don't understand why anyone is on facebook.